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  #46  
Old 04-26-2011, 09:58 PM
PaulDH PaulDH is offline
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Got any more info on the motor home rail chassis PS pump. Will it fasten directly to the existing Super Duty PS pump bracket? Does it use a better high pressure PS hose connection to the pump?

I agree the PS pumps on the Super Duty are a piece of junk. Besides the funky O-ring sealed plastic pump housing, the high pressure hose connection to the pump is a joke. The high pressure power steering hose blows free of the PS pump due to lousy design.
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2001 F250 Lariat CC LB, 4x4, 84,000 mi, Auto, Kelderman 4-Link Air Lift Suspension, AirRaid AIS, Banks Turbo - IC - 6 Gun Diesel Tuner - Billet TC - TransCommand, 40" Toyos, Dana 60 kingpin front axle, 5.13s, Detroits, Bully Dog Propane Injection, Kwik fuel Pump-in-Tank Mod, Harpoon, Standby fuel pump on frame rail (Hutch), Kwik FuelX & Return, Engine Oil/Transmission/Coolant Bypass, Delo ELC, KCM HPX, Stancor GPR, AIH Delete, 50 cent mod, CCV, 140V IDM, PSC hydraulic ram assist PS ...
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  #47  
Old 04-26-2011, 10:06 PM
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So basically the bolt was stuck in the monifold and not the threads themselves? I was told back when I first got my truck to check for leaks and I remember being able to get a lil bit on all the bolts. But that was with a long 3/8 ratchet, I didn't know what a torque wrench was back then! Lol
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  #48  
Old 04-26-2011, 10:08 PM
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Guess what I was getting at was we don't have that corrosion issue round here unless you get down on the gulf!
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  #49  
Old 04-27-2011, 06:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bulla View Post
Guess what I was getting at was we don't have that corrosion issue round here unless you get down on the gulf!
You got it. I'm from GA, and for 9+ years my truck didn't rust. Stationed here in TN for 2 years, and on a quiet night I can hear my truck rusting.
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  #50  
Old 04-27-2011, 10:31 AM
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SkySkiJason SkySkiJason is offline
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The bolts stick in the manifolds because the threads create a space in the smooth bore of the manifold. RUST expands steel 4x and LOCKS them in place. The torque on bolts to heads is only 38ft lbs IIRC - and no 'space' for rust - so they seem to come out pretty easily. I am quite certain you went ahead and replaced all the bolts, but since ya didn't mention it...

Rust sucks! I think coating the manifolds will help mitigate this problem and wonder if it would be worth the effort to coat the part of the bolt that goes thru manifold for good measure. I lathered mine up with high-temp anti-sieze, but know it won't last forever in that environment.

I'd say you need some resurfacing - but we can only hope its the manifolds that are out of spec... Don't use gaskets unless you like this job, since they will eventually 'wear out' for the same reason the donuts in stock up-pipes fail. Metal-to-metal should last indefinitely.

Btw, I'll be passing thru in a couple weeks - hoping to hook up with y'all on the way by! Dunno if you've seen the new Toy Hauler TT behind the Excursion yet, but we sure do like it! Setting up the CF, etc in the garage for the ultimate on-the-road filtration system as well as extra clean WVO storage and pump/hose for easy refueling in-route!
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  #51  
Old 04-27-2011, 10:33 AM
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Please tell is more about this motor home PS pump
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e 99 F250 super duty ext cab xlt 7.3 PSD ZF6 this describes it best... http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/10...ld-thread.html
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  #52  
Old 04-27-2011, 10:37 AM
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Oh yeah, are you using Turbo X coating?? Or some other product?

I have an extra set of manifolds I'm gonna blast and coat. Now that you've got some practice, maybe I'll just drop the X off at your place and pick it up when yer done?

It really sux ya live so far away these days, I'd have been there for you if I could.......
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  #53  
Old 04-27-2011, 07:21 PM
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Jason, call when you're in the area (my txt is hit or miss)... I've amassed some new garage toys since your last visit.

Ok, I'll do more research for F53 chassis power steering pump. Nothing concrete right now EXCEPT it doesn't have the d&^% O-ring mounting/seal configuration. More to follow.
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  #54  
Old 05-01-2011, 07:08 PM
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So, I'm winning... here is what the doctor ordered to remove the rusted bolt on the passenger side manifold.


That's a 20-Ton press applying about 18, with regular PB Blaster shots. Didn't phase it.
From Exhaust Manifolds


Maybe a relief hole drilled into the bolt will do it.
From Exhaust Manifolds


Nope, still couldn't press it out. Ok I'll redeploy the blue wrench, along with a buddy.
From Exhaust Manifolds


Well with ~20min of heat, burning off the rust, it still wouldn't budge. Last trick, poured some liquid CO2 down the relief hole in the bolt... THEN it pressed out!
From Exhaust Manifolds


My album, https://picasaweb.google.com/CasperC...eat=directlink, also has pics of how bad the rust really was on this manifold. Much worse than the D/S for some reason. Had to deploy the needle scaler prior to blasting, but the finished product is good. Just an update, till paint, weather here is BAD.
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  #55  
Old 05-02-2011, 10:37 AM
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SkySkiJason SkySkiJason is offline
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Holy crap!

Uh, where do ya get liquid CO2??
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  #56  
Old 05-02-2011, 04:02 PM
Bonanza35 Bonanza35 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SkySkiJason View Post
Holy crap!

Uh, where do ya get liquid CO2??
My thought exactly. I have the gas in cyclinder but no liquid. Dose the welding supply have this? Chet
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  #57  
Old 05-03-2011, 11:11 AM
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Ok, I'll let you guys in on my secret... How about a can of dust off, up-side DOWN
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  #58  
Old 05-03-2011, 12:43 PM
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I was thinking that but didn't know if you had a bigger supply of it or something. So are you having the manifolds re surfaced? And are you using a gasket?
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  #59  
Old 05-03-2011, 12:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CPUNeck View Post
Ok, I'll let you guys in on my secret... How about a can of dust off, up-side DOWN
Damn, that is too easy. When I grow up I wanna be as smart as you are!!!
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  #60  
Old 05-04-2011, 06:49 AM
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Yep, necessity is the mother of invention. You should've seen my nephew's face, he learned a lot . We both were concerned the press was going to torpedo my manifold across the shop.

I'm going to use a gasket... it's an experiment, as alot of what I'm doing is, until I get my up-pipes. It will probably about a year before I install them.

Testing:
Grill paint on the up-pipes and down pipe.
Techline "Black Satin" header coating (manifolds, compressor housing on turbo)
Permatex® Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant (as rust inhibitor for bolt shoulders at manifold, and all exhaust connections)
Caliper paint (5-way plenum, and CAC tubes)

We'll see how they all perform.
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Old 05-04-2011, 06:49 AM
 
 
 
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