THAT LOOKS GOOD SIR.... WHAT DID YOUR EYE TO EYE END UP BEING ON THE FRONT CROSS TO THE REAR SHACKLE MOUNT ????
Turned out nice still need to add a plate on the outside of the frame rail wrapping down around the hole for the eye of the spring. and some inside braces to go from top of frame rail to the crossmember to keep from folding in the rails. Distance from x member to shackle mount eye to eye is 53 7/16" real close to the stock 53 1/2" leaf springs still got to settle anyways so it should be good.
For the tall hangers you could use dent 2wd F250 which are 3"...worked for me.
Thanks for the suggestion I'll have to look into them more. These Chevy hangers in pics below would probably be perfect but can't find any with true 3" wide springs so my leafs won't fit in them. What's the distance from the bottom of the frame rail to center of the leaf spring hole on those dent side long hangers? Got any pics you can show me it'd help me out a lot.
Got my hydroboost setup all mounted and pedal linkage done. That master cylinder sticks out pretty far in the engine bay but still have almost 2" clearance from the fuel shutoff solenoid. Been messing with the clutch mounting some just trying to get the hole in the firewall right the first time. Hardest part is getting the right pivot point.
Hang on................................................ ............................................
.................................................. .................................................. .........................2.00 give or take a smidge.
Interesting, that picture of the hanger makes it look like it's further down then 2" from the frame. I'll have to measure mine again but I think the super duty leaf spring hangers I'm using are around 2" below the frame. Here's a bad pic of current setup. The long chevies look like they'd be perfect but they are only for a 2.5" spring
Back to work on the crew for alittle. Haven't got much time lately on it. But I have put time in on the old lady's 79 4x4 removed rear gas tank between frame rails and wet blasted the frame and all suspension parts from cab back with the bed removed. First time I used the pressure washer and abrasive sand technique. Does a decent job and less dust and residue left behind but can't reuse the abrasive and some areas seems like a dry sandblast would clean up the frame better. Anyways I got my clutch hydraulics mounted to the firewall still need to pull the engine one last time to finish cross members, clean paint reseal engine and put clutch in trans. Then I can mess with the clutch pedal to push rod throw that's always the fun part.
After tightening the brake booster and clutch hydros up the clearances got alittle tight between the 2 only about 3/8" might be able to shorten the soft hydroboost line to gain another 1/4" for peace of mind no touching.
I got some measurements off a stock dodge clutch pedal swing and pushrod travel then messed with my pedal swing measuring until I found a suitable pivot place to allow enough travel hopefully.... Then made some cuts. Just wish my clutch was in so I could see if it releases good and pedal travel ain't funky. Picked up a intake horn cheap so I messed with that today and did some yard work. I'll post pics when I get the chance.
This should help it breath alittle easier. Also cleans up the engine bay and has 2 1/8" NPT ports for a boost gauge and water meth injection when I get that far It will be powder coated probably candy purple once I get a big enough pile of parts together to run to the coaters. I Don't like the oil dipstick location so the tab will be cut off on the intake and mounted somewhere else.
Let's compare here's the stock 12v intake
And installed take notice to oil dipstick location
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