I have done that i do that everytime i fill up and thats what it gets 8 mpg

 

I've got a stock 93/RCSB/302/auto/2wd and it get 13 in town/15-17 on hwy

 

So you're only getting about 125 miles per tank?

I would go back and read all of these threads and start implementing some of the suggestions. Something is WAY wrong.

 

at 190-198 miles on the front tank i run completely dry, rear tank i can get about...ehhh....231-236. i got 31x10.50's and im running 4:11 rear and 4:10 front(when in 4x4) with an E4OD and a 302..my mileage is pretty good when im empty when it comes to these trucks!!

 

I have recently received a free 79 ford f150 ranger 2wd, Ive been cleaning it up and did some things to the motor. It previously sat in a garage for 25 yeas and i have done water pump, plugs, freeze plugs, radiator, oil, hoses, etc. I have the original 302 and 2 barrel carb and it isn't very good on gas. I have ran sea foam through it and it made it runs bit better. Im looking to improve the MPG because it isn't good at all, maybe change the carb and intake or rebuild the old 2 barrel? Thanks

 

My truck is a 1996 f150 4x4. And im getting 8.4 miles per gal granted ive got 31.10'50s mudtires on it and I have a wooden box I haul trash but I went from 14 to 8.4 miles in the last 5 months and ive been hauling for over ayr and a half help me fix it ive changed wires plugs cab ritor button fuel filter air filter map sensor one o2senser new exhaust.radiator...

 

Check codes to see if there is a problem. Best place to start.

 

I have a 1991 F-150 XLT Lariat 5.0L EFI Standard Cab Longbed that has only 112K miles and is immaculate and runs great but the mileage is about 10! What might be wrong? 15" wheels and all bone stock.

 

Last time tune-up performed? What is rear gear? trans?
The common, denominator/answer, is that nobody is checking for codes, to see what truck is telling you is wrong.

 

If you're in an area where emmisions arent regulated like the flow of immigrants currently...

Take off all the smog pump crap, bean cans, char filter box, and the EGR, and the fuel trim thermactor air bypass valve and regulator, leave all those electric connectors in place and cover with tape in case it doesnt help or you decide to sell the vehichle you add parts back on and have more original value. Cap all vacuum ports with vacuum line caps. Or duct tape.. leave the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line attached, or don't. I took it off and have put it back on, really don't notice a difference. I have oem style exhaust manifolds, 3 inch from collectors to rear axel, a 3 inch glass pack into a 2.5 over the axel. I have found an increase in fuel economy with this set up. Always having heard true dual exhaust with long tube headers is best for fuel efficiency. Maybe you should add a high air flow filter, or cold air intake? Maybe dual high flow/cold air. Biggest thing also, is if you're anything like me, don't try and race all the idiots that are jealous you're in a truck thats paid for and will last 100000000 miles, and they are in debt with a brand new everything in life, including a new truck that is designed to fail just after its out of anyone else's hands and fully into thine own hands. so if a heavy foot, proving to everyone what was built then squashes what they build now. Just act like you're in the year the truck was made. In the 90s the road was for commute, especially in town. I don't know that's my input

 

Injectors? I recently had a similar problem. Wind obviously doesn't help when we drive big Ole bricks. I ended up touching a couple wires together one day trying to fix a high idle problem, I figured it had something to do with the ECU, and the response the TPS was giving, so I spent 100+ dollars in tps sensors thinking I kept on breaking them or not calibrating them correctly. Well when I touched these two wires 😁 she SHUT DOWN... I was stranded. It was total ****. Ate the blade, got a new ECU eventually, also spent 1000 bucks on other parts in between death and revival. As it turns out though, this new computer changed some things, smooth 800 rpm idle at running temp, better fuel economy, but then again I had 3 inch pipe for 3 foot after the headers, and it was like open headers, no velocity back pressure. That is important, get a 3 inch cherry bomb style muffler any kind I got a ricer brand UPOWER that went after that 3' 3 " pipe, making it around 4.5 ' and the reduce to 2.5 over the axel and as far back as you'd like. It seems to have helped for me, and I've got over 400,000 miles on her if it doesn't help for you, or this isnt news to you. Well hope you got a good laugh at least

 

This thread is from 2011.

Pulling the manifold reference line off the fuel pressure regulator is a bad idea. That will result in a variable delta across the injectors. The FPR is there to maintain the 39.15 psi delta across the injectors no matter the manifold vacuum.

The stock air intake IS a cold air intake.

Exhaust backpressure will always hinder performance on a 4-stroke ICE. Backpressure doesn't equal velocity or scavenging.

Thanks for the reminder that these forums exist. I'll have to tool around and see what's new.

 

He seems to have a few bad ideas, that need not done.