Progress ... hanging sheetmetal!!
#1831
Have you fit the ladder in there? I would bet they didn't worry too much about it banging side to side. The locking rod looks to be spring loaded on the bottom. I was thinking that maybe there was a hole at the top and bottom and the spring kept it in place. But I would bet it attached at the top. It would be too easy to lose the piece at a fire if it wasn't attached.
How long have you had that top picture? Seeing the rails reminded me of the discussions we had on yours being bent. I know at one time you pondered whether you should leave them bent or straighten them.
How long have you had that top picture? Seeing the rails reminded me of the discussions we had on yours being bent. I know at one time you pondered whether you should leave them bent or straighten them.
#1832
Thanks for the offer Ilya but I wouldn't want to have you drive that far plus I think its a bit pricy. I'm going to keep looking. If you ever run across a set please let me know!
#1833
Keith, I know your truck is a historical representation, but for what it's worth, let me share the following info with you. My father was a commercial roofer (worked primarily on commercial bldgs) in Buffalo NY for 40 years. In NYS at least it was illegal to paint or varnish a wood ladder in commercial use. This law my father told me was because any finish could easily hide a hairline crack, and the finish would "burn" (blister) their hands from friction in use. He was quite adept at doing the "fireman's slide" as he called it where he would slide down the ladder by holding the outside of the side rails and pressing his feet against them to control his speed. This would have been impossible to do if the ladder had any type of finish applied. The blistering issue was also the reason no finish was applied to wood tool handles. I remember a couple times when he bought a new hammer or hatchet and scraped all the finish off the handle with a piece of broken glass.
I would think the same rule would apply (?) to wood fire ladders, pike and axe handles etc., especially since the varnish of the day would soften and get sticky/melt at fairly low temperatures, and is flammable. If this was the case with fire ladders, and you left yours unfinished I might be an interesting talking point when showing the engine off?
I would think the same rule would apply (?) to wood fire ladders, pike and axe handles etc., especially since the varnish of the day would soften and get sticky/melt at fairly low temperatures, and is flammable. If this was the case with fire ladders, and you left yours unfinished I might be an interesting talking point when showing the engine off?
#1834
#1835
Keith,
I agree with the assessment of the ladder lock rod. It looks like it has a spring loaded pin that fits into a hole in the bottom of the ladder storage area.
There's probably lots of quick and easy ways to secure the ladders in place but it would sure be neat to have the original mechanisms
bobby
I agree with the assessment of the ladder lock rod. It looks like it has a spring loaded pin that fits into a hole in the bottom of the ladder storage area.
There's probably lots of quick and easy ways to secure the ladders in place but it would sure be neat to have the original mechanisms
bobby
#1836
Thanks Bobby ... sorry for the delay in responding to your comments. Its been hectic since the kids went back to school. Nothing new with the truck but today is Buick day! I am having the car towed to a friends shop this morning and we will be pulling the motor. Keeping my fingers crossed that it is only a ring problem in #6 cylinder. I take some pics today and post what happens later.
#1837
No worries Keith. Sometimes life gets in the way of playing with cars and trucks
Good luck with the Buick. I'll keep my fingers crossed that its something simple (translation -- cheap)
I'm trying to get my truck ready. I have a 400mile round trip roadtrip next weekend to an antique truck show. It will be a lot of fun
Bobby
Good luck with the Buick. I'll keep my fingers crossed that its something simple (translation -- cheap)
I'm trying to get my truck ready. I have a 400mile round trip roadtrip next weekend to an antique truck show. It will be a lot of fun
Bobby
#1838
Bobby,
We didn't have to pull the motor which obviously is a good thing !
Let me try and explain what we found. My friend bumped the motor a few times and noticed the push rod in the effected cylinder head was real tight so he removed the rocker arm assembly and did a compression check which showed good compression (Rings good) Valve was being held open because of possible bad lifter . He then filled up the cylinder with air and it held pressure good. He got an adjustable push rod for #6 cylinder and then we still had good compression. We were going to leave it with the adjustable push rod but then another friend suggested swapping the lifter from another cylinder to see if the compression would change. Using all the original push rods we did that and there was a slight decrease in compression so he is thinking a bad lifter in the #6 cylinder. The thing is we had low compression in 6 then had a valve job done and still compression so what is the cause then? It looks like all the valve were ground but were they measured to all be the same height? Another cause my be a collapsed valve seat????? I have a set of lifters coming in the mail so we may swap out the bad one or maybe just the replace the one's in the effected head. I realized they will have to be broken in to the cam. Does this explanation make sense? Are we missing something? We hooked up the exhaust system, power steering and alternator and what else we could put back together.
I found a towing company that charged a flat $50 fee anywhere in the county. Cheap but I had to wait a few hours for the pickup when the car was at my buddies shop. Here are a couple of pics. You can see by my tags she has been off the road for 3 years!!
We didn't have to pull the motor which obviously is a good thing !
Let me try and explain what we found. My friend bumped the motor a few times and noticed the push rod in the effected cylinder head was real tight so he removed the rocker arm assembly and did a compression check which showed good compression (Rings good) Valve was being held open because of possible bad lifter . He then filled up the cylinder with air and it held pressure good. He got an adjustable push rod for #6 cylinder and then we still had good compression. We were going to leave it with the adjustable push rod but then another friend suggested swapping the lifter from another cylinder to see if the compression would change. Using all the original push rods we did that and there was a slight decrease in compression so he is thinking a bad lifter in the #6 cylinder. The thing is we had low compression in 6 then had a valve job done and still compression so what is the cause then? It looks like all the valve were ground but were they measured to all be the same height? Another cause my be a collapsed valve seat????? I have a set of lifters coming in the mail so we may swap out the bad one or maybe just the replace the one's in the effected head. I realized they will have to be broken in to the cam. Does this explanation make sense? Are we missing something? We hooked up the exhaust system, power steering and alternator and what else we could put back together.
I found a towing company that charged a flat $50 fee anywhere in the county. Cheap but I had to wait a few hours for the pickup when the car was at my buddies shop. Here are a couple of pics. You can see by my tags she has been off the road for 3 years!!
#1839
#1841
Keith,
That is a gorgeous Buick!! It very well deserves to be put back on the road.
So, what you're saying is that something is causing one of the valves in #6 cyl to stay open slightly causing the loss of compression. Did you determine if it was the intake or exhaust? you mentioned installing an adjustable pushrod, did you do that for both the valves or just one of them?
I guess what I'm asking is do you know exactly which valve is causing the problem?
Did you by chance measure the pushrod from the bad valve to a known good one? Maybe a different pushrod got mixed in during the rebuild somehow.
Did you pull the lifters? I take it they are hydraulic, can you tell if one is stuck? different, etc?
My guess would be an incorrect pushrod
I still have my fingers crossed
Bobby
That is a gorgeous Buick!! It very well deserves to be put back on the road.
So, what you're saying is that something is causing one of the valves in #6 cyl to stay open slightly causing the loss of compression. Did you determine if it was the intake or exhaust? you mentioned installing an adjustable pushrod, did you do that for both the valves or just one of them?
I guess what I'm asking is do you know exactly which valve is causing the problem?
Did you by chance measure the pushrod from the bad valve to a known good one? Maybe a different pushrod got mixed in during the rebuild somehow.
Did you pull the lifters? I take it they are hydraulic, can you tell if one is stuck? different, etc?
My guess would be an incorrect pushrod
I still have my fingers crossed
Bobby
#1842
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Island Southeast Alaska
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Wow Keith ya need to be driving that Buick. Even green it is a beautiful
car my friend. I am so glad it's nothing to serious. I just got a little
Honda hatch back thing. It's a carbed "86. So not to complicated for
(wait for It)
$200.00. Smokes worse than I do but I think it is
just valve guide seals. Runs and drives super and
everything works. And I am told like 35 or 40 MPG.
It may well be cuz it's burning as much oil as gas.
Still a bucket of bulk oil will be cheaper than the 9
MPH I get with the Bronco.
Get this. I am going to paint it up like the General Lee
off Dukes Of Hazard and call it General Wee. What ya think?
car my friend. I am so glad it's nothing to serious. I just got a little
Honda hatch back thing. It's a carbed "86. So not to complicated for
(wait for It)
$200.00. Smokes worse than I do but I think it is
just valve guide seals. Runs and drives super and
everything works. And I am told like 35 or 40 MPG.
It may well be cuz it's burning as much oil as gas.
Still a bucket of bulk oil will be cheaper than the 9
MPH I get with the Bronco.
Get this. I am going to paint it up like the General Lee
off Dukes Of Hazard and call it General Wee. What ya think?
#1843
Keith,
That is a gorgeous Buick!! It very well deserves to be put back on the road.
So, what you're saying is that something is causing one of the valves in #6 cyl to stay open slightly causing the loss of compression. Did you determine if it was the intake or exhaust? you mentioned installing an adjustable pushrod, did you do that for both the valves or just one of them?
I guess what I'm asking is do you know exactly which valve is causing the problem?
Did you by chance measure the pushrod from the bad valve to a known good one? Maybe a different pushrod got mixed in during the rebuild somehow.
Did you pull the lifters? I take it they are hydraulic, can you tell if one is stuck? different, etc?
My guess would be an incorrect pushrod
I still have my fingers crossed
Bobby
That is a gorgeous Buick!! It very well deserves to be put back on the road.
So, what you're saying is that something is causing one of the valves in #6 cyl to stay open slightly causing the loss of compression. Did you determine if it was the intake or exhaust? you mentioned installing an adjustable pushrod, did you do that for both the valves or just one of them?
I guess what I'm asking is do you know exactly which valve is causing the problem?
Did you by chance measure the pushrod from the bad valve to a known good one? Maybe a different pushrod got mixed in during the rebuild somehow.
Did you pull the lifters? I take it they are hydraulic, can you tell if one is stuck? different, etc?
My guess would be an incorrect pushrod
I still have my fingers crossed
Bobby
#1844
Wow Keith ya need to be driving that Buick. Even green it is a beautiful
car my friend. I am so glad it's nothing to serious. I just got a little
Honda hatch back thing. It's a carbed "86. So not to complicated for
(wait for It)
$200.00. Smokes worse than I do but I think it is
just valve guide seals. Runs and drives super and
everything works. And I am told like 35 or 40 MPG.
It may well be cuz it's burning as much oil as gas.
Still a bucket of bulk oil will be cheaper than the 9
MPH I get with the Bronco.
Get this. I am going to paint it up like the General Lee
off Dukes Of Hazard and call it General Wee. What ya think?
car my friend. I am so glad it's nothing to serious. I just got a little
Honda hatch back thing. It's a carbed "86. So not to complicated for
(wait for It)
$200.00. Smokes worse than I do but I think it is
just valve guide seals. Runs and drives super and
everything works. And I am told like 35 or 40 MPG.
It may well be cuz it's burning as much oil as gas.
Still a bucket of bulk oil will be cheaper than the 9
MPH I get with the Bronco.
Get this. I am going to paint it up like the General Lee
off Dukes Of Hazard and call it General Wee. What ya think?