Motor Cleaning
#1
#2
Check your Diesel Supplement to the Owners Manual. Here is what is posted for 2004:
Engines are more efficient when they are clean because grease and dirt
Buildup keeps the engine warmer than normal.
When washing:
Take care when using a power washer to clean the engine - 1000 psi maximum! The high-pressure fluid could penetrate the sealed parts and cause damage.
Never apply anything to any exposed belts in the engine compartment, including the belt dressing.
Do not spray a hot engine with cold water to avoid cracking the engine block or other engine components.
Spray Motorcraft Engine Shampoo and Degreaser (ZC-20) on all parts that require cleaning and pressure rinse clean.
Never wash or rinse the engine while it is running; water in the running engine may cause internal damage.
Cover the highlighted areas to prevent water damage when cleaning the engine.
Cover the batteries, air filter assembly and fusebox, according to the pictures.
IMO - You really want to protect your PCM (to the right of your drivers side battery - it should already have a plastic cover protecting it, but I would cover it up some more w/ plastic). Also, cover both batteries, the Fuel Injection Control Module "FICM" (silver box at the back of the engine under the degas bottle), the glow plug control module "GPCM" (under alternator), and the relay box (drivers side - back corner of engine area). I also cover my alternator as good as possible and also the starter.
After the rinsing, the engine needs to be blown with compressed air to get any noticeable water off it, then, it needs to idle for 15 minutes up to operating temp before being driven. This basically gives it a protective clean barrier, as opposed to new dirt which will start to accumulate new residue.
Here is a post from another forum - the original "poster" has won some car shows w/ his engine being the cleanest I have ever seen:
Do not leave the engine running. Do not to spray water on a hot engine. Here is the best way to do it, and the results prove themselves:
1) Let engine cool to below 130° ECT.
2) Lightly spray engine off with water.
3) SOAK it with Purple Power (not Simple Green) and scrub everything down.
4) Soak again with Purple Power
5) Let sit for a few minutes and then rinse off.
6) Dry off engine with a towel.
7) SOAK it with Meguiar's Tire Foam (not Shine).
8) Let soak for a few minutes, then wipe off excess.
Engines are more efficient when they are clean because grease and dirt
Buildup keeps the engine warmer than normal.
When washing:
Take care when using a power washer to clean the engine - 1000 psi maximum! The high-pressure fluid could penetrate the sealed parts and cause damage.
Never apply anything to any exposed belts in the engine compartment, including the belt dressing.
Do not spray a hot engine with cold water to avoid cracking the engine block or other engine components.
Spray Motorcraft Engine Shampoo and Degreaser (ZC-20) on all parts that require cleaning and pressure rinse clean.
Never wash or rinse the engine while it is running; water in the running engine may cause internal damage.
Cover the highlighted areas to prevent water damage when cleaning the engine.
Cover the batteries, air filter assembly and fusebox, according to the pictures.
IMO - You really want to protect your PCM (to the right of your drivers side battery - it should already have a plastic cover protecting it, but I would cover it up some more w/ plastic). Also, cover both batteries, the Fuel Injection Control Module "FICM" (silver box at the back of the engine under the degas bottle), the glow plug control module "GPCM" (under alternator), and the relay box (drivers side - back corner of engine area). I also cover my alternator as good as possible and also the starter.
After the rinsing, the engine needs to be blown with compressed air to get any noticeable water off it, then, it needs to idle for 15 minutes up to operating temp before being driven. This basically gives it a protective clean barrier, as opposed to new dirt which will start to accumulate new residue.
Here is a post from another forum - the original "poster" has won some car shows w/ his engine being the cleanest I have ever seen:
Do not leave the engine running. Do not to spray water on a hot engine. Here is the best way to do it, and the results prove themselves:
1) Let engine cool to below 130° ECT.
2) Lightly spray engine off with water.
3) SOAK it with Purple Power (not Simple Green) and scrub everything down.
4) Soak again with Purple Power
5) Let sit for a few minutes and then rinse off.
6) Dry off engine with a towel.
7) SOAK it with Meguiar's Tire Foam (not Shine).
8) Let soak for a few minutes, then wipe off excess.
#3
I have used two methods...
1) I have used "Simple-Green" cleaner (let soeak) and then sprayed/flushed the heck out of my motor compartment.
or
2) I haver gone to the "do it yourself" carwash and used their "engine degreaser" option and sprayed down the engine compartment and let soak while I then washed the rest of my truck. When I rinsed the entire truck, I then obviously did the engine compartment as well. The car wash pressure washers are not that strong if you do not just concentaret your spray and really just flush it clean... and not try and "power wash" the engine compartment... just let the water flush away the cleaner as it will have disolved the grease and grime.
Lets face it... the motor gets wet, snow and rain get in there.. so it is not as "delicate" as some think it is... just don't hold the pressure washer right on it, but rather a nice soft, rinse and stand back 1 foot or so when doing it.
Works for me and I do it probably twice a year... especially in the winter and again in the Spring in order to remove road salts and grime.. the rest of the year it really doesn't get that dirty (for me at least).
Good luck,
1) I have used "Simple-Green" cleaner (let soeak) and then sprayed/flushed the heck out of my motor compartment.
or
2) I haver gone to the "do it yourself" carwash and used their "engine degreaser" option and sprayed down the engine compartment and let soak while I then washed the rest of my truck. When I rinsed the entire truck, I then obviously did the engine compartment as well. The car wash pressure washers are not that strong if you do not just concentaret your spray and really just flush it clean... and not try and "power wash" the engine compartment... just let the water flush away the cleaner as it will have disolved the grease and grime.
Lets face it... the motor gets wet, snow and rain get in there.. so it is not as "delicate" as some think it is... just don't hold the pressure washer right on it, but rather a nice soft, rinse and stand back 1 foot or so when doing it.
Works for me and I do it probably twice a year... especially in the winter and again in the Spring in order to remove road salts and grime.. the rest of the year it really doesn't get that dirty (for me at least).
Good luck,
#4
#7
I will not argue the "concept" that the engine bay gets wet in rain. The lower parts certainly do, but the upper areas really do not get much moisture. Water certainly is not getting on my FICM or PCM connectors (or even the alternator) from driving in the rain! Especially not like a pressure washer stream, or even a hose nozzle flow. Regardless, the main issue is to protect connectors, harnesses, electrical boots, etc against a "driving" water force and (IMO) cleaning chemical exposure. It is very easy to cover the components I mentioned, but if you don't have the 5 minutes to do so, then so be it.
You do not need to use a pressure washer to clean the engine and it is of no significant inconvenience to avoid using one (and if you do, keeping it at a distance far enough for the pressure to dissipate is very easy).
It is a matter of being cautious. There are MANY posts on connector and harness failures and weaknesses. No sense inviting issues IMO.
As far as Simple Green goes, at least some of their products state to not let it sit on aluminum very long. If you feel you can apply it and then rinse it from all the nooks and crannys, then go for it. For me, there are numerous products that do not warn about this and are very effective cleaners. The "Orange" cleaning products work well enough (what I have used). I heard others talk about Greased Lightening, but do not know anything about it. Even if they say they are safe, I do not like the chemicals contacting electrical connectors, etc. for long.
You do not need to use a pressure washer to clean the engine and it is of no significant inconvenience to avoid using one (and if you do, keeping it at a distance far enough for the pressure to dissipate is very easy).
It is a matter of being cautious. There are MANY posts on connector and harness failures and weaknesses. No sense inviting issues IMO.
As far as Simple Green goes, at least some of their products state to not let it sit on aluminum very long. If you feel you can apply it and then rinse it from all the nooks and crannys, then go for it. For me, there are numerous products that do not warn about this and are very effective cleaners. The "Orange" cleaning products work well enough (what I have used). I heard others talk about Greased Lightening, but do not know anything about it. Even if they say they are safe, I do not like the chemicals contacting electrical connectors, etc. for long.
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#9
Just saw this at the local home improvement, states "safe on all metal surfaces" and "automotive or recreational vehicle cleaning and degreasing".... electrical, who knows?
Link: Simple Green Pro HD
Link: Simple Green Pro HD
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