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Old 11-12-2014, 11:42 AM
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Parking Brake Backing Plate Installation - WITH PICTURES

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  #166  
Old 09-21-2014, 04:13 PM
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2000 F250, V10, 4.30 rears, 115K, Bought her new June of 2000


Thanks Gunnerdog for the thread and Jasonodsky for the socket part #. You guys made this painless....well except for whacking my thumb with a hammer, been 4 hours and blood is still draining from the hole I had to drill in my nail!
 
  #167  
Old 10-01-2014, 10:15 PM
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Excellent instructions!! I pulled the rotor off my '03 F250 with a huge triple gear puller and a BFH--it could be the original brakes. Really surprised by the little emergency brake behind the hub. Spent the last four hours looking for your tech sheet on how to get the hub off without screwing it all up. Thanks for taking the time to do the post 3-1/2 years ago. It is going to save me the embarrassment of having to tow the truck to the repair shop with $300 of parts. Now all I need is a spindle nut socket.
 
  #168  
Old 11-15-2014, 05:18 PM
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And yet another person thanking the original poster for these instructions. And thanking the poster who had the link to the spindle nut socket on Amazon.

I actually made the mistake of trying to buy the spindle nut socket at some brick and mortar auto parts places. Could not get it at my NAPA store, Autozone nor Advance.

For the first time since I have owned my 1999 350 I have a parking brake. I have a long steep driveway and I spent 15 minutes going up and down and stopping every 10 feet and setting the brake.

I'll add some additional info which hopefully will help someone trying to adjust their parking brake shoes on their SuperDuty. The top of the star wheel turns in to the center of the truck to tighten the shoes. So, standing behind the truck looking at the tailgate the drivers side turns clockwise to tighten and the passenger side turns counter clockwise to tighten.
 
  #169  
Old 12-12-2014, 04:57 PM
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DO not know when you posted the steps for the backing plate removal/replacement. But awesome instructions. Thank You it saved me a ton of work and hassle. Considering Dealer wanted 680.00 a SIDE to replace the backing plates. Thanks Again. Happy Holidays!
 
  #170  
Old 01-19-2015, 07:17 PM
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Thank you!

I'm not sure how much you saved me on that job replacing the dust covers? But i couldn't or wouldn't of even tried without your site! So it was very helpful great job and it was easy to follow! Thanks again.
 
  #171  
Old 01-20-2015, 10:40 AM
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Agreed a great write up Gunnerdog TX! To the tech folder you go!

I dont mean to hijack in any way but simply add to the pool of info. I to suffer from an engineering degree/career...lol I too did this on an 08. Heres some additional info to ponder.

1. Powder or Nickle plate the dam under-engineered brake plates and anchor pins. Never have worry about it again.

2. Put it back together with anti-seize on everything...just in case. If you live in the rust belt this applies to EVERYTHING!

3. Put a dollop of grease on the outside of the backer pins (before you put the caliper back on). Actually fill in the depression with grease. This is handy for trucks that don't exhibit the strange engineering phenomena of premature backer plate rot. Just did brakes on the 11. Plates are clean(checked before purchase it... rear wheel wells too). Applied liberal dollop of grease to both pins on both sides. Should keep the rot rats at bay for a while.

4. There is a couple of products you can apply to the backers if you didn't plate them or they are in good shape now and you want to keep them that way, cuz replacement is such a fun task.... A shot of WD-40 on the inner and outer surfaces does wonders every 6-12 months. Same for LPS3 and fluid film. This also forces us **** engineer types to re-grease the caliper slider surfaces and check the caliper pins annually.

Gunnerdog what are those calipers your running? Im looking for high quality fronts and rears.

Jerry $1380 for 2 backing plates. That should be illegal!
 
  #172  
Old 05-16-2015, 07:44 AM
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Gunnerdog, great write up!!! Your thread has been up for about 4 years and people are still using it.
I've trolled the FTE sight for years, this post encouraged me to sign up.
I'm new to the diesel world (bought my 06' 4 weeks ago) and will refer back to this site as there seem to be people with some good input.

I do have 2 questions for those that posted, 1)where do you live that your backing plates look like that? I live in north central Texas and mine are not rotted (knock on wood)
2) Your axle socket, what is the outside dimension? I have one i did front hubs on a 79 bronco. I'm interested to know if they're the same/not interested to take it apart to see.
 
  #173  
Old 05-16-2015, 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by TeachNlive4ever
I do have 2 questions for those that posted, 1)where do you live that your backing plates look like that? I live in north central Texas and mine are not rotted (knock on wood)
They live in the rust belt states where they salt the roads for winter.
 
  #174  
Old 05-20-2015, 04:18 PM
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Anywhere where salt is laid down in the winter months. Next set I put on will be nickle plated or powder coated. I smeared grease on the 11s and packed the depression where the show anchors live. That should keepem good for a long time?!?
 
  #175  
Old 05-20-2015, 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by TeachNlive4ever
1)where do you live that your backing plates look like that? I live in north central Texas and mine are not rotted (knock on wood)
Leave the barren dry tundra of north central Texas and you will find moisture which leads to rust. Just saying....
 
  #176  
Old 05-20-2015, 05:17 PM
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Nope Nope Nope...
I'll take dry, hot and barren (no so barren out east) over cold and wet EVERY time.

I think my backing plates like it here too...
 
  #177  
Old 05-20-2015, 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by droldsmorland
Next set I put on will be nickle plated or powder coated.
Powder coat is garbage and gives very little protection from the salt. Either put KBS or POR15 on the plates. Putting on a thick coat of grease over the whole plate is better then powder coat.
 
  #178  
Old 05-20-2015, 05:48 PM
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Meh, or replace them every 100k and be done with it. Sounds like a lot of work and a lot of mess with grease all over.
 
  #179  
Old 05-20-2015, 06:16 PM
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No mess at all. The backing plate don't rotate with the tire. My dad did it yrs ago on his truck and the top layer actually was harder then then the grease underneath. Them things never rusted the the rest of the truck did.
 
  #180  
Old 05-20-2015, 06:42 PM
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No way, the backing plates don't rotate?!?!

You still end up with grease all over everything....
 


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