1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Rear End Question

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  #16  
Old 04-30-2011, 11:42 PM
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Originally Posted by wakeboarder32
can you change the drum to disc or is it too much of a pain?
You can change the rear drum to discs, no problem. I would recommend it before using a Versailles rear today. 20 years ago, that was the hot setup. Everyone wanted one and they sold for big bucks. Today, many of the parts are obsolete and if you have worn or broken parts, or are missing a little bracket or spring or spacer or etc., you're screwed. If you've just got to have rear discs, a late model Explorer rear end is the way to go these days. Don't even consider a big Lincoln rear. They're way too big and have an oddball wheel lug pattern.
 
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Old 05-01-2011, 04:51 AM
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Originally Posted by wakeboarder32
Late 70's Lincoln 9 inch.
Originally Posted by wakeboarder
'77-80 Lincoln Versailles 58" (has rear disc brakes).
How do you know this 9" rear axle is from a Versailles?

Rear Disc Brakes w/a 9 inch: 1975/76 Continental Mark IV & Thunderbird / 1975/78 LTD/Mercury Marquis / 1975/79 Lincoln Town Car / 1975/80 Granada/Monarch/Versailles / 1977/79 Continental Mark V.
 
  #18  
Old 05-01-2011, 09:04 AM
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Find a 9" out of a 57-72 Ford truck. The last 2 or 3 years have the slightly wider drums which, imho, is the best choice.
 
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Old 05-01-2011, 09:24 AM
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1957/67 F100: 11" x 1 3/4" rear brakes (same size as 1948/52 F1 & 1953/56 F100) / 1968/72 F100: 11" X 2 1/4" rear brakes.
 
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Old 05-01-2011, 01:59 PM
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Bill,
Thanks for your clarification. I did not realize that the changover year on rear brake shoe width was 1968.
 
  #21  
Old 05-01-2011, 02:09 PM
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This will help:

1948 through 1960 Ford F-1 and F-100 Rear Axle (differential) Swaps .: Articles

If you want a rear end I have a 9" from a 67 f100 (3.25 gear ratio with open diff) I bought for my '56. It's a spot on match in width and the spring perches are in the right location. No cutting and welding, it will bolt right in. I even have the u-bolts for the drive shaft, u-bolts for the spring perches, wheels, and the emergency brake cables all the way up. It is a complete swap and requires hand tools. If you want pics I can get them. And I am in NC, at Ft Bragg. So not to far from your project.

I went off this article for the direct swap data: F100Central.com - Articles - Rear Suspension - 53-56 F100 Rear Suspension
 
  #22  
Old 05-01-2011, 02:47 PM
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rear end

Yea that would be great if you could show some pics, I would rather do that than the lincoln rear end, the guy said he wasnt sure what type of lincoln it was he thought it was a versailles but he wasnt sure. Let me know! PM me with a price as well, Thanks.
 
  #23  
Old 05-01-2011, 08:17 PM
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I couldn't figure out how to send a PM, so i posted to your visitor message board.
 
  #24  
Old 05-01-2011, 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by jbontke
I couldn't figure out how to send a PM, so i posted to your visitor message board.
Click the persons name in a message and select 'Send Private Message'

Sam
 
  #25  
Old 05-01-2011, 09:41 PM
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rear end

i messaged you back, is there an advantage/disadvantage of having an open diff? and can you convert it to posi-trac? Sorry newb...
 
  #26  
Old 05-02-2011, 08:06 AM
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Originally Posted by sdetweil
Click the persons name in a message and select 'Send Private Message'

Sam
Thanks man, I was wondering where that was. Sent you a private message wakeboarder.
 
  #27  
Old 05-02-2011, 01:08 PM
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Only disadvantage if you are hot rodding. Non posi (Open diff) lets one wheel get the most traction. This was designed to let the rear wheels rotate at different speeds when cornering to prevent tires from scrubbing around turns. Often called "one wheel wonders".

They can easily be converted by replacing the "innards" with the "limited slip" or "posi-trac" unit.
 
  #28  
Old 05-02-2011, 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by wakeboarder32
i messaged you back, is there an advantage/disadvantage of having an open diff? and can you convert it to posi-trac? Sorry newb...
the problem is really with limited slip. In trucks with light rears as daily drivers on slick road surfaces..

the way they work is to clamp both axle halves together with spring and clutch pressure, until the pressure to move separately overcomes the friction force of the clutches.. (thus they are 'limited' in the amount/time they 'slip')..

now comes the problem. around a corner, the outside wheel wants to travel further than the inside wheel, but they are hooked together.. somethings gotta give. on solid axle vehicles, the inside tire skips/grinds/wears cause the outside applies more torque.. on wet roads it just slips eventually,

with the LS, like the solid axle the inside tire just slips.. now stomp on the gas (a little to a lot), and cause the outside tire to slip,
and voila, both do!!.. and the rear end is now sliding sideways..
(I now understand why I smashed by Dads Barracuda into the center divider turning left at the light (just started to rain), when I stomped it to impress my girlfriend... ah to be 17 again!)..

cops cars do NOT have LS to prevent this very thing, and most production cars don't either. too dangerous as a stock feature where most drivers don't understand the side effects. Open Diff spins the tire with the least friction, but the other is dead.. so, at least you have road surface friction, altho no acceleration.

I rebuilt the 8.8 LS in my green truck to add one more friction surface to increase the clamp, and an increased pressure spring.. with 435hp I need both tires to smoke when I stomp it!

As Dave mentioned, replace the carrier guts with an LS version, poof, you have LS. (most diffs cannot be converted)

Sam
 
  #29  
Old 05-02-2011, 02:01 PM
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rear end

Awesome, thanks for the great explanation! I think I will get that 9" off John, Nothing better than something that will fit perfectly, and only a two hour drive! I will probably use it the way it is for now and then get the LS later on, as for me i need both tires to spin too! Thanks guys!
 
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