Room temp would be my guess. Otherwise it would of been in different packaging.

 

Where exactly is the petcock location? 7 gallons of coolant will drain out? Did you do multiple flushes?

 

The petcock is on the drivers side on the radiater, you can reach it thru the wheel well if I remember correctly. Yea there is alot of coolant in there. I bought four gallons and have about 3/4 of one left.

 

Did you notice the 3-way instructions didn't match up properly?
For example the end pad is purple.
That's clearly the nitrite test which isn't what the instructions state.
It appears they have the nitrite and freezepoint pads backwards.

 

Ya, the instructions sucked. The pads are reversed too. I figured it out, but doing the test just reassured my $75 investment vs. the dealer trying to figure it out.

 

Ok, had to verify it wasn't just me!

My contamination test passed but my results point me to step E which is flushing the coolant system for the 3-way test.

The Molybdate test put my results at row 0 and since the Nitrite test result was dark purple, I read the graph as 3.2 or 3,200 PPM (row 0 lined up with row H).
Step B states if > 300 PPM refer to step E.
Freezepoint is also at 30% which results in correcting the coolant strength concentration.

15,330 miles. This is the first time I've ever tested coolant in a diesel engine so I really don't know what I'm doing.
I do know 3,200 PPM sure is greater than 300 PPM.
Either way it appears I'll be at my dealer next week to see what they say. This should be fun.

 

Got mine tested yesterday. Warning appeared at around 12,500 miles. The service manager wasn't sure if the test kit had arrived and so checked with the diesel tech about it. It had arrived, so the diesel tech opened it up and used it on my truck. I was told that a few others had come in with the check coolant additive reminder but the kit had not been available, so I was the first one tested at my dealership. He checked the main loop and was getting ready to close things up when I asked about the secondary loop. He then checked that one too. He told me both checked good. He reset the warning light for me, with the manager looking over his shoulder.

He also told me he had not worked on any 6.7s so far. No problems reported to his knowledge. He was of the opinion that the engineers had done a good job designing and building this truck.

 

I read through the TSB that is linked from one of the pages, it states "DO NOT COLLECT FROM THE COOLANT RECOVERY OR OVERFLOW SYSTEM. ... Collect coolant sample from the radiator or petcock."

That brings up the question, where does one gain access to the primary and secondary cooling systems to collect a sample? I can't find anything that looks like a radiator cap. The one that does look like a radiator cap, passenger side top of radiator, is actually the pressure relief cap for the secondary cooling system degas bottle. Are there pet***** somewhere?

Related, how does one fill these cooling systems? Through the degas bottles?

Thanks!

Steve
~

 

Let me get this straight. The test kit is 75.00 and can do many tests but,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,it expires in about 18 months?????
Looks to me like it's a waste of money as it may tell you that the coolant needs changing anyways.

Probably be ahead of the game to just skip the kit and change the coolant about every 18 months.

 

When I had mine checked at the dealer the diesel mechanic took his sample right out of the coolant overflow jug. I also bought a test kit from the dealer that will do 4 tests. Cost: $5.95

 

Lexustbs, your experience is spot on (wrong coolant added, not maintaining, etc...)

Condition of coolant on a diesel engine is critical...with the higher compression of a diesel certain "vibrations" cause cavitation at the liner to coolant interface resulting in air bubbles which then collaspe and the coolant hits the liner like a hammer causing cavitation (think WWII and depth charges blowing up submarines...it wasn't the explosive that damage the sub...it was the caviation of water or air pocket created by the explosion around the sub which quickly collasped with water breaking the sub apart).

The various chemicals in the coolant eliminates this "cavitation" by keeping the liner to coolant interface "wet". The chemicals also minimize "electrolysis" and keep various silicates in suspension (note: adding too much additive will eventually lead to saturation and fallout). There are other benefits as well.

My personal opinion is that the coolant should be good to the 60,000 under severe service and 100,000 under normal use (assuming these happen within 3-5 years).

I haven't researched the Ford OEM coolant to know if it is the traditional Ethylene-Glycol (poisioness), which I doubt, or Propolyene-Glycol or LLC (long life coolant) which I'm guessing it is (Propolyene-Glycol is "environmentally safe" as it breaks down in the open).

That is about the extent of my knowledge without digging up my notes.

Brian

 

Probably better go ahead and use your kit now. It appears that your dealer did it wrong.
I also read that there are two cooling systems that need to be tested seperatly.

"DO NOT COLLECT FROM THE COOLANT RECOVERY OR OVERFLOW SYSTEM. ... Collect coolant sample from the radiator or petcock."
That is from the instructions. I believe that what everyone refers to as a overflow tank is actually known as a degass (sp)tank.


I'm gonna go out on a limb here on how I think it may work.

Most the newer coolants do not play well with oxygen, that is why one cannot run an open system. (remember the old days when a leaking system could be limped along for a looong time by partially opening the cap and not allowing pressure to build?)

So the degass tank came along which is part ot the pressurized system but necessarily allows for limited outside air exchange. Primarily when first filled until the system finds it's balance.

So testing at this location may show skewed results?

This kind of the idea I pieced together from bits and pieces of info.

Anyone know excactly what the theory of operation ?

 

I started getting the check coolant additive message about a week ago. I have almost 13,000 miles on my truck.

I went to the dealer today, (parts dept.), and mentioned the message thing. I asked for a test kit, a gallon of Speciality Orange, an oil filter, and a case of Motorcraft oil. The guy behind the counter said they can't sell the test kits, I have to have the service dept. perform the test. When I told him I could buy the kits on the internet, he said, "just a minute.", and disappeared around the corner. He comes back shortly and says he can sell me a test kit that is good for 10 tests for $100. I say no thanks.

Then the service writer gal comes around the corner, (a different corner), and I mention to her about the message. She says bring it in Monday morning and they will test it. I naturally queried, "how much?" To which she replied, "nothing, it's part of your warranty." What? Huh? UHHH, Hmmm, Ok, what time Monday?

Here's the good part. She tells me that FOMOCO doesn't have the additive yet. They've been working on it but it's still not ready. So, in my own inquisitive, **** retentive little way, I asked her what if my coolant is out of sorts. Then the words we all like to hear come forth from her lips, "Well then we will have to flush your engine coolant for free."

Does that sound right? Has anyone actually seen the additives or used them? I don't expect there to be any issues with the factory recipe, so I doubt I'll be getting any free flush. It just seems odd that FOMOCO wouldn't have the required additive if needed. Just wondering.

 

I bought the additive at my dealer....

 

I tried to drain out a little to do this test from the rad drain today but I could not get anything to come out. The valve turns 1/4 turn counter clockwise and that is it. Am I missing something?