Yea I treated myself to a early Christmas for sure. Lots of saving and selling some parts to get me this far and still have some big expenses yet motor build, Airdog fuel system or a mechanical pump not sure yet as I've had my share of problems with air dogs in the past. Rims/tires driveshafts are my biggest things I need yet. I got the valair dual disc organic so it will hold the power and also have a semi smooth engagement I'll need that for the trails for sure. Got the HD hydros and 1 3/8 input also. I've busted multiple wrenches that way all 1/4 or 3/8 drive I've even bent 3/8 ratchet handles into a horse shoe shape shoulda seen the reaction I got when I returned that one lol but never a 1/2 until now first one snapped there the second one the gears let loose so I got a 3/4 drive breaker bar and had to order a 7/8" impact socket so let's see if the kingpins give up before the 3/4 drive any tips besides cases of penetrating lube and heat to get them suckers out? Ahh parts always make progress keep going I'd say most the time the hardest thing about projects is the parts they take the longest when going all out.

 

Those kingpins are under 600 ft/lbs of torque!

Here's the best method for removal I've seen (about 1/2 way down the page)

BillaVista.com-Dana 60 Front Axle Kingpin Rebuild Tech Article by BillaVista

 

Great write up going step by step rebuilding these suckers. This will help many during there joyful experience overhaul haha. I had a foot of 7/8 bar I cut off 2" to use a socket on it I'll give it a try one last time with a 3/4 drive if that don't work I'll see if I can get what's left of the rod bent and do as he did. When installing the new ones since I don't have access to a 600ft/lbs torque wrench will just cranking the hell out of them the way he did good enough? Would hate to have them work themselves loose.

 

God Im not looking forward to the tire bill ether.... What problems have you ran into with the airdog?

 

Yea the tires will be the biggest bill besides the engine overhaul but I think I'll just be resealing it for now. between tires and rims I'd say that's around 3,500 would like to get 18" bead locks made. I still need to get an air locker for the Dana 60 and gears but I need to drive it first to determine what gear ratio I need don't want to get a locker made for 4.10 and down and end up using 4.56 and have to buy a locker made for that. Also thinking maybe trussing the front axle that way it's setup for a 4 link later down the road. I got to look into a PSC hydro assist not sure what one I'll need can you provide any help? I know there's a lot you got to factor into getting the right one. Is there any welding on the axle for the hydro assist or just on the housing cover? Don't want to get it powder coated then need to weld on the housing or tubes. I'm itching to get my t case back together but parts still not here. Ugh my Airdog experiences well on my 24v the pump went out so went to get a warranty replacement and they couldn't find my info so ended up having to buy a new pump. Got it and after maybe 2 weeks of running my truck it crapped out again this time they replaced it free of charge (better of since I was just on the phone with them 2 weeks before) got the replacement and so far it's been holding up alright. That's why I'm weary of getting one for this build. If I did it'd be the same one you got as I'm looking for around 450-500 hp and that's the upper limit of the AD100 so rather have more fuel then not enough. The pumps the only thing needed to fire this beast up once I install the clutch.

 

Got my 3/4 drive 7/8" impact socket yesterday was getting late but couldn't resist the urge to see if it works. and also to just get past this part of the Dana 60 build. I'm so done with kingpins getting them out can suck... Well I first had the axle out of the truck and tried heating then using the socket and big bar they didn't budge that axle was just flopping around like a fish. So I drug it over to the truck bolted it back in and heated em up and gave er hell finally they came out so I got the axle back out of truck and it was dark and cold so called it quits.

3/4 drive Bar and 7/8" impact socket

First side

Second side

Oh yea I got 2 clutch hydraulics firewall brackets one for the crew and one for my 24v nv5600 swap all I need is a clutch for that and I can do that swap...that valair is tempting me to use it I was going to get the same clutch anyways for that to.

 

Great build thread, lured me in with 18 pages of superduty leaf spring info, seemed fishy.
I'm currently doing a cummins conversion in my 70 crew also, great to see the way others tackle their obstacles. Keep up the good work.

 

nice,,,, there such a pain in the a$$, happy to see you came out on top. as for hydro assist. been a few months for me, what i remember was if your doing high steer you want the 1.75 and stock the 1.5 if i remember right. and the the measurement changes as well i think. i think high steer you only need 6 inches where stock could be up to 8. best thing to do is use a square off the axle tube and turns wheels completely one way and mark the tie rod and turn wheels the other way and mark the tie rod there the distance between your two marks is your length of pull u will need. if its 7.5 ide say you need a 8 inch. but before you order anything the guys at psc were great when i called and had questions i would suggest calling and picking there brain before you order.

 

Yea it started as just a how to do the spring swap. Since it was a hot topic at the time. but plans changed once I got rolling. Wish I could change the topic to atleast include and build thread but I don't think they have that option on this site. Do you have any build threads for you crew online? Would like to see some pics of your build

 

Definitely glad to be done with them kingpins. When installing new ones did you use an impact gun or just a big breaker bar I want to make sure I get them close as possible to 600ft/tq so I know they won't come loose. Looks like I may have to finish my axle build so I can do the square side to side measurement of the tie rod. So there isn't no welding needed on the axle anywhere except in the diff cover for hydro assist? Don't want to weld on a nice powder coated axle. Just want to confirm this before I send it off to the coaters. I'll call PSC and see what info they can give me on how to get the right one.

 

Crazed that link in my signature is my build thread, it spans over a couple years. Maybe this time I'll finish it.

 

Been snowing lately so I'm gettin some things I can do inside done. some packages arrived and now I got my transfer case just about finished up I'll have to post pics of that after I get more time to get them uploaded. She's a work of art y'all should like it ashame it will be buried under mud someday....

Some high steer arms springless tension will work in double shear with my knuckles




And lower kingpin caps

 

nice nice nice,,,, If your doing high steer witch you are. Ive seen some mount to the top of the pumpkin instead of the diff cover, Im assuming your going to drill holes for your tie rod to be in the upper position as well right??? If your going to leave it in the stock position then yes you will only have to weld to the diff cover and the tie rod......if your moving it up then yes you may wait a bit to see where you prefer it to be mounted.... and also if your going to powder coat the tie rod u will want to get your tabs welded on that as well before you ship that out as well.... The only nice thing is that you may not need to reinstall the axle to set all that up. with all that lift you should clear everything by a mile.... i was lucky and the guy I bought the axle has just gone threw and rebuilt everything. but I have helped on rebuilds where we used an impact and could only get it to about 345 350 lbs but since I work in the crane industry it was really easy to get my hand on a torque multiplier. some of our turntable bolts torque to 1500 + lbs I think a big *** bar would get you there, I was going to mention maybe go to some local machine shops or something like that and try to rent or borrow one if your worried about it.... but I think you will be fine.... wow you must have been good this year, the brown santa likes you. there is some perdy stuff if those last few picks..... excited to see it all come together.

 

I'll be putting my tie rod in double shear meaning mounted right between the high steer arms and Reid knuckles check out this pic of the arm atop the knuckle im getting a hole drilled in the arm to line up with the knuckle steering arm and in the first pic of the arms the 2 sleeved 10" bolts these arms were designed to work in double shear with Reid knuckles. So I guess I'll only need to weld on the diff cover and tie rod right? Lucky you had access to a big enough torque wrench. I'll see if I can get one lended to me probably will end up just cranking the **** outa them same way I got them off. Santa sure does like me just missed out on some dodge ram black leather heated and power seats front and rear I'll keep looking. Still got to post up my tcase pics she's purdy.

Tie rod will go between the high steer and knuckle arms double shear.

 

Been awhile since I updated. I got my transfer case parts and put it all back together. Been excited ever since I got the case powder coated it looks and works awesome can't wait to try the twin stick out. I'll be trying Front wheel burn outs. As good as this looks I can't wait to see the axles after I'm done with them.