The ford mechanic told me the rear parking shoes should be adjusted so that they are opened far enough to the point where you can just slid the brake rotor on. He said turn the adjuster to spread the shoes and keep fitting the rotor till it wont slid on anymore. Then back off a 1/8 turn untill the rotor just barely slids on. Ive been doing it this way on my dads 2000 f350 and my 04 f350 for five or six years and never had the ebrake never hold either truck and thats with a 22ft boat on a ramp or me pulling my 10k trailer loaded

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I adjust the e brake shoes the same way I do my trailer brakes. Until they just start to scrape. The high points that are barely scraping wear off quick and the pads will level out. The e brake pads wear kinda uneven regardless due to the pivot point/actuation point. I tighten the adjuster up as much as I can and still get the rotor on easy. Then do the final adjustment thru the port in the back of the caliper bracket with a brake tool I made.

 

Yet another ford owner needing to do the backing plate. I have never seen such a mess!!! I am trying to order these and can not find my application for a 2005 Excursion 4X4 XLT V-10 gas. I see them for up to a 2004 but not the 2005. Help!!! No e brakes in the mean time.

 

The 2004 should be the same, Sterling 10.5. The Excursion was cut short for 2005 as it was the last year. Just check to see if the rear calipers are bolted in the front of rear of the axle. Order the proper shields accordingly. Pick up a complete parking brake hardware kt too.

 

I need to do mine also, been without e-brake for several months. Really dont understand why it can't be a 2 piece backing plate.

 

A two piece would be awesome!!

My calipers are behind the axle. I wonder why they came out with calipers in the front or rear and not just one or the other. Not unless it makes a towing difference or something?

 

A 2 piece plate won't mean anything. The plate would still be sandwiched between the caliper bracket and axle flange.

 

Thx for this step by step and pics, helped me out alot

 

If you don't have a 3-jaw puller you can use a old piece of scrap iron laying around.
Drill some 12mm holes 10cm apart from each other.
I used a 32mm socket to pull against and two bolts of the axle hub.




Poor man's puller

 

Neat little contraption, Now just make it a pusher instead and push on the center part (bearing area) while it's bolted down close to the hub that way it's even instead of swapping sides to get an even pull; But, What you have looks like a good little piece to have that'll work just fine.

 

There isn't much force needed to pull the hub off.

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This is great! I was able to remove my e-brakes without pulling axle, but there was no way to get them back. I suspected I had to pull something to have enough room.

I ordered hub socket from Amazon.. I get a 2 3/8" socket... not big enough, so I got down to Autozone. Nothing. They were clueless. Tried to sell me a $110 set where the biggest socket is the same size I had.

I got to O'Reilly's and they had a 2 5/8" socket that looks like what was used in this forum. I go home... still not big enough!!! I suspect it's a 2 7/8" or maybe a 2 3/4" socket. Called the Ford house... "We don't sell tools, you might try those tool trucks that drive around." Nobody could tell me what size of a socket I needed. I had to re-assemble everything. I guess it was a good test.

I have a choice of 10.5" or 11.x" seals.. I won't know until I'm able to pull that spindle. I expected most of the problems to lie the actual work and not in getting the right tools/parts to do the job.

I ordered another one from Amazon (can't find a good tool place in DFW area - although I know there should be several) where the remarks say it fit a 2000 F250.. so I'm hoping it's the same for my 1999.

TIm.

 

Change parking brake?? Sounds simple. I've done drum brakes for years. HA!

After fighting my rotor for what seemed like 3 hours.. rotating the e-brake adjuster all one way and then the other, I freed it up. Wow, it'll take an arthroscopic surgeon to work this magic. Against my better judgement, I fought with the brakes and got everything removed but couldn't for the life of me figure out how to get the new set back in. Those top springs were killing me. My Haynes manual said nothing about pulling the axle (unless it was in fine print somewhere). I even said to myself that it looks like that hub needed to be pulled to get to it, but who would ever design something that way??? HA!!!

I give up saying I'll just take it to Brakes Plus or somewhere and have them do it. Hours later, unable to concede defeat, I go searching again and find this thread so I order what I thought was the correct spindle nut socket. It comes in, I disassemble and find out the nut is too small. I go in search of the correct ones. The Autozone people looked at me like I was crazy.. they had nothing beyond a 2 2/8" socket. The O'reilly kid told me he couldn't look up tools on their computer.. only parts. The Ford house was open but they told me they don't sell tools.

After researching further, I order another spindle socket and retry this for the 3rd time last saturday. THe spindle nut worked and I get the hub pulled. The seal actually stuck to the spindle and I got it off in 1 piece, but chose to use a new one anyways. I got the new e-brakes installed and reassembled everything before realizing I"d missed a part... the slinger. I went ahead and finished assembly and drove it around with no problems. (e-brake worked great)

After researching what it was and wondering if I really needed it, I decided to bite the bullet and redo it for a 4th time. I got the seal out of the hub, but again; decided to use a new one than reuse it and take a chance. Got my slinger put in and everything rebuilt in about an hour. I think I can do this in my sleep now. Now... this saturday is the other side... I suspect the hardest part will be taking off the rotor and munking with the races.

Tim.

 

What is your truck? Mines a 2005 Dual Read F350, and the spindle nut I got is from amazon, is this what you found to work or was it something else? I have yet to get in there but I know I need to fix the e-brakes and I noticed the other week that the drivers wheel looked a little messy on the back anyway.... Is the nut/socket that I got the right one or would I need something else?

 

Mine is a '99e. This is what worked for me: