1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks
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1lilredwagon: Thanks for all that. I will be trying gloss eventually and I think I will refrain from using a clear coat as pretty much every complaint I have found online has to do with rattlecan clear coat or wal-mart black... ...results and updates will of course ensue...
Last edited by megawatt00; 04-05-2011 at 08:19 PM.
Reason: Clean up
Lets try and keep this civil. I have cleaned up the thread. Lets please keep it this way. Constructive criticism is one thing bashing another's idea is another. Lets please keep this on track.
01 F350 DRW, Autometer Gauges, Custom CAI with Petes Cover, 6" Miter Stacks, 38R Turbo, Casserly SS Injectors, Live tuned by DP-Tuner (F6) , and a bunch of other stuff some show, and some go. PAA #14 www.roadsidehelpnetwork.org RIP Robin Gone but not forgotten....RIP Mark.. I'll never forget you!!
Well as we all know I can not speak for the experience of others but only of my own. That being said neither of the product make any mention of their stability around petroleum products but they both claimed to be "touch up" paints. Under the assumption that a "touch up" paint would be blended with an existing painted surface which was impervious to gasoline I used two of said products with disappointing results.
Thanks for sharing your experiences lilred. When I was first thinking of going the rattlecan route I couldn't find a decent source of info anywhere. Hopefully this thread can help people avoid others (my) past mistakes...
Jim, Thanks. Thread got a little off track there....
The basic problem with "rattle-can" paint is limited nozzle patterns, a varying pressure to apply paint, limited colors, no good clears...
If you prep very well and PRACTICE, PRACTICE, PRACTICE your technique it can be done to a relative good results.
as alternative to "store" rattle-can you can go to your local paint shop and they can fill an aerosol can with what ever paint and clear you like. This is MUCH cheaper then buying all the proper gear to spay through a gun.
If you ask ANY good painter they will all tell you the key to a good paint job is prep the key to a great paint job is a TON of prep....
Personally I have seen great rattle-can results and extremely poor(these are the reason most people ASSume impossible to do right)... I have also seen Pro job that look like dog-poo so as with almost any task the person doing the job is the MOST important variable...
As an ending note a "rattle-can" jobs can turn a beat up truck into a decent looking DD for about $200-$300 which is a good deal considering a pro job runs $3000-$6000 for a 20 year old vehicle that many bought for under $2000.
Thank you CW that is probably the most useful piece of information I have read on this thread. I am sure if you go to an auto paint supply store you could achieve results like mine with the longevity of the oem paints. Just remember don't start or stop the spray without the can moving and you don't need to get complete coverage the first or even the second coat, so spray lightly and keep the can moving.
Awesome idea with the OEM paints in a can. With some hard work, sanding, and buffing it sounds like a near original finish might be achievable for a fraction of the price. Thanks, I need to re-paint the hood on the F-250 too and wanted to stick with gloss so there is that...
One other thing I have heard (but have no experience with) is that the same paint color from different lots can vary enough to be noticeable. This supports the idea of going to a paint store and getting multiple cans (if you need that much) custom filled for you. That way all the cans are being filled from the same "batch" and will match perfectly.
Good call. For the regular spray cans I go to Home Depot. They have enough stock that there are always boxes full so you can open a new one and get all your paint from the same lot. Better than an Auto Parts store shelf, much cheaper too. Same paint.
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