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  #31  
Old 12-12-2012, 03:47 PM
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I would think that the improvement of a K&N intake and filter over stock woudl show up most at higher RPM. However less restriction at lower rpms won't hurt either.
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  #32  
Old 12-12-2012, 11:10 PM
Beechkid Beechkid is offline
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Originally Posted by builtftough4.6 View Post
so now you're taking an 'arlen spicers' word over so called salespeople trying to sell filters to the public .

man beech kid I just read one of your responses in the computer tuner forum ,and ya sound like a crabby old guy that dislikes modifications of any kind.

The vehicle is designed from the factory by engineers that know what they're doing right. Alot of after market tuners allow you to adjust the parameters so that it is possible for engine damage sure. If you do it right , there is no 5% . with a turbo diesel you're looking at 20% power / tq gains...

As far as KN , I remember when I had a 1995 mitsubishi eclipse GS-T with a KN drop-in filter, oiled. I sent it in because I was to lazy to buy oil and clean it, they sent me a new one ,pre oiled free of charge. Good 50K on that filter.

The 5.4L flows that little ? What about with after market exhaust or headers ? tuned ? supercharged???

and oil contamination?? well... dont over oil your filters kids. or get a dry one... never seen a problem with any MAF Ive ever seen with an oiled drop-in or CAI in my career.
Hundreds of thousands of miles worth..

after all those years of bein a beechcrab , try a quality cold air intake beech kid , you'll feel the make-believe horsepower and torque..promise
1. I am referring specifically to the ISO certified facility test that basically dis-proved every claim by K&N & others.

2. I presently have built my own "Ram Air System"
Click the image to open in full size.

3. Modifications on my Mark LT alone include built my own rear sway bar, end links and mounting plates.....a complete bolt on system that installs above the frame rails and below the bed......handling is very much equivalent to a Mustang GT...demonstrated personally to John Hotchkins

4. The science this K&N marketeer fails to also speak about is the scince behind the OEM intake tube....What many view as an issue (is the plastic intake tube with its noise canceling design) actually increases air pressure. It is the same hydraulic concept used by fire fighters creating water supply where psi is low. By having the air cross the path at a 90 degree angle, the pressure is increased proportionally. Fire fighters use what is called a “4-way valve” or “Blake Valve” at the hydrant where the water is cycled through the fire engine (pump) and sent back into the valve crossing the water flow at a 90 degree angle. In this case it also acts as a sound canceling device! At low speeds, this can reduce the flow a tad (which is what most “feel”), but in terms of peak hp/tq, a good high flow filter is all that is needed.
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  #33  
Old 01-01-2013, 03:05 PM
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Why would you remove the tube? Do you think the reduced restriction is better than the cooler air of the factory setup?
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  #34  
Old 01-02-2013, 02:37 PM
Beechkid Beechkid is offline
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Originally Posted by cb_13 View Post
Why would you remove the tube? Do you think the reduced restriction is better than the cooler air of the factory setup?
Good question! I 1st used plastic/paper strands to visually check for flow patterns at different speeds, then I used a (modified) manometer to measure air flow in certain locations. For myself, I was looking for increased gain at 50% + throttle at speeds above 40 mph....what i found was a slightly higher flow/pressue location just above the radiator shroud that was slightly more positive in terms of flow beginning at 40 mph than the oem tube location....it progressed stronger and at 60+ mph it really showed- which is where I wanted to see a little more. But, from 0-60 mph, the oem unit is very close or the same. I also considered connecting a tube, from the (my) intake through the rad shroud (a clear unobstructive opening to the grill area) but after I had a friend run a few numbers, unless I changed cams/increased RPM closer to 6k, not going to make a difference. But, I was going to make such a change, (or had a engine that would run 6K) I would definitely do this with the tube extended directly past the radiator with the largest opening I could get. Also air temps were the same.....but the coolest air is typically located within 6" of the ground/street surface.....good for racing but bad for street because it also sucks up a lot of moisture (in comparison)
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  #35  
Old 01-02-2013, 09:33 PM
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Was the temp only the same at highway speeds or all the time? I would think you would pick up a few degrees off the engine until you were moving at a decent speed. Not that it would matter to you as were trying to achieve gains at 40 mph and up. You kind of did the modern version of turning the breather lid upside down. Which was always a give or take for me using the cooler air vs flow concept. The old truck was a little bit louder with it upside down and I was 17 so that made all the difference in the world!
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  #36  
Old 01-03-2013, 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by cb_13 View Post
Was the temp only the same at highway speeds or all the time? I would think you would pick up a few degrees off the engine until you were moving at a decent speed. Not that it would matter to you as were trying to achieve gains at 40 mph and up. You kind of did the modern version of turning the breather lid upside down. Which was always a give or take for me using the cooler air vs flow concept. The old truck was a little bit louder with it upside down and I was 17 so that made all the difference in the world!
The temp was consistant with almost any movement even at idle....3-5 mph and within 1-2 degrees, and it was in the low 70's (atmospheric) when I did this. I attribute this to the intake opening being located above the fan shroud so its also not exposed to any potential fan buffeting the air.......and I have to chuckle....when I read your comment about the flip the lid on the air cleaner........you're right
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  #37  
Old 02-18-2013, 10:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RPelkey View Post
When you make the intake system lest restive you will see a horspower increase. The misconception comes in that if we publish a 12 hp increase the assumption is that you will see a 12hp increase when driving down the road. This is incorrect. The engine uses a 3rd the horsepower its capable of making to maintian cruising speed. So reality is that the intake system being less restrivtive is going to allow the engine to draw in more air with less effor thus increaseing your engines volumetric efficiency. This simply means you will recieve better throttle response, more towing power, and depending on the conditions a MPG increase is possible.

I know it may not mean much from my because I work for K&N, but I don't believe in baffleing people with BS to sell a product.

I have an 04 f150 with the 57-2556 intake system on it. My buddy has the same truck same year but his is 4 wheel drive. We both noticed the throttle response improvement and he notice the power increase when towing his trailer up the grape vine. His truck did not down shift as early and he was able to go up the grade 10mph faster. He also noticed a 2mpg increase with his I notice a 1 mpg with mine.

Take it for what its worth but you can put a system on with out a programmer and see an increase perfomance and possibly mileage. The reason you don't need a programmer is becaus the MAF sensor and the O2 sensor will work in conjunction with each other to make sure your the engine runs at the Targeted AF ratio set by the factory.

RPelkey, finally a K&N guy. I just installed a K&N air intake system on my 2005 F150 5.4L. Unfortunately, there was an annoying whistle from like 1500 to 2700 RPMS. I'm not talking the nice whoosh whistle sound of more air entering your engine. It was like a extremely high pitch sound that damn near blew out my ear drums. I took off the filter and tube, checked all the connections and reinstalled the system. It still whistled. I read up on it maybe being the throttle body blade. So, I had to reinstall the factory intake and sent the K&N back to you guys. I'm am just kind of puzzled as to why the engineers at K&N haven't corrected this problem? I understand that there is more air entering the intake but damn. Why don't you guys just leave the throttle body sitting on the intake flat rather than installing it on the tube (spacer?) Any feeback would be helpful. Thanks.
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Old 02-18-2013, 10:04 PM
 
 
 
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