i hate my f*&$@$! truck!!!!!!!!!!!!
#1
i hate my f*&$@$! truck!!!!!!!!!!!!
honestly, i have had to re-seal my thermostat housing 3 time's!!! wtf?!
first time i just used a gasket....leaked while i put the liquid back in....
second time used same gasket and blue RTV (it was recomended ) didn't leak untill a few days later but noteven that bad, just a real small puddle on the ground. Well needless to say that small leak is unexceptable so i removed the belt, unbolted the powersteering and ac compressor bracket and the stupid intake hose'es and top radiator hose so i could do it one last time..... nope.. used no gasket because it teared when i removed it, i figured the rtv was enough to do the job as long as i put a **** load on. i let it sit overnight before adding coolant.. just walked out there to add fluid before i go to work and its rushing out . i hate this truck!
honestly, this is the easiest thing in the world to do.....why is it so hard?! lol /rant
first time i just used a gasket....leaked while i put the liquid back in....
second time used same gasket and blue RTV (it was recomended ) didn't leak untill a few days later but noteven that bad, just a real small puddle on the ground. Well needless to say that small leak is unexceptable so i removed the belt, unbolted the powersteering and ac compressor bracket and the stupid intake hose'es and top radiator hose so i could do it one last time..... nope.. used no gasket because it teared when i removed it, i figured the rtv was enough to do the job as long as i put a **** load on. i let it sit overnight before adding coolant.. just walked out there to add fluid before i go to work and its rushing out . i hate this truck!
honestly, this is the easiest thing in the world to do.....why is it so hard?! lol /rant
#2
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#5
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Charles Town, W bygod Va
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Is it a steel housing or aluminium? On the steel ones the ears get bend down and cause it to leak, I always bend them up some so when you draw the bolts down it straightens them out putting more clamping force on the center. If its aluminum check both surfaces with a straightedge.
Last edited by bashby; 04-09-2011 at 09:10 AM. Reason: My keyboar is f'ing up
#6
Is it a steel housing or aluminium? On the steel ones the ears get bend idown and cause it to leak, I always bend them up some so when you draw the bolts down it straightens them out putting more clamping force on the center. If its aluminum check both surfaces with a straightedge.
#7
How I do thermostats (Ford vertically mounted, anyway):
1. Scrape all gasket/sealer remnants off housing and block CAREFULLY with a razor blade. Do not gouge either surface.
2. Get new thermostat (OEM 195º), gasket and some HI-TACK gasket sealant.
3. Twist-lock thermostat into housing (some claim they don't, mine always have).
4. Apply thin layer of gasket sealant to thermostat housing and bed gasket evenly into sealant.
5. Walk away for an hour to let sealant set.
6. Reinstall thermostat/housing/gasket assembly onto block. Gasket sealant not necessary at this step, but optional.
7. Let sit for a few more hours before re-filling coolant.
After I started following this process, it works the first time every time. Get a new housing if yours is cracked, bent or gouged.
Jason
1. Scrape all gasket/sealer remnants off housing and block CAREFULLY with a razor blade. Do not gouge either surface.
2. Get new thermostat (OEM 195º), gasket and some HI-TACK gasket sealant.
3. Twist-lock thermostat into housing (some claim they don't, mine always have).
4. Apply thin layer of gasket sealant to thermostat housing and bed gasket evenly into sealant.
5. Walk away for an hour to let sealant set.
6. Reinstall thermostat/housing/gasket assembly onto block. Gasket sealant not necessary at this step, but optional.
7. Let sit for a few more hours before re-filling coolant.
After I started following this process, it works the first time every time. Get a new housing if yours is cracked, bent or gouged.
Jason
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#8
How I do thermostats (Ford vertically mounted, anyway):
1. Scrape all gasket/sealer remnants off housing and block CAREFULLY with a razor blade. Do not gouge either surface.
2. Get new thermostat (OEM 195º), gasket and some HI-TACK gasket sealant.
3. Twist-lock thermostat into housing (some claim they don't, mine always have).
4. Apply thin layer of gasket sealant to thermostat housing and bed gasket evenly into sealant.
5. Walk away for an hour to let sealant set.
6. Reinstall thermostat/housing/gasket assembly onto block. Gasket sealant not necessary at this step, but optional.
7. Let sit for a few more hours before re-filling coolant.
After I started following this process, it works the first time every time. Get a new housing if yours is cracked, bent or gouged.
Jason
1. Scrape all gasket/sealer remnants off housing and block CAREFULLY with a razor blade. Do not gouge either surface.
2. Get new thermostat (OEM 195º), gasket and some HI-TACK gasket sealant.
3. Twist-lock thermostat into housing (some claim they don't, mine always have).
4. Apply thin layer of gasket sealant to thermostat housing and bed gasket evenly into sealant.
5. Walk away for an hour to let sealant set.
6. Reinstall thermostat/housing/gasket assembly onto block. Gasket sealant not necessary at this step, but optional.
7. Let sit for a few more hours before re-filling coolant.
After I started following this process, it works the first time every time. Get a new housing if yours is cracked, bent or gouged.
Jason
#9
#10
I had the same problem. Used the recommended blue RTV gasket ****e. Leaked in 2 days.
2nd time I used Permatex GREY RTV especially made for waterpumps and thermostats. No leak.
Come in little tubes?? Had to use 2 tubes to do the thermostat and both gaskets on the water pump.
CS45
2nd time I used Permatex GREY RTV especially made for waterpumps and thermostats. No leak.
Come in little tubes?? Had to use 2 tubes to do the thermostat and both gaskets on the water pump.
CS45
#11
Put the thermostat against the housing and turn it, it should eventually catch and stay in the housing if it is the same as an OEM thermostat.
Don't use RTV sealant, use a HI-TACK sealant, and I prefer to NOT put it between the gasket and the block, but I don't think it matters. The key is to not use too much--just spread a thin layer over the whole gasket contact area--more is not better.
Jason
#12
Yes, the paper gasket is glued to the housing in step #4.
Put the thermostat against the housing and turn it, it should eventually catch and stay in the housing if it is the same as an OEM thermostat.
Don't use RTV sealant, use a HI-TACK sealant, and I prefer to NOT put it between the gasket and the block, but I don't think it matters. The key is to not use too much--just spread a thin layer over the whole gasket contact area--more is not better.
Jason
Put the thermostat against the housing and turn it, it should eventually catch and stay in the housing if it is the same as an OEM thermostat.
Don't use RTV sealant, use a HI-TACK sealant, and I prefer to NOT put it between the gasket and the block, but I don't think it matters. The key is to not use too much--just spread a thin layer over the whole gasket contact area--more is not better.
Jason
Just trying to get some last minute advice before I get off work and dive right into my 4th attempt at this jimmy lol
#14