Ok so I know everyone on here that has the 300 hates the old log exhaust. I bought everything needed to jack the power up on my old 83 f150 but unfortunately its going to be sold soon. No need to taunt myself with the parts any longer... Let me know if you have interest!

1.) dual plane offenhauser intake
2.) holly 390 4bbl carb
3.) Coolant heated carb spacer (keeps carb from icing in winter)
4.) Comp cam (mild boost, not wild)
5.) New timing gear set with spare thrust plate and key (so you can ready the cam to be installed and do it all in one afternoon)
6.) efi exhaust manifolds and gasket
7.) spare 300-I6 head (so you can pre port the head and drop it on same day)

I'm sure there is more that I'm forgetting but that's all an excellent start to jack up your power! I'll get cam numbers and pics soon!

 

I like the ford 4.9 log exhaust. It works flawlessly, and I pretty much know it will never give me problems.

One of the biggest benefits is higher fuel economy and mpg.

If you want more power, floor the engine all of the time, you'll have as much power as you want.

Maybe spending 2000 to 3000 on parts could get you 10-20 hp on a dynamometer at WOT. What on earth the point of that if your truck works perfectly and forever with stock parts? Speeding tickets, dangerous condition for you and your truck.

 

Are you selling the parts? If so please give me a quote on the log exhaust that came stock.

 

Seriously???? Man I leave for a year and there are people loving on the log exhaust now??? Wtf???

A. 300-i6 can't get out of its own way and has about zero power when compaired to it younger brother the efi 300 that gets just as good mpg and has tons more power.

B. I wash thinking more like $600-$800 for everything I have

C. Installing the 4bbl carb and offy DP doesn't mean you have to floor it and open up the secondaries... Keep your foot out and gas consumption remains about the same, but when your foot goes down you mph goes up... It won't flat line like log exhaust and the single bbl.

 

Log exhaust remains on the 83 with the new owner of truck. I'm selling the offey DP and other power adder parts that are needed to do this work.


Also it looks like I got the comp cam 260h grind. Which from one of my old threads sounds like AB ran his computer dyno to estimate about 200hp and 320tq. With a power band 1500 rpm wider.

 

While I have not modified a 300 six, I've modified enough things in my life to tell you that WOT power is not the goal with the parts listed. Sure, you might get 10-20hp WOT, but what do you get under the curve?

I recently changed the cam in my Harley and several people told me I was going to ruin the bike. Harley's are about low end torque they said, if you want a race bike, buy a race bike. I managed to increase torque and power over almost the entire RPM range and riding the bike is much improved. In my 05 Mustang GT I went from 3.55 gears to 3.73 gears and would do it again in a heart beat. With my 93 Cobra when I would bypass the air pump if added 5-7 hp and you could feel it driving around. Sometimes it's the little changes you make that just make it feel "right".

Ford designed the 300 with it's hands tied. They had to make something that would perform well despite variations in build quality, they had to meet emissions requirements and fuel economy standards, all with 70's and 80's technology. Today we have advanced computer modeling and have learned so much about how to make power with the internal combustion engine. In many cases today's camshafts will optimize both economy and power and you'll get the best of both worlds. We don't have to worry about noise standards and we blue print one engine so we don't have to worry about natural variations on a production line. In many cases we don't even have to worry about emissions.

And it's not about racing around. Just because I can break every speed limit in my state in about 500 feet with my mustang doesn't mean I drive that way all the time, or for that matter all that often. It's actually very rare that I gas it on the street. So why spend $700 for new gears? Because it just feels right driving it where it felt a little off before. That goes for all driving modes, cruising, casual driving and romping around. It just felt like it needed a little more gear and I decided to try and was rewarded with a car that just feels right.

Modifying cars has a long history of people doing things to make it feel or look right to them. It's a way of taking something common and making it unique. When I got my harley it was already modified and I proceeded to take some modifications off and replace them so it became mine and looked and felt right. I'm still not done and likely will never be. It's just something in your blood. If you don't get that then maybe you haven't been bitten by the bug. I don't know if that's a good thing or not, it'll likely save you some money but in the long run you won't know the joy of making something uniquely yours.

 

You guys talk too much...

260h grind increases power evenly across the now wider power band. More duration and lift for intake and exhaust. It's a thoroughly tested cam and it works. More power over all and same mpg. Until secondary's open and you use all 4barrels to suck fuel and air. Lots of very reputable guys on here have done these mods and its where I sourced the parts list from.

 

nstueve,

I've read this thread and you do not seem to like the responses. Please allow me to have a little input...

You might be better served moving your thread to the inline six forum down the page. More people who drive and love their 300/4.9L engines will be interested.

By the way, your list looks very good to me and you are not unreasonable regarding price for one who might be looking. Change the forum and I believe the items will sell.

 

I am sorry I've never been one to rely on my feelings when driving, except to tell me the obvious things, wheels slipping, automatic transmission gear changes, or when there is a drag when coasting caused by a tire too low psi.

You can feel when you removed a crucial part of the air injection system? Or changed the factory gearing? I don't know what to say about that. What I can ask is be careful on your motorcycle, because many have died on "death"cycles..

 

Yes, I can tell when the air pump was disconnected or not. It was noticeable, if only slightly and it was repeatable. What really got me is that I would have believed otherwise and was surprised pleasantly when I picked it out. Same with the gears. The car always felt like it needed a little too much clutch slip for my taste to get moving. Doesn't need nearly as much with the 3.73's.

Feel is simply my subjective analysis of the upgrades I've made and that's valid. I don't live at the race track so what do I care how much HP or ET something returned? It feels better to me. Also, I don't care what WOT hp numbers are anyway, I can tell you that my 4.7l dodge and my former F350's 460 were rated at about the same WOT hp but there was a world of difference driving the two trucks. Given the chance that 460 would drag that little 4.7 around like a toy.

And thank you about your concern with my motorcycle. I have to say before I started riding I never understood why people would subject themselves to the danger, but there's just something about it.


Edit: While I don't know where they are I do have back to back ET's for the air pump and also ET's from when the GT had 3.55's vs 3.73's to show they're faster. But long before that I simply knew it felt better.