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Old 04-17-2011, 07:22 AM
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boosting FICM voltage

While I have this thing (FICM) torn apart on my wifes dinning room table...(My shop is to cold!). what is needed to boost the voltage up from 48v to 58v? Is it just using different resisters? if so, is that something I should attempt or am I just asking for trouble?
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Old 04-17-2011, 01:04 PM
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Unless your an electrical technician, your asking for a new FICM.
If you wish to upgrade it check out Swamps Diesel.
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Old 04-17-2011, 03:02 PM
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While I have this thing (FICM) torn apart on my wifes dinning room table...(My shop is to cold!). what is needed to boost the voltage up from 48v to 58v? Is it just using different resisters? if so, is that something I should attempt or am I just asking for trouble?

Why would you want to go from 48 to 58?
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Old 04-17-2011, 05:09 PM
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Why would you want to go from 48 to 58
When I did a search on repairing my FICM, I saw some of the other members were doing this upgrade. As a cabinetmaker and not a Diesel Tech. I usually bow to the knowledge of those who do this type of thing every day. Am I missing something?
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Old 04-17-2011, 08:43 PM
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It's a sales gimmick, if 10 more volts is better then my factory built in 2002 FICM then someone should prove it with hard facts.
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Old 04-17-2011, 10:14 PM
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Why would you want to go from 48 to 58
When I did a search on repairing my FICM, I saw some of the other members were doing this upgrade. As a cabinetmaker and not a Diesel Tech. I usually bow to the knowledge of those who do this type of thing every day. Am I missing something?

I see no point in trying to boost it. I may be missing something but I doubt it... I'm betting the line of thinking is something akin to having extra voltage just in case...? Like some kind of "safety margin"...

Seems pointless to me. Unless somebody has a very valid reason, I wouldn't attempt this mod. I'd attempt it on somebody elses' FICM though...
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Old 04-17-2011, 11:14 PM
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58/48 = 1.208
So a 20-21% increase in operating voltage. Would you upgrade every fuse in your fusebox by that and hope nothing will go wrong? Sorry, sticking to stock here. Unless you know more than the average electronics engineer, I think you're playing with fire.

Resoldering your FICM - $0 dollars
1 injector - $450 dollars
8 injectors - $3600 dollars
1 FICM - $1000 dollars
Cussing and cursing the 6.0 because you wanted 58V - priceless
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Old 08-19-2014, 09:28 AM
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6.0L injector problems are associated with the spool valve, the higher voltage of the 58v FICM can minimize intermittent injector firings (misfires), by creating a stronger magnetic PULL on the spool valve. The 58v FICM also moves the spool more quickly (mechanically), which slightly advances the mechanical injection timing…which is beneficial to both performance and fuel eco.
Basically what thats saying is the stronger maganetic feild you have pulling the spool the less problems you're likey to have with your fueling system.. in thoery. Not sure if I totally buy it or not but the logic is there. Its basically the same thing as a pick up coil for the older vehicles with distributors and rotors. The coil builds energy between each stud hit with the rotor. Once it hits said stud it discharges all its energy to the spark plug wire. Once it breaks contact with the stud it colapses the maganetic field ( why you get 10K-14K volt coils ). Like I said it makes sence in thoery but not sure if i totally buy it. As far as the magnetic oull goes for the spool yes that is true more voltage equals stronger pull. Now the question is how much can your stock wiring actually hold and utilize before being regulated lower is the question.
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Old 08-19-2014, 09:40 AM
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I believe it has more to do with injector on time than voltage, there is a point of no return with voltage on the coil, will the higher voltage get there faster? I believe there is alot to take into account when playing with the ficm, I know 1 mod is to get the injector on time around 3ms. As long as your fuel system is up to it, you would be doubling the factory on time, We experimented with the earlier ficm's like the 100volt, 120volt, and the modified 140volt, it wasnt so much with the volts, it was the frequency and sine wave length, which increase the on time, I believe 3ms was the point of no return, meaning anything more is wasting fuel and possibly doing damage. check with 5 Star tuning they know alot more than we do.
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Old 08-19-2014, 05:12 PM
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You also have to remember the factory insulation is designed for a certain voltage. If you break it down you are asking for trouble. I would stay with the factory voltage.
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Old 08-19-2014, 05:12 PM
 
 
 
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