The WIF drain is a different thread than the fuel rail plugs IIRC. The plugs all use the same allen wrench (I thought 6 but probably 8mm) and I have fuel rail plugs but I'm not draining my block just to check the thread, sorry.

 

I like the op thinking though.

I haven't looked at where the plug is located yet to see what environment it's in, but a ball valve like one for draining a large air compressor or the water system in your house would be cool ... maybe a fumoto for the block coolant.

 

Now you see where I'm going with this. That's why I'm looking for the outside thread diameter(12mm,14mm,18mm?) & pitch(length from crest to crest: 1.25mm,1.5mm,1.75mm?).

It seems so obvious, I didn't think I could be the first one to think of this. But searches revealed nothing. I pitched the the idea in another existing thread but got no response. I've gotten so much helpful info here at FTE, and so much more to learn. I usually don't don't have much to contribute, but I do when I can. I thought I'd give this idea a try in a few weeks when I do a full flush and report back.

It looks like the fumotos use a flange seal as opposed to the O-ring seal I see in your picture. The orafice flange of the block drain looks to be just 'as-is from casting' as opposed to having a machined flat flange around it. But it may be flat enough to work with the right gasket material.

BTW I emailed fumoto about this. Got a quick response, too. The guy said they hadn't really thought of a coolant drain solution, because of assumed long service intervals. I let him know that I recently learned for myself what a 'big deal' coolant maintenance is for 6.0 owners, and many are opting for a 50K flush interval. And there's alot of us out here that do our own maintenance, so the market potential could be significant. He was intrigued, and is looking into it.

 

I'm accepting no responsibility for the following measurements, but if they help you move along in your process then maybe they serve some purpose.
The only metric measuring device I have is a small plastic ruler, and my bionic vision is on the fritz at the moment.

The end of the plug to the inside edge of the o-ring is 10mm. Including the o-ring and the plug is 12mm deep.

The diameter of the plug, including the threads is 16mm.

Measuring across four troughs in the threads is 6mm, so 1.5mm between crests.

 

Wow, nice diagram!
Thanks.

I'm a little confused though on the diameter. Your description says:
"The end of the plug to the inside edge of the o-ring is 10mm." & "The diameter of the plug, including the threads is 10mm...", which is about the same size. But from the looks of the picture, I would think the OD of the threads would be at least a couple of mm larger than the inside edge of the O-ring.

I was guessing at least M12x1.5
Just looking at it and imagining scale based on knowing the hex drive well is 8mm, I would've guessed the outside diameter of the threads to be around 12mm to 16mm. My logic here is that the drive well is 8mm and seems deep enough to be parallel with the threads. I would think there's at least 1 to 2mm of solid metal wall and maybe 1mm of thread height. So 8mm+2mm each side would be 12mm OD |or| 8mm+3mm each side would be 14mm OD.

I don't mean to seem unappreciative, I just can't seem to wrap my head around the dimensions being so off of what I thought it would be.
Of course this would be the first time I had reality come in and burst my preconceived notions.

 

Ok, silly mistake on my part ... blaming it on recent surgery and a diet of narcotics ....

I transfered the ruler markings onto a white piece of paper and used it to get the diameter, except I marked the paper with the imperial side of the ruler ... so I counted 10 x 16ths and thought they were mm.

I only did the diameter this way so the other numbers are good.

I did it again with the metric marks and got 16mm ... so with 10/16ths being 15.875mm, I'd say you have it pretty close.

Updated pic below, and it is not to scale ... (done with fancy computer crayons)

 

Nice redone diagram
and quick response too.

Yeah, I know the feeling. I've got a ruler at my desk that has inches incremented in 10ths on one side. I sometimes mess up and measure with that side while thinking I'm measuring 8ths.

M16x1.5 seems about right to me.

Thanks!

I will follow up with a report on the success or failure of this idea. It'll probably be a few weeks.

 

It works!

Driver's side

Passenger's side

Hoses conveniently brought together for easy draining.

 

What, NO fumoto valve on the oil pan ??!! lol

Great thread jfirstford! Thanks

 

Yeah, these coolant drain valves work so well, I may even get one for my oil drain.

 

This is the same size has the Oil drain fumoto valve. I got to get two for myself. Thanks for the Infor.

 

good job jfirstford

are these the same size as the oil drain plug??

just want to make shure of the size you used

thanks for the pics

 

I don't have the oil drain valve, but Fumoto's website list's it as part # F-111.

The valve that fits the block plug is Fumoto part # F-108N:



Note that I replaced the included gasket with an O-ring:

The way that the orifice of the block drain is machined works better with a O-ring. The Fumoto valve's flange extends beyond the part of the block orifice that is machined flat. The one I used was about 3/32" thick and about 5/8" ID. I got it from an o-ring kit I already had from Harbor Freight. I did not intend for this o-ring to be inset like the block plug o-ring, but to seal the gap between the valve flange & machined part of the block plug orifice. I'd have used a 1/8' thick o-ring if I had one with about a 5/8" ID. And of course I oiled the o-ring.

 

thanx for verifying those part #s

 

Hey Jfirstford did you have to remove the starter to install the passenger side valve.