OK, same problem with overdrive button. i put some tape around it and made it for awhile but had used all my 10 amp fuses. i put a 30 in it just to get back to camp where i had tools and fuses in my 97 f250 turbo diesel. didn't make it. i had a new shifter brought out to me and put it in with new wires but it didn't blow the fuse and now i have same problem with no blown fuse? just wanting to know if i should start at that wire or at the fuse panel??
By the same problem, you are saying, no gauges, no throttle right? If you have gauges as the O/D cancel switch lights up when pushed, you probably have an issue with the throttle pedal. They can be picky some times.
By the same problem, you are saying, no gauges, no throttle right? If you have gauges as the O/D cancel switch lights up when pushed, you probably have an issue with the throttle pedal. Tno gaugeshey can be picky some times.
no gauges or cluster either...same as when I blew the fuse before
ANYBODY HELP? I STILL HAVENT FIGURED OUT WHAT TO CHECK NEXT? I HAVE LOOKED GOR ANOTHER FUSE BOX, I AM TRYING TO PIN DOWN A POSSIBLE FUSIBLE LINK? MY TRUCK IS DOING THE SAME THING AS BLOWING FUSE #45 BUT FUSE IS GOOD?? WHAT DID I POSSIBLY FRY INSTEAD OF FUSE?? THANKS ANYBODY FOR ANY HELP I MIGHT GET!
This thread is a very good lesson for all of us. Repeatedly replacing a fuse because of needing to get back on the road or in a dangerous/inconvenient location can cause further damage to other wires bundled with the shorted wire. Over-sized fuses are never a good idea. The fuses are sized to protect the wire, which is sized to handle a certain amount of current flow without overheating. A shorted wire increases the current flow to ground, causing heat. As the current goes up, the heat produced goes up by the square of the increase in current. So 3X current produces 9X heat, quickly damaging fuse blocks, other wiring. If labor is factored in, very costly! Good job finding the problem, bigshoe. Larry
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