Nobody thinks anymore, talking about the PO, not you. What I would do it get some oil resistant RTV, some self tapping sheet metal screws, and a piece of thin sheet metal. Then drill some holes in the metal plate, put a bead of rtv around it and around the screw holes and fasten the plate over the hole with the screws. That should stop your leak, just make sure you get the right RTV and don't strip the screws.
1992 Ford F-250 XLT 7.3 IDI 115K, 4X4, ZF5 S5-47 w/ 12inch clutch and SMF, Banks wastegated sidewinder turbo, 6637, BB injectors, rebuilt IP w/ fuel turned up, 3 inch DP, custom 3.5 inch exhaust with 4 inch tailpipe, 285/75/16R Yokohama's on PSD alcoas. Rebuilt D60 w/ firestone airbags. 10.25 sterling rear w/4:10's LS, Three pillar gauges with pyrometer, boost, and transmission temperature. Onboard air w/ 400C Viair. 16K rated B&W trailer hitch. Sound-tracker CB w/ 4 ft firestik.
Coming from a sheet metal insulator, you dont gotta drill rivets out. I can take one out with my leatherman in under a minute. But either way will work. You can also just try welding with a buzz box welder on the pan itself....take it off and clean it up really nice then weld it shut.
Quintin Aune BigBs'r #21 & Off. Slackmaster #31
1984 F250 6.9l N/A 212,000 miles Wrecked 26 Oct 11
1990 F-350 7.3l IDI ZF-5(sold)
2006 Ford Expedition 5.4l Eddie Bauer
2006 F-250 5.4l Triton V8 129k Loaded XL
I would weld it. If you don't have a welder or know someone who does, take it to a machine shop or muffler shop and they should be able to help you out for a small fee. That's the only permanent solution I can think of short of replacing the pan. I think any gasket maker will eventually leak.
The trick is to make sure the surface that you are JB welding is clean and DRY. You need to drain the oil so the level in the pan is below the hole. clean it with brake cleaner and sand all the paint and rust off of the area. JB weld takes forever to set up, so get the JB Quick. After you clean the area with brake cleaner and dry it off make sure the area around the hole doesnt get wet from oil seaping out. I have fixed a couple oil pans on power strokes this way, one a year ago and one 3-4 years ago. Both are still holding.
92 F250 4x4 7.3idi zf5 3.55's Meyer plow
86 F350 2wd C&C Dump 351w C6 4.10s Meyer plow
The rest of my signature changed as to not offend some liberal crybaby.
^^X2 what he said. Drain your oil, and get that stuff good and clean and use some JB quick. I think JB also makes a gas tank patch type putty that might be more petroleum friendly if thats something you want to try.
2000 F-150 4.2L V6 2wd..........Daily Driver for now.....
1993 F-250HD 7.3L IDI E4OD 370,000 miles. Straight pipe exhaust. IP turned up 1.5 flats with a Diesel Recon pyro. 0-60 in 11 seconds.
Well my rig's a little old,but that don't mean she's slow. There's a flame from her stack, And the smoke's rolling black as coal!
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford® is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.