1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Dentsides Ford Truck
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What was a 5 year project may now become a 5 week project... here's the story:

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  #61  
Old 04-19-2011, 08:49 PM
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changing valve seals is very easy i just did it this weekend on my bronco with 351m. didnt buy the air cylinder pressure tool. took one of the old spark plugs n beat out the ceramic and core. taped it and threaded a male air tool fitting in it. verry cheap and works great! i just did one valve at a time so not to mix up rockers n bolts. Note dont use the original bolt that came out of the rocker to install valve seal tool. my bolt size was a 3/8 coarse thread. bent 2 bolts with tool so i was glad i didnt use orig rocker bolts. some of the valve keepers were stuck on the valve ends so just taped on the big washer at top of the springs n the keepers popped loose. sorry for long reply but thought description would help some first timers like me.
 
  #62  
Old 04-19-2011, 08:53 PM
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Thanks! I'm getting encouraged.
 
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Old 04-19-2011, 11:14 PM
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Originally Posted by 78srgr8
changing valve seals is very easy i just did it this weekend on my bronco with 351m. didnt buy the air cylinder pressure tool. took one of the old spark plugs n beat out the ceramic and core. taped it and threaded a male air tool fitting in it. verry cheap and works great!
Making your own tools. Can't beat that with a stick.
 
  #64  
Old 04-20-2011, 11:42 AM
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302 UPDATE:

OK, so my friend and neighbor is in the Autoparts business and has loads of good, reliable connections in different disciplines. He has a machine shop that he trusts with his life to do a rebuild (longblock) for $800-1200 that will allow us to "accessorize" with intake, carb, headers etc.

Together we are going to pull the engine and deliver it to the shop. He thinks it is a viable, strong engine that will be built good as new (of course, until you inspect parts, one never knows, but that is his opinion).

I also priced the 10118 Painless Harness (Ford F Series Truck-specific, with all new switches) at retail: $812-1018 bucks depending on dealer. He thinks he can get me a wholesale price on the harness, and will check that today.

Between a rebuilt 302, a new wiring harness, new fuel lines, new brakes...this baby will be seriously road worthy. Cosmetics can wait.
 
  #65  
Old 04-20-2011, 07:23 PM
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Next Steps:

1) Pull front clip
2) Order parts
3) Pull engine and send to shop for rebuild
4) Carefully remove wire harnesses with lots of pics and documentation
5) Remove fuel tank, fuel lines, and brake lines
6) Power wash everything
7) Inspect
8) Weld in patch over driver's side floor pan hole
9) Wire wheel and prep for chassis paint, and paint
10) Install new brake lines and parts
11) Install fuel lines
12) Install new harness
13) Install motor and new radiator
14) Install safety gear (shoulder belts, LED taillights, headrests)
15) Drive.

 
  #66  
Old 04-20-2011, 08:45 PM
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Just some of my experience, I pulled the tank(s) on my 78 before I pulled my harness, it made it easier to move around under there (with bed off I could sit up straight, which helped my back the next morning) and it was easier for me to get the wires from around my tank. (I got fat stubby arms and fingers)

It may not be that bad for you since you only have one tank, but just a suggestion.
 
  #67  
Old 04-20-2011, 09:11 PM
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Much appreciated....looks like I've got good access either way, and I probably won't do everything in exactly the order I laid out, just trying to make sure I cover all bases.

Plan is to do major disassembly this weekend! Woohoo!
 
  #68  
Old 04-20-2011, 09:44 PM
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Dissassembly is my favorite part.

Mom told me she either had to buy me toys that could not be taken apart or Toys that were ment to be taken apart.... I've been doing it since I was old enough to work a set of pliers

Now if I could figure out how to put most of it back together....
I came up with a lil saying a while back: "any dumb *** can take something apart, but it takes a smart *** to put it back together"

So make sure your a smart *** before destruction! Lol
 
  #69  
Old 04-20-2011, 09:51 PM
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id redo the motor myself and brakes r easy and underbody it to prevent rust u can do it urself with a spray gun and an air compressor
 
  #70  
Old 04-24-2011, 12:38 PM
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UPDATE:

OK, got the front clip pulled, with the help of my friends ....as I am still one hurting puppy from the accident. I feel useless being the guy to hand tools to the other guys, but I accept my fate and appreciate the help!

Here are a couple pics from the clip removal:









About 3 hours, nothing too bad!

More to come....
 
  #71  
Old 04-24-2011, 12:40 PM
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Now I'm just a cab removal away from a frame-off! I think I might bite the bullet and pull the cab after we get the motor out and sent to the machine shop (or maybe before we pull the motor, depends on time and friend-availability
 
  #72  
Old 04-24-2011, 12:56 PM
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Pulling the cab, or at least sliding it back would make it a ton easier to get to the transmission....
 
  #73  
Old 04-24-2011, 01:19 PM
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If it were mine, I'd have gotten an explorer 5.0 long block and stabbed that in with a 4v intake and some decent exhaust.
 
  #74  
Old 04-30-2011, 12:23 PM
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Friday Night Fun:

I'm getting good at supervising! Once again, my friends came to the rescue

We rolled the cab off the frame (well, they did, I gave direction and identified what needed to be done, thanks to this wonderful web site). Don't let anyone tell you you can't do anything on these trucks, they are SIMPLE. I never realized how uncomplicated they were until you see them laid bare. Here are a few pics. Engine comes out today to go off to the machine shop. A different set of friends helps me with that one.




 
  #75  
Old 04-30-2011, 01:20 PM
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All i can say is WOW! I will be watching this build it looks awesome. I cant express my sympathy enough to you for the wreck but hey it looks like it is going to turn out for the very best in the long run.
 


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