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  #1  
Old 04-26-2011, 12:29 PM
sifox sifox is offline
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Bleeding Fuel Line

1994 ford f250 7.3l turbo diesel.

I just changed one of the fuel lines that goes to the injector. Now my truck is not running the same. I would like to know how to bleed the fuel lines.

Thanks in adavance.
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  #2  
Old 04-26-2011, 12:51 PM
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If you are reffering to a metal line, simply loosen the line at the ingector and crank until diesel comes out, then tighten the line and start it.
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1992 Ford F-250 XLT 7.3 IDI 115K, 4X4, ZF5 S5-47 w/ 12inch clutch and SMF, Banks wastegated sidewinder turbo, 6637, BB injectors, rebuilt IP w/ fuel turned up, 3 inch DP, custom 3.5 inch exhaust with 4 inch tailpipe, 285/75/16R Yokohama's on PSD alcoas. Rebuilt D60 w/ firestone airbags. 10.25 sterling rear w/4:10's LS, Three pillar gauges with pyrometer, boost, and transmission temperature. Onboard air w/ 400C Viair. 16K rated B&W trailer hitch. Sound-tracker CB w/ 4 ft firestik.
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Old 04-26-2011, 07:48 PM
tecgod13 tecgod13 is offline
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It should bleed out by itself, especially if you only changed the one line. If its not bled out after driving around for a few minutes, something is wrong.

Is there anything else wrong? Why did you replace the line?
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1988 F250, 7.3L IDI, regular cab, long bed, 5spd ZF
Mods: ATS turbo, 3.5 inch exhaust, superduty springs front and rear, 4 gauge A-pillar pod: boost, pyro, coolant and 4th spot is switches; was 2wd, now 4wd with Dana 60 front axle
next projects: fix/complete the 3.5 inch exhaust (tailpipe exits waaaaaay to low, and needs to be extended out from under the bed) swap to a rust free cab
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  #4  
Old 04-26-2011, 08:00 PM
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Did you put the line clamps back on?
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1992 Ford F-250 XLT 7.3 IDI 115K, 4X4, ZF5 S5-47 w/ 12inch clutch and SMF, Banks wastegated sidewinder turbo, 6637, BB injectors, rebuilt IP w/ fuel turned up, 3 inch DP, custom 3.5 inch exhaust with 4 inch tailpipe, 285/75/16R Yokohama's on PSD alcoas. Rebuilt D60 w/ firestone airbags. 10.25 sterling rear w/4:10's LS, Three pillar gauges with pyrometer, boost, and transmission temperature. Onboard air w/ 400C Viair. 16K rated B&W trailer hitch. Sound-tracker CB w/ 4 ft firestik.
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  #5  
Old 04-26-2011, 08:13 PM
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91dirtydiesel 91dirtydiesel is offline
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Does it matter if clamps go back on The metal line?
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  #6  
Old 04-26-2011, 08:15 PM
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Yes, If not, the metal lines will eventually crack as a result of the vibration.
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1992 Ford F-250 XLT 7.3 IDI 115K, 4X4, ZF5 S5-47 w/ 12inch clutch and SMF, Banks wastegated sidewinder turbo, 6637, BB injectors, rebuilt IP w/ fuel turned up, 3 inch DP, custom 3.5 inch exhaust with 4 inch tailpipe, 285/75/16R Yokohama's on PSD alcoas. Rebuilt D60 w/ firestone airbags. 10.25 sterling rear w/4:10's LS, Three pillar gauges with pyrometer, boost, and transmission temperature. Onboard air w/ 400C Viair. 16K rated B&W trailer hitch. Sound-tracker CB w/ 4 ft firestik.
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  #7  
Old 04-26-2011, 08:32 PM
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91dirtydiesel 91dirtydiesel is offline
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Well I better put mine back on then haha
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  #8  
Old 04-26-2011, 09:02 PM
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Yep, most take em' off to paint the lines and never put them back on, lol.
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1992 Ford F-250 XLT 7.3 IDI 115K, 4X4, ZF5 S5-47 w/ 12inch clutch and SMF, Banks wastegated sidewinder turbo, 6637, BB injectors, rebuilt IP w/ fuel turned up, 3 inch DP, custom 3.5 inch exhaust with 4 inch tailpipe, 285/75/16R Yokohama's on PSD alcoas. Rebuilt D60 w/ firestone airbags. 10.25 sterling rear w/4:10's LS, Three pillar gauges with pyrometer, boost, and transmission temperature. Onboard air w/ 400C Viair. 16K rated B&W trailer hitch. Sound-tracker CB w/ 4 ft firestik.
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Old 04-26-2011, 09:51 PM
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Exactly what I did
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Old 04-27-2011, 01:37 AM
sifox sifox is offline
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Yeah, I think I got some other problem. I replaced the line because it broke when I was driving. I did put the clamps back on. I drove my truck to work, 10 hours laters I had problems starting it. After starts it's easy to start it again. The problem is when it seats. I check all the lines and I don't see a leak. I'm planing to change the fuel filter tomorrow and look for leaks.
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Old 04-27-2011, 04:31 PM
tecgod13 tecgod13 is offline
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Sounds like an air leak into the return lines. It may not show as a fuel leak, but the air will leak in and the fuel will siphon back to the tank causing hard starts.

My guess is you need to do a return line kit, or at least replace the o-rings if the plastic caps and fuel lines look fine. size #111 viton rings. There are PLENTY of threads discussing return lines....
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1988 F250, 7.3L IDI, regular cab, long bed, 5spd ZF
Mods: ATS turbo, 3.5 inch exhaust, superduty springs front and rear, 4 gauge A-pillar pod: boost, pyro, coolant and 4th spot is switches; was 2wd, now 4wd with Dana 60 front axle
next projects: fix/complete the 3.5 inch exhaust (tailpipe exits waaaaaay to low, and needs to be extended out from under the bed) swap to a rust free cab
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Old 04-27-2011, 04:50 PM
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Saying your truck wasn't 'running the same' identifies rough idling/lack of power. It sounds like it runs fine once you get it started so the problem is know as hard starting.
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1992 Ford F-250 XLT 7.3 IDI 115K, 4X4, ZF5 S5-47 w/ 12inch clutch and SMF, Banks wastegated sidewinder turbo, 6637, BB injectors, rebuilt IP w/ fuel turned up, 3 inch DP, custom 3.5 inch exhaust with 4 inch tailpipe, 285/75/16R Yokohama's on PSD alcoas. Rebuilt D60 w/ firestone airbags. 10.25 sterling rear w/4:10's LS, Three pillar gauges with pyrometer, boost, and transmission temperature. Onboard air w/ 400C Viair. 16K rated B&W trailer hitch. Sound-tracker CB w/ 4 ft firestik.
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Old 04-27-2011, 06:04 PM
sifox sifox is offline
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Thanks, The kit should be here some time tomorrow. Hopefully that soles my starting problem.
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  #14  
Old 04-27-2011, 11:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sifox View Post
Yeah, I think I got some other problem. I replaced the line because it broke when I was driving. I did put the clamps back on. I drove my truck to work, 10 hours laters I had problems starting it. After starts it's easy to start it again. The problem is when it seats. I check all the lines and I don't see a leak. I'm planing to change the fuel filter tomorrow and look for leaks.
You more then likely knocked a return line loose. They become brittle after a while and if you move them they'll leak.

A quick tip to see if the return lines are leaking at all: Park the truck, let it sit overnight, slowly pull the fuel filter off the next morning, IF IT'S NOT FULL to the brim with fuel, you have a leak.
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Old 05-04-2011, 12:44 PM
sifox sifox is offline
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I finally had time to replace the return lines and seals. Now the truck starts normal. The only problem I have is that it's throwing tons of smoke, white smoke. That wasn't like that before. What do you guys think I did wrong to make that happen? When I come to a complete stop the engine sounds like is having trouble getting fuel.
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Old 05-04-2011, 12:44 PM
 
 
 
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