starter issues
#1
starter issues
I'm lost here. I have an 83 F250 4x4 with 351W. The other day it just stoped on me. No power to anything but the battery was ok.
I replaced the Ignition modulal, ignition switch, and the soleniod. It still wasnt fixed so I got a new ignition switch wich helped, but now the starter wont stop once started until turned off. Im lost what am I missing here??? What could this be?
I replaced the Ignition modulal, ignition switch, and the soleniod. It still wasnt fixed so I got a new ignition switch wich helped, but now the starter wont stop once started until turned off. Im lost what am I missing here??? What could this be?
#2
I'm lost here. I have an 83 F250 4x4 with 351W. The other day it just stoped on me. No power to anything but the battery was ok.
I replaced the Ignition modulal, ignition switch, and the soleniod. It still wasnt fixed so I got a new ignition switch wich helped, but now the starter wont stop once started until turned off. Im lost what am I missing here??? What could this be?
I replaced the Ignition modulal, ignition switch, and the soleniod. It still wasnt fixed so I got a new ignition switch wich helped, but now the starter wont stop once started until turned off. Im lost what am I missing here??? What could this be?
I'm almost thinking you had a bad connection to the battery from loose or corroded battery cables and changed the ignition switch needlessly, resulting in your current problem. If I remember correctly, theres a rod coming from the switch, down to a slide like switch, and it can hang in the start position. If you turn on the ignition, just to on, does it turn over? Or just stay there after you turn it to start position.
EDIT: Actuator rod. From Haynes 12-6 When installing, Ignition switch and lock cylinder MUST BE in the lock position.
Install the switch by first engaging the actuator rod into the switch. Position the switch on the steering column and install the nuts finger tight.
Move the switch up and down along the column and when you locate the mid-point of rod lash, tighten the retaining nuts.
#3
#4
I thought it was a bad connection too cause its notorious for that, but it wasnt that before i did anything i cleaned the terminals and tested the battery... now the new switch wants to start the truck in the run possition not start. Im thinkin the new switch is bad, but I dont know?
#7
Ok so I did everything to the T like you said. which worked but now I have no power when in run... Theres power when the keys turned backwards, and non when off. No power in run, but starts at the start possition. Im guessin a short somewhere? Maybe?
And thanks for the welcome. This is loads of help already!
And thanks for the welcome. This is loads of help already!
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#8
Ok so I did everything to the T like you said. which worked but now I have no power when in run... Theres power when the keys turned backwards, and non when off. No power in run, but starts at the start possition. Im guessin a short somewhere? Maybe?
And thanks for the welcome. This is loads of help already!
And thanks for the welcome. This is loads of help already!
Anybody else?
#9
It sounds to me like a mis-adjusted column-mounted ignition switch...
No power when in RUN... But the engine starts when turned to START....
No power when in RUN... But the engine starts when turned to START....
- With the key in RUN, do the headlights work?
- With the key in RUN after having just started the engine, does the engine remain running?
- Do the radio & heater fan & wipers work with the key turned all the way back in the ACC position?
#13
Thanks guys. I had an 85 F250 460/4spd back in 94 and the same thing happened to me. I remembered what I fixed, just not what they were called until I checked the book. I can't believe I remembered as much as I did from that long ago lol.