White smoke at start-up
#1
White smoke at start-up
Hey guys,
My truck ia running great, but lately (last 3 weeks), she has been smoking a lot at start-up. Smoke is white and not sweet smelling, and I am driving a lot of miles and losing no antifreeze. The smoke clears up after 30 secs. to a minute. I plan to replace the injectors soon simply because IDK how many miles are on them, but I thought I would try the diesel kleen thing for now. So do I pull the fuel water separator, emply it and fill it with diesel kleen or is it a mix? If so what is the ratio? How long should I run it? Will I smoke out every one in a 5 mile radius? I've never done it before and want to do it right. Any help is appreciated.
Thanks,
Mac.
My truck ia running great, but lately (last 3 weeks), she has been smoking a lot at start-up. Smoke is white and not sweet smelling, and I am driving a lot of miles and losing no antifreeze. The smoke clears up after 30 secs. to a minute. I plan to replace the injectors soon simply because IDK how many miles are on them, but I thought I would try the diesel kleen thing for now. So do I pull the fuel water separator, emply it and fill it with diesel kleen or is it a mix? If so what is the ratio? How long should I run it? Will I smoke out every one in a 5 mile radius? I've never done it before and want to do it right. Any help is appreciated.
Thanks,
Mac.
#2
#3
could be you glow plug system is getting lazy... [/quote]
What do you mean lazy, I tested all plugs with an ohm-meter and replaced one bad one. She starts great just smokes. And when we say fuel filter, we are talking about the fuel water separator right? Just making sure!
Thanks for the quick response.
Mac.
What do you mean lazy, I tested all plugs with an ohm-meter and replaced one bad one. She starts great just smokes. And when we say fuel filter, we are talking about the fuel water separator right? Just making sure!
Thanks for the quick response.
Mac.
#4
The fuel filter in a diesel engine serves a couple of purposes--it filters out impurities in the fuel and allows condensed water to drain out before reaching the pistons. Over time, the fuel filter becomes dirty, allowing impurities to enter the engine or restricting fuel flow. Changing the fuel filter restores the efficiency of the fuel and water filtration process, allowing the engine to produce cleaner emissions and better fuel economy.
Air in the system after the IP can prevent fuel from getting to the cylinders... it's compressible, and so a block of air in an injection line will prevent an injector from opening properly until that air is worked out. If you have it, it'll work itself out. At worst, you may have to bleed your injectors by cracking the nuts loose one at a time while it's running.
I would check all of your injectors as well just because they are new if they are does not mean they are good. what brand do you have installed?
It sounds to me like you have some air trapped somewhere not allowing the proper fuel to be delivered to the cylinder(s).
Also one bad glow plug will cause this. So double check those.
Air in the system after the IP can prevent fuel from getting to the cylinders... it's compressible, and so a block of air in an injection line will prevent an injector from opening properly until that air is worked out. If you have it, it'll work itself out. At worst, you may have to bleed your injectors by cracking the nuts loose one at a time while it's running.
I would check all of your injectors as well just because they are new if they are does not mean they are good. what brand do you have installed?
It sounds to me like you have some air trapped somewhere not allowing the proper fuel to be delivered to the cylinder(s).
Also one bad glow plug will cause this. So double check those.
#5
Your cold idle also may not be working properly. If your timing isn't advanced on a cold engine it will run exactly as you describe, since their isn't enough heat in the cylinders.
If that's the case, it'll disappear after applying some load (driving a short distance) and won't come back at idle once its well warmed (~15 minutes of driving).
To check it, pull the connector on the driver's side of the IP when the engine is cold (dead cold, ie. sat overnight) and check for 12v. If there's no voltage, jump 12v there with alligator clips and see if it starts smoke-free. If there is voltage, see if it makes a difference if you pull it off Vs. having it on. It should be noticeable in amount of smoke and sound of the engine.
Just don't drive around with the 12v still jumped or you might burn your GPs!
If that's the case, it'll disappear after applying some load (driving a short distance) and won't come back at idle once its well warmed (~15 minutes of driving).
To check it, pull the connector on the driver's side of the IP when the engine is cold (dead cold, ie. sat overnight) and check for 12v. If there's no voltage, jump 12v there with alligator clips and see if it starts smoke-free. If there is voltage, see if it makes a difference if you pull it off Vs. having it on. It should be noticeable in amount of smoke and sound of the engine.
Just don't drive around with the 12v still jumped or you might burn your GPs!
#6
the cold advance can be tested engine running when warm jump it as above and listen for a change in engine sound...but yeah as suggested test if for power as well. i dont think that wire has anything to do with the glow plugs.
my truck does the same thing. another guy here had that problem and found that when someone changed the injectors there was dirt left on the seals. i didnt really understand it but it fixed his problem.
lots and lots of diesels smoke differently if its running well it might not be worth the time or money to chase.
my truck does the same thing. another guy here had that problem and found that when someone changed the injectors there was dirt left on the seals. i didnt really understand it but it fixed his problem.
lots and lots of diesels smoke differently if its running well it might not be worth the time or money to chase.
#7
It's not the wire itself that frys them! If your timing is correct, the cold timing advances enough to overheat the GPs while driving due to the extended time the combustion products are in the cylinder and hence in contact with the GP tip.
Just a warning out of experience, I didn't want to suggest someone do that as a test then have them leave it there and have to replace their GPs.
Just a warning out of experience, I didn't want to suggest someone do that as a test then have them leave it there and have to replace their GPs.
Trending Topics
#8
Thanks guys,
I will check the advance today. I did the diesel kleen treatment last night, and I can hear a difference at idle. I know my rpm's are up at cold start and vaccum kicks off when coolant reaches a certain temp. I will check the advance as well. That is one I didn't think of. Yeah she is running pretty well so I am not going to stress too much about it. Soon she gets new injectors and pump timing anyway.
Thanks,
Mac.
I will check the advance today. I did the diesel kleen treatment last night, and I can hear a difference at idle. I know my rpm's are up at cold start and vaccum kicks off when coolant reaches a certain temp. I will check the advance as well. That is one I didn't think of. Yeah she is running pretty well so I am not going to stress too much about it. Soon she gets new injectors and pump timing anyway.
Thanks,
Mac.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
gbeach
Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L)
18
09-20-2015 10:20 PM
Dodge-My-Cummins
Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L)
6
09-21-2010 08:30 PM
mv1967
Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L)
2
04-30-2010 10:46 PM