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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

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Old 04-19-2011, 10:57 PM
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MFogarty1996 MFogarty1996 is offline
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Clutch cable broke?

Ok so here goes with my bad luck streak on day 2. Tonight while driving home from a buddies house i turned the corner and was shifting into 2nd gear. As soon as i pushed the clutch in i heard a bang, the pedal hit the floor and stayed there, and a little plastic piece hit my leg. Turns out the clutch cable has gone and broke itself or atleast the plastic connector thing. Thats my guess anyway. Any input as to what you think happened and also how to fix it would be great! 1996 f150 inline 6
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Old 04-19-2011, 11:26 PM
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Bovaloe Bovaloe is offline
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Well you have a hydraulic clutch so there is no cable.
If you look up under the dash you will see the clutch pedal, it and the brake pedal pivot on one horizontal bar, follow that bar over towards the center on the cab and you will see a part that mates up with a rod that goes into a black plastic switch with a connector on it, that is the master cylinder and neutral safety switch.
Take a look under there and see what is broken, or take a picture and maybe someone on here can tell you what you broke.
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Last edited by Bovaloe; 04-19-2011 at 11:32 PM. Reason: Took a look at my pickup
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Old 04-20-2011, 08:35 AM
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Ok, so i found what you said to look for and i took pictures.
Click the image to open in full size.
Now incase you havnt realized im not very good with trucks or parts, im tryin to learn. So idk what this is or how to fix it. explain? Thank you!
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Old 04-20-2011, 09:05 AM
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You need a new clutch master cylinder.
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Old 04-20-2011, 10:44 AM
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how does one go about fixing this? It seems pretty simple the replacing part undo the old one disconnect the fluid line put new in and re connect the line. Is that about it? and i know id have the bleed the line after, how do i do that?
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Old 04-20-2011, 10:48 AM
Lazy K Lazy K is offline
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Bleeding a Concentric Hydraulic Clutch Set-up .: Articles Good article here. Make sure you bench bleed the master cyl before you fit it.
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Old 04-20-2011, 12:48 PM
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The hydraulic line is held in your master cylinder with a roll pin - knocking it out is a little tricky because it is so small. Other than that, it's pretty straightforward IMO.
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Old 04-20-2011, 04:42 PM
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Would you recommend a novice tackle this, or would you say have someone at a shop do it untill i learn for sure how do this type of job?
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Old 04-20-2011, 05:25 PM
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Only one way to learn.... Do it yourself
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Old 04-20-2011, 06:54 PM
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Do i have to bench bleed the system before putting it on, or can i just bleed the system after i put the new one on?
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Old 04-20-2011, 07:56 PM
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On yours you can just open the bleeder on the slave cylinder (at the trans) and gravity bleed it.
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Old 04-20-2011, 08:13 PM
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ive never bleed anything before cause im new to the whole fixing my own truck thing. so a little more details than that or pictures? i dont even know where to start. any simple instructions on how to do this would be great! Ive gotten as far as to remove the old master cylinder from the fire wall. the hose and everything are still attached. The new cylinder has a little pin and o-ring type thing and i dont know if i need these. I assume the pin is for the hose to hold it in place. the oring a gasket? as for bleeding. i have no idea. Im going to go out on a whim and say fill the reservoir put the lid back on and pump the pedal?
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Old 04-21-2011, 06:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jas88 View Post
The hydraulic line is held in your master cylinder with a roll pin - knocking it out is a little tricky because it is so small. Other than that, it's pretty straightforward IMO.
You need to disconnect the line from the old cyl and connect it to the new one with the new pin and seal.
It is best to get all the air out of the new cyl before you bolt it in. You can do this by filling it with fluid and slowly pushing the piston in, then put your finger over the fluid outlet before releasing the piston so that air is not drawn in. Do this several times until only fluid cones out with no air. Then bolt the new cyl in position (connect pipe) and connect to the clutch pedal.
Now pump the pedal and see how good the clutch is. If there is still air in it you can then open the bleed screw down at the transmission end of the hydraulic line and get a helper to slowly push the pedal to bleed any air out. Make sure you keep the resevoir topped up at all times.
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Old 04-21-2011, 07:39 AM
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thanks im going to give it a try now so i have most of the day to do it. If needed, and i hope it doesn't weather calls for rain later D:
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Old 04-21-2011, 08:29 AM
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Or if you have 2 helpers you can put everything on and get a rubber vacuum line that can connect to the bleeder on the slave. Use a clean clear container and put the brake fluid in it. Insert the vacuum line in the container and have one person continue to fill the reservoir while the other pumps the pedal. Do this until the air bubbles quit coming out.
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Old 04-21-2011, 08:29 AM
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