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Old 05-04-2011, 12:04 PM
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Milwaukee1979F150 Milwaukee1979F150 is offline
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Fix oil pan leak how

Well it 87 f250 6.9L

PO punch hole with screwdrive though oil filter and end in oil pan

He patch with quiksteel it don't stop leak. It would drip everyday. 2-3 weeks I pour 1 gal oil for every 1000 miles.


Got tired of see oil stain so I remove and sand put metal screw in it. Patch with TONS of JB weld. Well it doesn't work. All it does make JB weld not harden it soft you could poke.

What can I patch with something that will work with oil and diesel? I don't think JB weld like oil or diesel they become soft goofy. Won't dry.
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Old 05-04-2011, 12:14 PM
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Nobody thinks anymore, talking about the PO, not you. What I would do it get some oil resistant RTV, some self tapping sheet metal screws, and a piece of thin sheet metal. Then drill some holes in the metal plate, put a bead of rtv around it and around the screw holes and fasten the plate over the hole with the screws. That should stop your leak, just make sure you get the right RTV and don't strip the screws.
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Old 05-04-2011, 12:35 PM
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What about rivet? Not full all way to snap off. Just gently pull then cut stem


That will sound work when I look at. I thought there no way to stop without weld it.



what kind RTV you prefer?

Click the image to open in full size.
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Currently drive 2000 f350 7.3L XL 4wd auto. mpg vary 15-17.

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Old 05-04-2011, 02:06 PM
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Ya, that stuff looks good. I wouldn't do a rivet cause screws you can always adjust if it starts to leak in 100K miles. You wont want to have to drill a rivet out to fix it.
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1992 Ford F-250 XLT 7.3 IDI 115K, 4X4, ZF5 S5-47 w/ 12inch clutch and SMF, Banks wastegated sidewinder turbo, 6637, BB injectors, rebuilt IP w/ fuel turned up, 3 inch DP, custom 3.5 inch exhaust with 4 inch tailpipe, 285/75/16R Yokohama's on PSD alcoas. Rebuilt D60 w/ firestone airbags. 10.25 sterling rear w/4:10's LS, Three pillar gauges with pyrometer, boost, and transmission temperature. Onboard air w/ 400C Viair. 16K rated B&W trailer hitch. Sound-tracker CB w/ 4 ft firestik.
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Old 05-04-2011, 04:31 PM
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Coming from a sheet metal insulator, you dont gotta drill rivets out. I can take one out with my leatherman in under a minute. But either way will work. You can also just try welding with a buzz box welder on the pan itself....take it off and clean it up really nice then weld it shut.
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Old 05-04-2011, 04:35 PM
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It all depends on what kind/size rivets you use.
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Old 05-04-2011, 04:47 PM
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Well...I can send anybody who wants rivets that are reliable enough for this kind of job and can be removed with a leatherman lol.
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Old 05-04-2011, 05:10 PM
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I would weld it. If you don't have a welder or know someone who does, take it to a machine shop or muffler shop and they should be able to help you out for a small fee. That's the only permanent solution I can think of short of replacing the pan. I think any gasket maker will eventually leak.
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Old 05-04-2011, 05:25 PM
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A gasket is what seals the oil pan to the engine, they need not weld that, so a gasket is suitable for this application.
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Old 05-04-2011, 05:35 PM
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The trick is to make sure the surface that you are JB welding is clean and DRY. You need to drain the oil so the level in the pan is below the hole. clean it with brake cleaner and sand all the paint and rust off of the area. JB weld takes forever to set up, so get the JB Quick. After you clean the area with brake cleaner and dry it off make sure the area around the hole doesnt get wet from oil seaping out. I have fixed a couple oil pans on power strokes this way, one a year ago and one 3-4 years ago. Both are still holding.
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Old 05-05-2011, 09:06 PM
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^^X2 what he said. Drain your oil, and get that stuff good and clean and use some JB quick. I think JB also makes a gas tank patch type putty that might be more petroleum friendly if thats something you want to try.
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Old 05-05-2011, 09:06 PM
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