Should I replace my own U-joints?
#1
Should I replace my own U-joints?
So I searched around this forum looking for similar posts but didn't notice any. As I've been replacing parts on my '68 F250 I kind of looked at the driveshaft knowing I needed to replace the U-joints. From what I can tell it looked like I just needed to take out some bolts, not to mention I asked my brother who replaced his on his '93 Blazer. He said should just be 4 bolts. Yes I realize the brand and year difference but some things are just that universal. So I crept underneathe and even looked in an original '68 shop manual that I bought. I'm not THAT familiar with names and working parts. The truck is not my DD so it sits as I rebuild it. So I can take a couple days on a part replacement. What I'm wondering is if it would be too involved for me to do it. I already went and got both U-joints. I have a WELL trusted MG specialized mechanic who also works on everything else, but he is a bit more expensive. I also have a front end and brakes guy who is about 20 miles away who is also family trusted. If this is something that would be worth my while not to delve into and learn then I'm all for that. But if this is something that I can do and learn from without toooo much hassle I'll go that route
#4
Ditto...you can do it as long as you bod can take lying on the ground under the truck for a few minutes at a time. Some advice....before you start, go under there with a wire brush or two and clean up all the bolts on the U-joint clamps...then hit 'em with some penetrating oil (Kroil, PB Blaster) and let 'em soak...the longer the better. Then pick a good day, get out your wrenches and get 'er done.
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#6
That's all good. I have no problem laying under there for however long it takes. I just did the transmission filter. I don't mind learning as I go but my biggest fear is doing anything like what gfw1985 stated or any number of things that I may "ruin" like clips or the joints. Another thing is if I do get into and something goes wrong I don't know anyone who can come over and "show me the way". So now I'm thinking I may have one done and just watch and then do the other one for learning sake. Or maybe just have my guy look at them and "point and click". I guess we'll see. Thx for the advice
#7
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you have to always use chalk and mark the driveshaft before you remove it. if you dont have any, then u have to go to the store and get chalk. i have make the mistake before. your driveshaft will vibrate and be toast. and that also goes for if you beat the ujoints real hard and deform it. best thing to do is carefully remove it from the truck yourself, drive it down to a driveshaft shop, pay them the 60 bucks to press the old ones out, press the new ones in, and they will hand you back your driveshaft which you can slap back in the truck.
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#12
The driveshaft is a balanced rotating assembly. You aren't guaranteed to have problems if it's put in 180 degree out from where it was but there's no point in taking the chance when keeping it oriented correctly is so easy.
#13
nate, if you can't replace U-joints then you have to turn in your man card . . . along with your tools. It's slightly more difficult than picking your nose.
On being out 180 . . . that would have zero effect on balance. It would only matter if it was balanced (long ago) along with the yokes it is bolted to. I doubt the factory balances them in the truck. Not sure how they'd do that. It's like saying you always have to put your tires back on with the lug bolts in the same rim holes.
And you can press them out yourself if you have a vise. The first time I did U-joints on an ole Datsun pickup, I had nothing but some hand tools and a hammer, pounded them out on the curb, and didn't worry about being out 180. Turned out great.
On being out 180 . . . that would have zero effect on balance. It would only matter if it was balanced (long ago) along with the yokes it is bolted to. I doubt the factory balances them in the truck. Not sure how they'd do that. It's like saying you always have to put your tires back on with the lug bolts in the same rim holes.
And you can press them out yourself if you have a vise. The first time I did U-joints on an ole Datsun pickup, I had nothing but some hand tools and a hammer, pounded them out on the curb, and didn't worry about being out 180. Turned out great.
#15
I've done many u joints over the years, and wouldn't pay somone to do somthing so simple myself. A press makes it easier, but a vice and a hammer work fine. If yuo pull the slip yolk apart, make sure you line the u joint caps back up (this is why you mark it). If you don't slide the slip yolk apart, no worries. Definetly opt for the better u joints with grease zirks, and then grease them regularly.