Serpentine belt?
#1
#2
I have changed mine on my 2005 2.3l twice, not sure on the 3.0l but should be similar process. First draw your own diagram showing the route the belt takes over and under the different pulleys and then recheck it to confirm your view of the belt. Sometimes the factory sticker has different options and gets confusing. Then I used a ratchet at the idler pulley (square drive hole) to release tension, slipped the belt off, compared it to the new one, routed the new belt, worked the slack toward the idler, used the ratchet to compress the idler spring and slipped the belt on. Save the old as a spare. Hope this helps good luck.
#3
#4
Checking the belt
Paul,
I have a 2000 Ranger with 93K miles (2.5l). I checked my belt a few months ago and it was still good to go (original belt). What I did was to find a good vantage point where I could see larger sections. I used chalk to mark where I inspected the belt (while the engine was off of course). I inspected for the usual: frays on the edge, missing sections of the ribs, excessive cracking, and worn sections. Most of my focus was on the inner part, but I did look at the top of the belt to. I cracked the motor to move the belt a couple times, but someone may have a better way to check. I also have a small positional mirror which allowed me to inspect around corners and hard to see areas. The only thing I found was that the belt top was shiney but I don't hear any squeeling, so I assume that everything is OK.
Keep your driving conditions/situations in mind (much hotter in GA than CT, so it may have an impact on the life of the belt). You don't want to get stuck. The folks who have already posted indicate that this is fairly straightforward, so it might be worth replacing either way for piece of mind.
Good luck!
Kevin
I have a 2000 Ranger with 93K miles (2.5l). I checked my belt a few months ago and it was still good to go (original belt). What I did was to find a good vantage point where I could see larger sections. I used chalk to mark where I inspected the belt (while the engine was off of course). I inspected for the usual: frays on the edge, missing sections of the ribs, excessive cracking, and worn sections. Most of my focus was on the inner part, but I did look at the top of the belt to. I cracked the motor to move the belt a couple times, but someone may have a better way to check. I also have a small positional mirror which allowed me to inspect around corners and hard to see areas. The only thing I found was that the belt top was shiney but I don't hear any squeeling, so I assume that everything is OK.
Keep your driving conditions/situations in mind (much hotter in GA than CT, so it may have an impact on the life of the belt). You don't want to get stuck. The folks who have already posted indicate that this is fairly straightforward, so it might be worth replacing either way for piece of mind.
Good luck!
Kevin
#5
I was just reading an older thread on this and they were talking about the 6 cyl belt being too small and needing to get a larger one. Anyone familiar with that? Need to change the belt on my 98 4.0 and would like to get the right belt and avoid any headaches. They said the listed one(88.25) is wrong and to get the 89.5 size.