2003, 113k miles, completely stock.

 

Spend a lot of money.

 

LOL--that's not entirely true. Fast is one thing reliable is another.

To the OP: I'm sure that you can request some really nasty fast tuning that will make your truck go a LOT faster than you want to drive it on stock parts however it will probably not last very long. As wulfman originally said......spend a LOT of money.....tuning, studs, injectors and turbo and you're easily looking at $6K in parts alone if you do the work yourself. I can easily add to your bill if you'd like more.

 

Roll it down a hill in neutral

 

press the right pedal down farther.

 

long skinny pedal works in mine.

 

Ok, to be serious for a minute, this a broad question. Depends on what you want to do with your truck. It's gonna handle like a truck no matter what you do so I'm assuming your not looking for a "corner burner" Fast and Furious kinda ride (although it might look cool lowered with ground effx and a BIG wing on the back ). I think these trucks are made for pulling long and heavy and they do a great job. Anyway, I guessing when you say faster you are talking about around town power and maybe a stoplight drag race now n then.
If you have been hot rodding a 73 Mustang you can probably turn a wrench and talk lift and duration and CFM but you open the hood of your 6.0 and think WTF?! Well, I can relate to that. I have loved and worked on many muscle cars over the years and modded alot of stuff but that knowledge and skill don't translate to these trucks much. I'll try to share what I've learned and maybe other members will add to it, and correct my info, and spelling and ...stuff. So, you are in the right place. There are guys on here from all different kinds of backgrounds and if you want to split hairs about anything 6.0L someone here knows about it. and can help you on any project.
Cam, headers, four barrel, heads if you got the bucks? that line of thinking don't work well on a 6.0L but a few of the old tricks do still work. For example: Lose some weight. Get all the unnecessary crap out of your truck, Look into lightweight bumpers, fiberglass body parts and unbolting anything that isn't necessary. Theres is also alot of room to fudge on tire size in them big 'ol wheelwells, shorter height can make a noticable (measurable) difference in acceleration. Rear gear ratios are as important as ever, check what you have in the truck now and see what's available. There's lots of threads here about exhaust systems, you'll just have to made up your own mind but I think there are a few extra ponies to be had over the stock system, plus these trucks sound great when they're opened up!
Programing, in my opinion, is the biggest "bang for the buck" improvment, BUT in factory trim this engine is making some damn good touque/horsepower numbers and pushing it too far without the proper prep can break stuff quick. If you get too aggressive with software without engine improvements you get big repair bills (or maybe even a new boat anchor). Do your research before buying a tuner.
Under the hood, the factory air cleaner looks clunky and "truck like" but it flows pretty well so I wouldn't change it right away, if at all. The intake is supposed to be a good piece also but there are aftermarket suppliers if you want to change it (the first time mine's apart I'm gonna check the port match on the intake and exhaust and dust off my die grinder if it ain't right). Aftermarket Turbo's and intercoolers are available from a few sources. the factory turbo does have some lag but once it's spooled up it will make 30-35 lbs, not too shabby. I havent seen anyone ice one down like we did the the little 3.8 Turbo'd Buicks in the 80's but I'm sure it could be done. Several guys here are running upgraded fuel injectors, the factory pieces are ok on a stock truck but the Injectors Ford installed are not the same as International (engine designer) recommended and are somewhat prone to failure, especially if you dont keep your oil changes up. There may be some power gains with the aftermarket injectors in the upper RPM range IF you have the programming/exhaust to go with them. I havent heard of anyone massaging their cylinder heads, but I would think some gains might be made with the standard mods (short-side radius,bowl, guide work) and haven't heard of anyone offering preworked heads for sale. Also, I'm not aware of anyone grinding cams for this application, or selling gear drives, and I'm sure you're aware there's no ignition system so MSD and Accel won't be getting in your pocket on this one. If youre looking to make power the EGR valve delete kits do away with diluting your intake charge with exhaust gasses to reduce emissions (off road only of course) and the EGR cooler is prone to leaking coolant into the intake, many people delete those as well although I understand your '03 is a earlier design that was stronger than the later models. And finally, as a preventative measure install head studs. there is a lot of cylinder pressure and the factory torque to yield bolts commonly stretch when your truck is run hot and hard.
Preventative stuff: If you are going to drive this truck hard, let it warm up completely, the hotter mine is the better it runs. I would suggest doing ALL the services unless you are certain they are up to date and have the records to prove it. Oil and filter, fuel filters (both), trans filters (both), Cooling system and filter (install one if it doesn't have one already), air filter ect. Be sure to use factory filters particularly for oil. There are aftermarket one-piece replacements that have the cap installed when you buy it. stay away from these, the do not fit right and among other problems, can allow oil to drain back into the crankcase that should have lubed the top end of your engine. While you are at the dealer parts counter get a "blue spring" for your fuel pressure regulator. The part# is in many of the threads here.
Finially, I gotta say if you nail the throttle on your truck now and it don't make you grin, check the computer for codes, Fuel quality/pressure, airleaks in the turbo plumbing, brakes dragging, and anything else you can think of...Cuz there's a problem.

 

to start get an SCT tuner. then get exhaust. while your spending money get gauges! then call up ryan casserly or elite diesel or industrial injection for injectors. then get a powermax turbo. once all that is done you need head studs. of course this is if your buying all at once if not head studs is the first thing you need. then delete the egr cooler since you will be running all that big stuff. after that look into an intake and a BTS tranny. best trannies out there by far. itp regulated return and airdog are also needed. ported heads from elite diesel might not be a bad idea. talking alot of money but there ya go. or if not just push the petal to the floor. you said go fast but didnt say how long it takes to get to that "fast" point.

 

It goes "FAST" from the get-go!

 

Thanks for the responses. Thats a rather comprehensive list. Now atleast I have an ida of how much (time AND money ) it takes to go fast!

Not mine... its slow as molasses in the morning! Im looking for FICM, GPCM, injector stiction, and glow-plug issues.

Any other ideas as for why my truck idles rough in the morning (white smoke too) and is SLOW (floor it to clear an intersection) when its about 45-50 degrees out? Thanks in advance!

 

If you wanna go fast....get a vette....this is a truck.

 

check ficm voltage, doubt its glow plugs. could be injector with the white smoke it could be stuck open but i normally would think white smoke as coolant

 

What do you think is fast?

Do you have 4wd? If not, chasing traction sucks.

 

I would start with the FICM check that
how olds the fuel filters/fuel press and have you changed the oil in awhile?
check the oil are you making oil does it smell like diesel???
Have you scanned it for codes??

You might want to consider a www.scangauge.com like 160.00 has 30-40 x-gauges you can program to what you want and get it running right
EOT,ECT,FICM,ICP,IPR,VOLTS,BOOST,MAP And a bunch more

 

I agree about the FICM. I recently replaced both fuel filters and did an oil change. All motorcraft. The HFCM primary filter worried me a little bit though... blue, gunky fluid came out and the drain plug was rusted and half gone

Umm no check engine light, but ran AE on it a little while ago and nothing stood out... but that was then. You guys recommend I check for DTC's again?