Sorry... Missed this one. When it cools off a little I'll take a couple of measurements.
Dan

 

Jbontke,
What year 302 is that? I am looking at the exhaust manifolds specifically. Trying to get some to fit my 1950 F3 with a 302 and Toyota PS. I got some blockhugger headers from Speedway, but the fit is a little close to the box, even when I shift it over more towards passenger side.
Randy

 

I am interested as well...

Randy

 

The 302 I have is from a 98 Explorer. It has the GT40P heads and the headers are unique to the heads because the spark plug angle is changed, thus requiring unique headers.

I think that the 97 1/4 and previous 302 engines should have the standard headers that should fit most 302 heads (not 100% on all heads). I know the 86-93 mustang had some short block hugging headers and you can get aftermarket replacements that are short and flow better for cheap.

Here is a pic:

http://static.summitracing.com/globa...SM-70-1067.jpg

I hope that helps.

 

Im getting ready to install the same motor mount bar and the tubular trans mount bar you showed, But Im doing this in a 46 ford truck. Ive got alot of good ideas and advice by reading this. I'll try to put some pics up and if I come across any helpfull advice I'll post that also. Thanks Scott

 

Alright, after a stretch of down time, I finally finished up the cross member modifications. What I did was take the cross member I bought from F100 Central and modified it to sit lower in the cross member.

 

And to catch everyone up, its a 1998 explorer 5.0L engine. I measured a tonne to be sure this was as square as possible.

The mounts on the cross member look off center, but they are correct. I learned that the form 302 has off set engine mounts. I measured the frame many times to be sure I was mounting everything squared and centered. All checks out. As it sits, I am +1.5 degrees from being dead level with the frame. Something I can adjust for with the trans mount.

I double checked the axel movement and it is taking a trajectory between the oil pan and cross member. It believe will hit the bump stops before the pan. Cross my fingers.

 

Sorry to revive a old thread - but how come you didn't bolt the cross member towards the top of the frame? Rather than the bottom of the frame? I have the same cross member that I'm about to install, and I planned on putting the cross member towards the top of the frame, for clearance reasons. (from the front axle to pan)
Thank you

 

Mainly so I did not have to modify the cab floor to clear the transmission. The 4R70W transmission is beefy. Plus going lower allowed me to set the engine back more in the frame. I was opting for less weight hanging over the ties too. I still have good ground clearance. And so far it seems that this will work well.

 

I'll 2nd keeping the engine as close to the fire wall as possible. Mine is but weight on the front axle is 2500 and only 1200 on the rear (this may increase a bit when I get the bed installed). Traction is horrible so I'm adding posi trac. Anything to help the weight distribution will help.

 

Thanks for the info. I plan on dropping a 302 and C4 in mine. The C4 is a bit smaller than the 4r70w you installed so I'm thinking I should be fine. I actually got the same f100central cross member you have. I want to put a SIDS drop axle in, and lower the front down 2 to 3". Hopefully I can make it work, and still have plenty of suspension travel.

 

Let me know how your cross member fits. Someone else with an non-roller block 302 using the same cross member had theirs fit perfectly. It left me wondering why I had such a hard time.

 

Any progress on this build?

 

Yes, the cross member is installed. I have gone through the front suspension replacing bushings in the leaf springs, cleaned up the drag link (blasted and painted), new tire rod ends, PMT 3" drop axle, new king pins, blasted an painted almost every part on the front, 11" disc conversion, just got in new front u-bolts. I hope to put it all together this weekend and have something i can turn with the steering wheel. I still need to add fluid to the steering box, hopefully its not too work out. And i can check my camber and ride height. then i can set the rear pinion angle and weld up the axle mounts. Its a slow, slow process, but that's what I can do with my budget. Next is the brake system.

 

Thanks for the update. Post some pic's when you can.