Pics to be coming.. was wondering if I should post the build or not... and we all know what happened there.. going in my 66 Mustang 5spd 9" 410 gears MII Front end....

This is a through together build with a mix of parts I have kicking around... should be interesting. Have a 351w roller block waiting for a stroker kit and my Roush heads...

updates coming....

 

go efi using a quaterhorse or megasquirt setup. classic with great reliability

 

OK here is the block I used it was already bored .030


The pistons that came with the block were good and I have no money so I'm using them just sucks I have a couple of weeks to get this together. I'm losing my shop so I need to at least get it together for storage... I put some 460 ARP rod bolts in and had the rods re-sized... good enough...

Used a 1996 crank out of the roller block I have... that's getting stroked and some Roush heads... the crank that was in this motor had one of those speedy sleeves on the end of it for the rear main... the one out of the roller motor was nice bearing all looked real good so I just cleaned it and put it in...




Put the pistons in all went good I had .015 clearance on the rings





Then slammed on my ported E7's I had on my 302, had to drill the head bolt hole out to except the 1/2 inch 351W head bolts... I lapped in the valves and all was good...

OK these heads have a story.... I was putting together a 302... again on the cheap.... and wanted to use some E7 heads I had ... I had the 1.9 and 1.6 ss valves and all the rest of it I just didn't have the extra money for the hardened exhaust seats.... long story short I cut the exhaust seat into the heads and it was still into the induction hardening from the factory... These seat have about 5 years on them.. maybe 10,000 miles....





So you can cut E7 exhaust seats to the bigger 1.60 valve without needing to spend the cash...

 

Tried putting on the truck pan and the HV oil pump hits the pan... nice wtf... so I beat the pan out so far I split a crack in the pan, guess I'm going to need to get the right pan for the car... 66 with a MII front end. Going to measure up the car and see where the engine rests inside her... I think I read a double humped pan will work with the MII Fend... have to look around.



I was going to get the motor mounted on my engine stand and run it before a put it into storage... think I'll heat the other truck pan I have and try to make it fit again..or weld in a bigger hump to clear the pump...

 

Heads on...


things on hold... need shorter push rods...

here is what it looked like with the stock length push rod..



Made up a adjustable push rod and went shorter..
the valve in the rear had the shorter push rod, the pattern is more to the center of the valve... 8.100



this is how much shorter




I went ahead and put the intake on it...

first thing I do is cut those hooks that hold the gaskets in place off... aftermarket intakes bend the head gaskets tabs down where the intake gasket hooks to it... every sbf I have taken apart with an aftermarket intake had the intake gaskets pulled down over the top of the intake port... cut those hooks off and glue the intake gaskets to the head...and that wont happen. next time you put one together dry fit everything put the intake on it and then take it off, you will see the tabs bent downward and so wont the intake gaskets.

 

use the hi volume pump and your stock pick uptube. you wont have issues then.

 

That's what I tried to do... I put a millings HV pump in and it hits the truck pan.. I heard FMS has a HV pump that clears the pans

 

this one is cheap enough, might be a good one to start with if I have to build one..

Amazon.com: 1979-93 Ford Small Block 351W Windsor Drag Racing Oil Pan - Zinc: Automotive

 

second thoughts about using that cam... it was a cam a friend had in his 289 many many years ago... I brought it a cam grinder that has a shop right down the road. he check it and it was a small like 268 or so hydraulic grind, he said he reground a 270H profile on it but yesterday when I was checking the geometry I check the valve lift and it was only 489 at the valve.. any thoughts on a cam...

I think the heads will support 6000rpms on a 351W... my 302 would pull hard to 6500 plus and then I think the cam ran out.. not sure.

 

honestly i would get a custom ground cam thats tailored to your motor specs.

 

I know I should but it's just not in the cards this build... after I run it on the stand and if the cam makes it through the brake in I'm just going to run it... but if it fails I might run a 280s. If I have to buy one it will be a solid flat.. for sure I like my solids..

 

This is how much the oil pump hits the pan... I cut the pan and then bolted it down with no gasket and this is how much it pushed the pan out..





So I cut the bottom from other pan I had and made this one a little deeper







I filled the pan with some thinner and let it set... no leaks!

Then the distrutor hit the L-cheapo intake .....







Use a 1968 balancer and three bolt pulley... the pulley is the same size as the balancer, way smaller than the 4 bolt pulleys I have... L-cheap-o under drive pulleys. Used the largest water pump pulley I had too..



Push rods came in today late so it looks like it's running tomorrow...





header look a little wide for a 66 mustang ... guess I'm buying headers...

Almost forgot I reused a rubber one piece oil pan gasket one of these motors had in it when I took them apart.....

 

Little heat and a porta power and I might be able to run the exhaust on the out side of the frame... Have to look into that, muffler placement and what not...

 

Oh ya when I used the 68 balancer I had to remark the outside edge for the timing marks... 68 put the timing marks on the right and the newer 351w had them on the left...

so I put the crank @ 0* using the right balancer for the timing cover indicator (which was on the left) then I put the 68 blanacer on it and marked it where the indicator was pointing at.. I used a hack saw to cut a grove in it... so now I have 0* marked on the 68 balancer and I can use my timing light to set it...

 

You should trim the intake gasket to the size of the coolant passages if you haven`t done so already. It will reastric flow and may cause overheating problems. I`m pretty sure the instructions mention that. Good luck on your build.