1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks
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I'm working on taking off my exhaust manifolds and replacing them with headers. The only problem is I'm havin trouble gettin the old bolts loose. I've been spraying them with penetrating fluid everyday for a week before I even attemped to turn em loose. I'm also worried about breaking the bolts and reallly digging myself a hole. Any tips or ideas?
If your truck is higher mileage and has never had the manifolds off, I suggest leaving it alone. You don't want broken bolts in the heads. Its a 50/50 chance you will break one or more off in the head. In my opinion its not worth it. They only way I would consider headers is if they were going on a fresh motor or the heads were already off to be reworked.
__________________ 2002 Ford Ranger Extended Cab Flareside 3.0 V6 Automatic 3.73
1965 Mustang 302 T5
Fix It Up Don't %$@# It Up
Use an air chisel and put force directly on the head of the bolt as if you were trying to push it into the cylinder head. Make sure you use a blunt tool when doing this. I got 13 out with my fingers this way two snapped and the other took some heat. Using a right angle drill you can drill and tap the bolts easily do all the work from the wheel well with the plastic liner removed.
Also, pb blaster is the best penetrating oil out there! I agree with leaving them alone if they are not cracked or broken. But with the plastic wheel wells out and you can get an impact on there then that's easily the best option. Hopefully you don't have real rusty motor because if you do then those bolts are more than likely soft and thin And you will break them.
pb blaster and squirt and tap squirt and tap did this on the exaust end tube and the bolts came right out of the ends of the heads also work em back and forth tight then loose goodluck
94 f150 2wd, E40D 300I6, reg cab 8' bed, Tow Pac. project You rarely use 1st unless you start on a hill with some a-hole trying to check your prostate with his prius. Unlike ricers we can't get parts at Walmart ...
Then Ford blew it totally with the 10th gen and it never got better since.
96 f150 4wd, 4R70W 302V8, super cab 8' bed, Tow Pac. daily driver
Use the "Freeze-Off" nut&bolt loosening agent. I have had luck heating the bolts up and then spraying some of the "freeze-off" on them to help expand and contrct them, breaking them free. As White Max said about AeroKroil, try that as well!! It's expensive, but it does work. Keep sparying them and then drive for awhile. Let it cool down and spray them again. This heat and cool cycle along with some penetrating lubricant will be your friend in safely removing the bolts.
Best of luck!
1992 F-150 I6 4.9L 300 110K 4x4, SuperCab, Manual
1992 F-150 V8 302 156K 4x4, SuperCab, Auto
"He's one brick shy of a load..."
"These ideas, evaluations, opinions are representations of real-life scenarios and backed by Murphy's Law..."
"Inferior parts lead to immediate failure sooner than later..."
I had 107000 on mine when I did the headers. I drove the truck for a while, and while it still hot, I put pressure on them to TIGHTEN them and then loosen them. No need for any PB blaster, they all came out easy, except the last one. I knew would break anyway due to corrosion.
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