Is Zerex G05 the way to go?
#32
04-27-2011, 08:09 PM
I thought the egr cooler caused the silicate dropout its temps are hitting 1200 degrees or more inside that egr cooler we just dont see it because our ect temp sender location
the oil coolers only seeing 195-220 degress
I just figured the egr cooler was making the goo [due to the extream heat] and the oil cooler was filtering out the goo with the small passages
and then theres the casting sand that constantly releasing clogging the oil cooler to
#33
04-27-2011, 08:17 PM
Cargo Master
MoreSteam
Just trying to clarify what you are asking buddy.....don't get upset. Yes, air can become entrapped within the system when the system is opened (drained and refilled). It is very easy to get rid of the air. Fill the vehicle close to the fill line. Open the heater valve in the cab and start the truck. The vehicle has to get up to operating temperature to where the t/stat opens. The whole time you are doing this have the degas bottle cap off and rev the engine (not over rev) constantly watching the temperature (if you have auxiliary gauges) bring it up to temp. Once the top radiator hose is hot and it is above 200, the temp will drop..... the t/stat is open. Let it idle for a little while..... Replace the cap, let the vehicle cool and top it up if necessary. No more air.
Good Luck
Just trying to clarify what you are asking buddy.....don't get upset. Yes, air can become entrapped within the system when the system is opened (drained and refilled). It is very easy to get rid of the air. Fill the vehicle close to the fill line. Open the heater valve in the cab and start the truck. The vehicle has to get up to operating temperature to where the t/stat opens. The whole time you are doing this have the degas bottle cap off and rev the engine (not over rev) constantly watching the temperature (if you have auxiliary gauges) bring it up to temp. Once the top radiator hose is hot and it is above 200, the temp will drop..... the t/stat is open. Let it idle for a little while..... Replace the cap, let the vehicle cool and top it up if necessary. No more air.
Good Luck
#34
04-27-2011, 08:19 PM
I still have gold in mine ,and the shop who performed the work said that is all they have been putting back in. After forking out $4,800 in repairs I needed to get the truck out of there ASAP.
I said to the service rep (non Ford shop) about just filling it with distilled water ,and he asked me if I had a way to get all the air out of the system.
So what is up with this? Is this an issue for anyone who wants to put something other than gold in?
The truck runs great ,but I wish I could just make it go AWAY!!!
I said to the service rep (non Ford shop) about just filling it with distilled water ,and he asked me if I had a way to get all the air out of the system.
So what is up with this? Is this an issue for anyone who wants to put something other than gold in?
The truck runs great ,but I wish I could just make it go AWAY!!!
sometimes a small pocket of air gets traped under the thermistate
there is a blead hole in thermistate to prevent this
its no big deal just run it and it will work out
#37
04-27-2011, 08:27 PM
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Moresteam
If you want to use a coolant that your mechanic does not or will not provide you can have him fill it with distilled water then turn back around, drain it again, and top it off with 3.5 gallons of the concentrated coolant of your choice. However, if you decide to change coolants, my question is how thorough of a flush did he do because you are NOT supposed to mix different types.
If you want to use a coolant that your mechanic does not or will not provide you can have him fill it with distilled water then turn back around, drain it again, and top it off with 3.5 gallons of the concentrated coolant of your choice. However, if you decide to change coolants, my question is how thorough of a flush did he do because you are NOT supposed to mix different types.
#38
04-27-2011, 08:29 PM
#39
04-27-2011, 08:29 PM
#40
04-27-2011, 08:34 PM
you will flush it cleaner than they will they wont spend the time and you dont need a machine to do it
#42
04-28-2011, 07:03 AM
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.............
Another question for you guys. Like I said, this job is getting handled here at the BMW dealer I work at (the tech is an ex-Ford Diesel tech and is familiar with the job). I am having him do the BP kit and I can't let this become a multi-day full-on restoration of my truck because it can't be in the shop that long. I ordered the Dieselsite coolant filter kit and am wondering if I should just fill the truck with distilled water to drive it out of the shop on Friday, and then do the full flushing at home over the weekend. It's only about a 15 mile ride home.
I'm trying to determine the best time to do the flush. I don't want to get a bunch of crap into my new parts, but as I said in my other thread- my oil cooler is already putting a little oil into my coolant. So the way I see it I have no choice but to put the truck back together with my BP oil cooler and BP EGR Cooler (didn't go delete on that for future versatility). I'm just thinking maybe I run the truck a little this weekend and do some distilled water changes on it before installing the ELC coolant. After all, the oil cooler will no longer be in contact with the coolant and I'm figuring the new BP EGR cooler will be okay. I just want to rinse things out well so I get any oil residue out of the coolant system.
I venture I would also go ahead and wait to install the Dieselsite Coolant Filter kit until after the distilled water "dumps". Does this method sound okay?
Another question for you guys. Like I said, this job is getting handled here at the BMW dealer I work at (the tech is an ex-Ford Diesel tech and is familiar with the job). I am having him do the BP kit and I can't let this become a multi-day full-on restoration of my truck because it can't be in the shop that long. I ordered the Dieselsite coolant filter kit and am wondering if I should just fill the truck with distilled water to drive it out of the shop on Friday, and then do the full flushing at home over the weekend. It's only about a 15 mile ride home.
I'm trying to determine the best time to do the flush. I don't want to get a bunch of crap into my new parts, but as I said in my other thread- my oil cooler is already putting a little oil into my coolant. So the way I see it I have no choice but to put the truck back together with my BP oil cooler and BP EGR Cooler (didn't go delete on that for future versatility). I'm just thinking maybe I run the truck a little this weekend and do some distilled water changes on it before installing the ELC coolant. After all, the oil cooler will no longer be in contact with the coolant and I'm figuring the new BP EGR cooler will be okay. I just want to rinse things out well so I get any oil residue out of the coolant system.
I venture I would also go ahead and wait to install the Dieselsite Coolant Filter kit until after the distilled water "dumps". Does this method sound okay?
Wow- this thread sure got busy!
Can anyone give me any advice on the question I posted on Page 2 and have quoted here? The truck is in the shop this morning and this job is about to be underway.
Thanks!
#43
04-28-2011, 09:19 AM
Mine is in at the dealer right now getting the oil cooler replaced. My EOL was fine until I did the proper coolant flush and filled it back up with the ford gold can anyone tell me why this happened? I had to go with the Ford Gold because I have an extended warranty and didn't want to disqualify myself for any warranty issues.
#45
04-28-2011, 09:33 AM
But WRT your question, I wouldn't do anything else if my oil cooler was already bleeding. You don't want the full blown mess that would make if it really opened up.