Tips on Painting my truck?
#1
Tips on Painting my truck?
I have done some minor painting in the past, but now I'm up for a big project. My goal is to degrease my cab (which is stripped), sand, prime and paint. What is the best grit of sand paper to start out with and get ready for prime? I have minor to no rust. What grits are needed after prime is finished? and then clear? Just want some basic steps so I can get some paint laid on my dent. Thanks guys.
#2
#4
Ya. That should be fine. Any dents that you sand out and fix where bare metal comes through needs self etch. The one thing that I can't emphasize enough is..... PREPERATION is key to a good job. Make sure to Wax and Grease remove after every step before priming. Don't cheap out on clear coat. The color shop DupliColor clear isn't good enough in my eyes. If you want a good clear for a decent price check out Nason.
#7
Depends on how big the dent is... the bigger the dent the less you want to use icing. Think of it this way. Larger dent to smaller dent. Fiberglass>Bondo>Spot Putty (Icing). Usually spot putty is much easier to work with but you generally don't want to fill a dent with it, use it to get the finish you would like sort of as a finishing putty.
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#10
I am not sure I agree with everything posted. I am no pro but I am pretty sure that an epoxy primer is used on bare metal and etching primer can be used on top of other things like your body work. I have blasted my truck to bare metal and EVERY body shop I talked to (only 3 of them) said the same thing. Epoxy prime bare metal and something like 2K primer on top of body work. The reason I was told was that epoxy primer is a sealer and is tough enough to sand with 180 grit and your body filler can go right on top. I would say to stay away from bondo brand, I have seen it go bad and in my opinion ONLY 3M Gold is the stuff to use. (that is what the other 3 body shops use as well) Aside from that, I agree with everything mentioned above.
#11
The process is different depending on the type of job you want. It sounds like you have a decent paint job to go over the top of, if so sand it with 220 only until it is evenly de-glossed, hit any spots you go through to bare metal with an epoxy or etch primer. 2K prime, then sand with 320 - 400 grit paper dry. With most base/clear systems apply your basecoat, wait till it flashes, then apply your clearcoat.
Evercoat 156 is a great body filler (bondo), catalysed icing is great for the last skim on a body repair or small dings. Nason is lower leval dupont, but works pretty well. I prefer PPG, but Dupont, Sikkens, Sherwin Williams, Martin Senour, etc... all make good products.
Evercoat 156 is a great body filler (bondo), catalysed icing is great for the last skim on a body repair or small dings. Nason is lower leval dupont, but works pretty well. I prefer PPG, but Dupont, Sikkens, Sherwin Williams, Martin Senour, etc... all make good products.
#13
The OP wanted to know ''what grits before primer, what grit after primer,
and what filler to use''. How much more clear could my post be?
Click my signature if you think I don't know anything about prep or paint.
and what filler to use''. How much more clear could my post be?
Click my signature if you think I don't know anything about prep or paint.
#14
The process is different depending on the type of job you want. It sounds like you have a decent paint job to go over the top of, if so sand it with 220 only until it is evenly de-glossed, hit any spots you go through to bare metal with an epoxy or etch primer. 2K prime, then sand with 320 - 400 grit paper dry. With most base/clear systems apply your basecoat, wait till it flashes, then apply your clearcoat.
Evercoat 156 is a great body filler (bondo), catalysed icing is great for the last skim on a body repair or small dings. Nason is lower leval dupont, but works pretty well. I prefer PPG, but Dupont, Sikkens, Sherwin Williams, Martin Senour, etc... all make good products.
Evercoat 156 is a great body filler (bondo), catalysed icing is great for the last skim on a body repair or small dings. Nason is lower leval dupont, but works pretty well. I prefer PPG, but Dupont, Sikkens, Sherwin Williams, Martin Senour, etc... all make good products.
The OP also said "minor to no rust", those spots will need to be taken back to bare metal, treated with a metal conditioner (can't think of the proper name) before etch.
Degreasing is always a good thing, just make sure you wash it all off, dry completly and wipe down with a Wax and Grease remover before sanding.
To prep the primer for paint, i prefer 180 dry block then 600-800 wet sand. (guessing grades are the same?)
As for products i prefer PPG, but anything from the major companies lower end are good value for money.
And we want photos when your finished.
#15
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Nice work in the sig ...
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2006powerstroke90
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11-01-2011 12:02 AM