keep in mind I bought new parts for my 351w since I had no idea the milage on any of them and the truck had 225,000miles on it. However, you could short block it and reuse stuff like the oil pump, water pump, cap-rotor-plugs-wires... I just honestly like having peace of mind knowing I'm not going to have to tear into the front end to do a water pump if it fails shortly after installing the engine... Or god forbid a PITA oil pump!!!!
Take some fuel injector cleaner that you hook into the fuel line and a jump box and start the engine in the junkyard. That solves the problem of not hearing it run.
Can't do that here in Florida, by law all fluids MUST be removed from vehicle. So you can't run the engine with out oil now.... And most yards will not let you take batteries in for "testing" things.
I look for how the dip stick looks and under oil cap and if possable I pull a valve cover off. Did that saturday on a 300 engine, look good on the outside, no burnt coolant smell in the crankcase and no milky residue on the dip stick. Someone allready pulled the upper intake off so I pulled the valve cover off, That engine must of never had a oil change in its life! Top end was full of coke and old RTV. I passed on that one. The yard I go to does have a 30 day "warranty" on things which is good.
I saw an I-6 that looked like it had a recent rebuild in a 70's vintage F series truck in my local P-N-P a few weeks ago. I don't know if it was a 240 or a 300 because I didn't know what year the truck was. It only caught my eye because of the fresh paint on the block and head. The valve cover was off and it still looked clean. I wonder if it was a bad attempt at a rebuild or if it was an abandoned project. The truck overall didn't look beat up, just unfinished.
just got a junkyard 302 for 500 complete. got it home pulled valve covers, intake, and oil pan, and this motor was absolutely clean. very little wear. i kept the plugs and wires in it and its now in the truck purring like a cat.....i guess i just lucked out
Hey Patman, you picked a terrible time to look for a junkyard motor around here. Here in Beatrice, one of the local junk guys is getting out of the business, and just recently crushed nearly ALL of his stock.. including 5 very decent parts trucks that I have been salvaging for the last 4-odd years.... 3 of which had the 300 six in them, 2 of those were complete, one missing the head. I don't know about Lincoln's yards though, I haven't ever gone that way for parts. Couldn't hurt to check out Cattlans here in Beatrice, Jekka's, or Crazy Zocc's in Wilber.
make sure you get reciepts for the work and get a detailed profile of waht was done to the block and what parts are in it and what parts come with it. You might find a gold mine of a rebuild there... Or it might be a back yard mechanic trying to swindle a quick buck. Either way i thought the block looked clean. If the machining was done by someone reputable you have already saved yourself some money in buying a core and having it cleaned and machined.
Did you call the guy? What year was the block? Like I said before there might be some differences between an older 79 300 and a newer efi 300... Just something to make sure of!
IIcalled him he says its all great stuff and he says its from a 72 motor can I use that with my efi manifolds?
Yes as long as the block is a 300 I6, the EFI manifolds will work. I don't know about the emissions stuff though. I think the heads will be a little different for sure. The engine won't have emissions stuff on it at all. You might have to use some of the parts off your motor. If you are keeping the truck EFI and not going to a Carb... You'll need a computer friendly cam and a new set of lifters. If you don't go with a stock grind on the cam you'll probably need screw in rocker studs. I'm not sure if EFI intakes have screw in studs or not but I'm about 90% sure the 79 head will have press in studs. Aftermarket cams with more power and lift can push up harder and longer on the rockers which makes them pop out. The Inline6 forum and 80-86 forum both talk about this all the time when rebuilding an inline six. If you buy it from him you'll have to give us a parts list and the condition of each part... Then we can advise you on what you'll have to buy. There are a few decent aftermarket cams out there for EFI. You'll need to figure you compression ratio too. If the rebuild is using EFI pistions the compression ratio is probably closer to 9.0:1 rather than the 8.5ish:1 that came stock with a 79 block. The compression ratio also depends on which head you use, whether you P&P it, also if the head or block have been decked that will increase compression ratio too...
well the odo says 16k, which im assuming means either 116k or even 216k, but when i got the truck the tcase gear for the speedo/odo was stripped so the odo never moved and who knows how long that was going on for so long story short its definitely over 116k hahahaha
Last edited by patman247; 04-08-2011 at 08:49 AM.
Reason: kinda confusing originaly
you sure you need a rebuild... I hate to ask since you already have a motor lined up but these 4.9's run to 300K easy if they are taken care of. The 300 I am work on now is a replacement to a severly neglected 300 I6 that ran to 358K!
Check around. I've seen running EFI 300's for $250-500 in my local area.
If you're looking into a carbed 300 then I believe the difference will be the intake, mechanical fuel pump hole in the block(can be punched out of an EFI block).
Other than that, if you already have a carbed 300 set up, then you can use the carb exhaust manifold, if not you might as well use an EFI manifold since it's got better flow;
However the EFI manifold goes 3 cylinders into 1 pipe so it's two exhaust manifolds and will need two pipes into one;
Mine wasn't terrible and the exhaust bolts came off my EFI easily so you could sawzall/hacksaw the piece from an EFI truck in a junkyard and make it work fine.