Well no go on the binder rims - they're only a 5 lug. Still 20" though. Is it possible to cut out the centers and weld the fords in? More trouble than it's worth? Here's pics, are these safe rims? It looks like that outside ring could fly off easier than the widowmakers.

1952 IHC L160 Front Rim:


1952 IHC L160 Rear:

 

Goodyear lock ring. Lock ring style wheels can be dangerous too, but nowhere near as bad as widowmakers. Pulling and moving centers is possible and is done commercially by companies like American Wheel Specialist. They, however, are set up with all the industrial equipment to ensure balance, weld integrity, etc. Plus they have insurance to cover the liability. You'd be SOL is one that you welded came apart. Stu

 

F60 = F600.

VIN engine code C = 1961/64 292 2V (dizzy behind carburetor) / (VIN engine code A = 1964/65 330 2V Medium Duty FT engine / VIN engine code C = 1966/72 330 2V Medium Duty FT engine).

G = Chicago IL Assembly Plant.

470691 = 1964, Assembled November 1963.

Addenum to previously decoded Warranty Plate:

F602 = F600, 20,000 lbs. GVWR

181: 1 = Light Grey Crush Vinyl & Light Grey Rib Pattern Vinyl / 81 = 81A Standard Cab.

55 = St. Louis MO Ford District Sales Office, where the original selling dealer ordered the truck from.

This truck was not a special order, it was "bought off the lot." If it was a Domestic Special Order, the DSO code would be 6 numbers instead of just 2.

Without knowing what carb this engine has on it now, there is no way I can list the carb kit part number.

Look on the base of the carb for a stamped ID number (similar to this: C5TF-AA), post what it is.

If the tri-angular shaped FoMoCo carb ID tag is still there (bolted to the airhorn as original), post the ID number from it (will be the same as the stamped ID number).

* 1958/64 FE's, 1964/66 and some 1967 FT's have rounded valve covers without holes for oilcap/smog valve and have an oil fill tube on the right (passenger) side.

1965/76 FE's, some 1967 FT's, all 1968/78 FT's have pent roofed shaped valve covers w/holes for oil cap/smog valve. There is no engine oil fill tube.

FT engines came with "Rams Horn" exhaust manifolds, FE's did not. Look for an ID number cast onto the exhaust manifolds, similar to this: C3AE-9430-AA.

FT engines: 330 2V M/D, 330 2V H/D, 330 2V X/D (1973/78), 361 2V, 361 4V (1976/78), 391 4V // The following were used mid/late 1970's: 359 = detuned for smog 361, 389 = detuned fo smog 391.
This only applies to FE engines installed in specific 1965/66's / FT's and these specific 1965/66 FE's have an L shaped bracket that bolts to the block, the upper/lower insulators attach to it. No timing cover has motor mounts bolted to it.

C4TZ-6019-D .. Timing Cover-Original applications: 1964/72 330 2V M/D / 1965 F100/250 352 2V 4WD / 1965/66 F350 352 2V / 1966 F250 352 2V 4WD.

All 1964/78 FT's (except as installed in LT/LTS) use the same front rubber insulators, regardless of what the timing cover is. Two in the center, one upper (TFAA-6038-A), one lower (TFAA-6039-A).

These specific FE's used these exact same rubber insulators as the FT's (except LT/LTS). Two in the center, one upper, one lower.

1965/76 F100/250 FE 2WD / 1966 F100 FE 4WD / 1967/76 F100/250 FE 4WD / 1967/76 FE F350 used two rubber insulators, one on either side of the engine block. The timing cover is: C2AZ-6019-A.

1958/64 FE engine blocks have a different rubber insulator bolt pattern than 1965/76 FE engines. First use of FE engines in F100/350's: 1965.

 

Makes sense, thanks. Guess I'm now on the hunt for some new rims. I've got a couple friends, one works in a tire shop that does a lot of farm work and the other in a truck fab shop so maybe between the two of them I can come up w/ some cheap rims. There's also a place about an hour away that specializes in restoring old military trucks, so might call them and see what they've got. Anybody in Kansas got some rims for sale? I'm afraid shipping would kill any other deal. Thanks for the help, w/out this place I would have thought the widowmakers were safer than the lockring style!

 

Thanks Bill! You're a wealth of knowledge! I didn't even know 292's came in that truck, but it doesn't matter cuz that aint what's in there now. I'm pretty sure the carb tag is still there, I'll look tonight and let you know. I'll also try to look for the other stuff you mentioned and maybe we can nail this down.

 

You're right, shipping on wheels, especially with tires is pretty high, but don't let that thought discourage you from looking beyond the local area. I had the 5 lug widowmakers and replaced them last summer. It was a pretty good hunting expedition, but I finally came across a good deal on Craigslist, that involed an 1800 mile trip to get them, but it was worth it. We discussed this on the 48-60 forum here https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...crap-heap.html

 

The six lug should be much easier to find locally. Pretty much all the manufacturers used the 6 x 8.75" pattern. As well as the military, UPS, etc. Stu

 

There is a medium/large truck salvage yard near Waco, TX that charges $30 each for 20" lock ring rims with the 6 x 8.75" stud pilot bolt pattern.

 

Fomoco tag was still there. "CBTF K" I didn't see any numbers in there, is that possible? Below those letters in smaller font was "B 3KD"

Dang, wish I was closer. Hopefully I can find some that cheap.

 

Look at the carb ID tag numbers prefix again, because there is no such thing as CBTF. The 2nd digit of the prefix is a number.

It cannot be C8TF-K, because this is a 1965/68 240 I-6 1V carburetor. So, you either read the tag wrong, or someone stuck the wrong ID tag on the carb, which is prolly a 2V.

If the tag reads C9TF-K, this is a 1969 F100/350 360 2V Auto-Lite carb, and this is its kit:

D4AZ-9A586-A .. 2V Auto-Lite/Motorcraft Carburetor Kit (Motorcraft CT-499D) / Available from Ford and a gazillion autoparts stores.

Fits all 1962/74 Auto-Lite/Motorcraft 2V carbs installed in Passenger Cars, trucks, 1966/74 Bronco's and 1969/74 Econolines.

The 1975/79 2V Motorcraft carb kits are different and there are FIVE different kits. One difference, the accelerator pump is larger in diameter.

Beginning in 1970, Ford installed a choke pull-off diaphram (D0AZ-9J549-C) in these 2V carbs which mounts into the front of the airhorn.

All that's visible to the naked eye is its L shaped rod that pokes out from the pull-off's diaphram cover.

No choke pull-off diaphram: The carb is from 1962/69.

 

Ok thanks, I'll check it again. It wasn't stamped that cleanly but I thought I was reading it right. I'll try to get a pic tonight and look for the bracket off the diaphram.

 

Ok, how about a C3TF-K? Anything for that?


Also, not seeing any L-shaped rods, but maybe I'm not looking in the right place?

Passenger Side:


Front:


Drivers Side:

 

The choke pull-off diaphram was not installed in these 2V carbs until 1970, so you won't see one or its L shaped rod on a 1962/69 carburetor.

ID number: C3TF-K = Ford part number: C3TZ-9510-U .. 2V Auto-Lite/Motorcraft Carburetor (Motorcraft CA-271) / Obsolete

B = Assembly Plant Code / 3KD = Assembled the 4th week (D) of October (K), 1963 (3).

Original applications: 1963/64 F100/600 292 2V. This is prolly the original carb that came with the 292 2V engine your '64 truck originally came with.

D4AZ-9A586-A (replaced C2AZ-9A586-A & B) .. 2V Auto-Lite/Motorcraft Carburetor Kit (Motorcraft CT-499D) / See post #25 for this kits myriad applications.

 

Thanks Bill - Reps to you! Glad it's a common one. I'll get the kit and hopefully install it soon and let everyone know if it helps the higher speed cutout.

 

Hello everyone!
I thought I'd post my door info in here to get a few Specifics on mine:
F60BK372436
WB: 156
Color: B
Model: F600
Body: 81A
Trans: F
Axle: F2
GVW - 17000
Cert Net HP: 132@3800
DSO: 532746

I bought the truck off of the original owner's widow (a family friend of my Wife's Grandmother) replete with original Owner's manual, dump bed Owner's manual and other documentation. I know that it has a 262I6/4spd/2spd rear driveline. What I don't know is what axle ratios it runs. I am currently hunting for a rebuild kit/accelerator pump connecting rod (old plastic one snapped). It runs decently (other than the accelerator pump not working) but seems to have a lot of noise under acceleration and a bit of a knock. I know that the 262 isn't the most common motor, so if it can't easily be maintained, it will be replaced by either a 300I6, a 307 V8 I already own, a 302 or a Cummins. Can anyone decode the rest of the truck for me?

The Carb tag reads: C2TE LA 2LD. I can't read the initial letters stamped on the air horn, but the rest of the stamping is either R1968 or R1958 (kind of fuzzy whether it's a 6 or a 5). I love the truck and I plan to keep it, use it and slowly resto-mod it. Eventually it WILL be diesel powered but that's more than my E5 budget allows for currently.
Thanks!