Fuel pump banjo fitting, blue hose questions
#1
Fuel pump banjo fitting, blue hose questions
Is it reasonably possible to change the banjo fitting seals with the lines, pump, and turbo on the engine? My thought is to remove the big bolt, slide the seal out of the back side, gently slide the fitting back off the pump, remove the forward seal, replace the seals, slide back on, and replace the bolt.
I had a big fuel leak, maybe as much as 1/2 gallon / hour, snugged up the banjo bolt as tight as I could, maybe 1/16th of a turn, and now have maybe a tablespoon an hour. I'm figuirng that's tolerable and don't want to take the truck out of service for long, but if I can replace the seals without much trouble without removing turbo and pump, I may replace them. I can't tell if the remaining leak is seals or pump. The intake pipes already are off, and I can turn the bolt with everything else on the engine. I just don't know if I can get the bolt all the way out and get enough clearance to get the seals out and in with everything in place.
And question 2... does anyone make a rebuild kit with all the little blue hoses and any other hoses / seals around the pump and filter bowl? Or do I have to get each individual one? From a Haynes manual, it looks like there are at least 4 (tank to pump, pump to bowl, bowl to pump, and bowl to return line) and maybe 6 (add front lines from each side of head to bowl) hoses. What I can see of the little blue hoses looked in pretty bad shape. Although I don't have any leaks in hoses or around the bowl yet I'm figuring that I will replace hoses and fuel pump this summer. The pump is at least 8 years / 50 K old, and maybe 14 years / 220 K old.
I had a big fuel leak, maybe as much as 1/2 gallon / hour, snugged up the banjo bolt as tight as I could, maybe 1/16th of a turn, and now have maybe a tablespoon an hour. I'm figuirng that's tolerable and don't want to take the truck out of service for long, but if I can replace the seals without much trouble without removing turbo and pump, I may replace them. I can't tell if the remaining leak is seals or pump. The intake pipes already are off, and I can turn the bolt with everything else on the engine. I just don't know if I can get the bolt all the way out and get enough clearance to get the seals out and in with everything in place.
And question 2... does anyone make a rebuild kit with all the little blue hoses and any other hoses / seals around the pump and filter bowl? Or do I have to get each individual one? From a Haynes manual, it looks like there are at least 4 (tank to pump, pump to bowl, bowl to pump, and bowl to return line) and maybe 6 (add front lines from each side of head to bowl) hoses. What I can see of the little blue hoses looked in pretty bad shape. Although I don't have any leaks in hoses or around the bowl yet I'm figuring that I will replace hoses and fuel pump this summer. The pump is at least 8 years / 50 K old, and maybe 14 years / 220 K old.
#2
#3
With that old of a pump, it would not be a bad idea to change it out with one of the new pump made by Bosch or Carter as most manufacturers have upgraded the elastomers that they make the diaphragm from with a Viton blend which will hold up to the additives that we now find in ULSD. You may already have a small leak coming from the weep hole at the bottom of the pump. You can pick up a new pump from most auto parts houses for around $100.
As far as the hoses, banjo bolt gaskets and fuel bowl rebuild kits, we can help with that.
Replacement O-rings for Ford Diesel Engines
Call if you have any questions.
As far as the hoses, banjo bolt gaskets and fuel bowl rebuild kits, we can help with that.
Replacement O-rings for Ford Diesel Engines
Call if you have any questions.
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Specializing in Viton® o-rings and leak repair kits for the 7.3L and 6.0L diesels
(970) 368-4455 aka guzzleguzzle's Mods & Maintenance website
Specializing in Viton® o-rings and leak repair kits for the 7.3L and 6.0L diesels
(970) 368-4455 aka guzzle
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