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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van SPONSORED BY:

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Old 03-30-2011, 08:01 AM
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6.0 running rough after fuel filter change

I have a 2005 PSD all stock minus a turbo back.After a oil change from the stealership and the fuel filter change at home the truck starts,idles,and runs like crap.Low on power ect...Fuel pressure was about 52 right off the upper fuel filter housing.Held there while i gave throttle. I checked with a infared heat meter on exhaust manifold on each cylinder exit and all seen to be running at similar temps,was told i could see if a injector was bad this way. Removed and reinstalled filters,no change...any ideas?I been searching but cant seem to find any answers. Oh,the stealership said it was air in lines and should go beat the snot out of it to remove the air? Sounds like they want a truck to come in w/ a blown head gasket.Any help much appreciated.Thanks in adavance,Adam.
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Old 03-30-2011, 09:02 AM
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If it ran fine before your filter change, I would say that you just have air in the system. Take it out and run it.
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Old 03-30-2011, 09:51 AM
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if it was running fine before the fuel filter change, I would say that you are probably sucking air from the filter housing. Did you oil the o-rings when you installed the caps? You probably have a pinched o-ring most likely the primary. I would try and change the o-rings and inspect the cap real close for cracks while you have it off.

On a side note...The techs that come on here that give us a lot of help don't apperciate being called a "steallership", and quite frankly I don't care for reading stuff like that either. You will get much more help around here if you don't use that term.
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Old 03-30-2011, 10:03 AM
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I did oil the rings and ill check again,thanks for the info. The stealership reference was pointed directly to my local shop. I know there are great dealerships out there so i apoligize if i offended anyone,but the guys i have dealt w/ before are a little less than friendly. It does seem like an air intrusion but everytng looks good on the filter housings,but i will check again...at idle just a lil miss but if im driving and give her some pedal she wont downshift to go it just slowly accelerates in same gear.
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2005 F250 c.c. short bed lariet.MBRP turbo back minus the cat,line x liner,KM2's BFG's.
2000 jeep TJ on 1 tons roll'n 39.5"s iroks,3 link front,4 link rear suspension.bunch of other jazz.
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Old 03-31-2011, 07:43 AM
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Another question on this,is fuel pressure supposed to hold after you turn ignition on but not started? As soon as pump turns off pressure drops instantly,i can hear liquid running.I thought it would hold the pressure.Thanks...
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2005 F250 c.c. short bed lariet.MBRP turbo back minus the cat,line x liner,KM2's BFG's.
2000 jeep TJ on 1 tons roll'n 39.5"s iroks,3 link front,4 link rear suspension.bunch of other jazz.
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Old 03-31-2011, 09:00 AM
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My pressure drops pretty quickly when it is shut off.
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Old 03-31-2011, 09:02 AM
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Pressure drop

yeah i just installed a glow shift fuel pressure gauge on mine. I have 62 PSI with the BB mod and after bout 20 seconds mine pressure bleeds off. Its normal. I asked the local diesel master tech at ford. He has the same set up as us and had the same results. As for your possible air leak. Do you use a 1/2 ratchet on your fuel cap. I did on mine and it cracked around the ratchet point creating a leak. Couldn't see the crack until I put the ratchet in and twisted. Another possibility
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Old 03-31-2011, 09:25 AM
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There is a pinhole bleed port at the top of the fuel regulator through into the upper fuel filter housing. It bleeds a small amount of fuel off of the top of the filter housing into the fuel return line. It's purpose is to bleed air out of the filter housing, but it also causes fuel pressure to bleed off almost instantly after the pump turns off.
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Old 03-31-2011, 09:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AKPOWERSTROKE View Post
Do you use a 1/2 ratchet on your fuel cap. I did on mine and it cracked around the ratchet point creating a leak. Couldn't see the crack until I put the ratchet in and twisted. Another possibility
Don't use a 1/2" ratchet..Most auto supply stores sell the correct socket for about 7.00 (Lisle 14500 Oil Filter Socket)

Amazon.com: Lisle 14500 Oil Filter Socket: Automotive
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Old 03-31-2011, 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by going up 2! View Post
I have a 2005 PSD all stock minus a turbo back.After a oil change from the xxxxxxship and the fuel filter change at home the truck starts,idles,and runs like crap.Low on power ect...Fuel pressure was about 52 right off the upper fuel filter housing.Held there while i gave throttle. I checked with a infared heat meter on exhaust manifold on each cylinder exit and all seen to be running at similar temps,was told i could see if a injector was bad this way. Removed and reinstalled filters,no change...any ideas?I been searching but cant seem to find any answers. Oh,the stealership said it was air in lines and should go beat the snot out of it to remove the air? Sounds like they want a truck to come in w/ a blown head gasket.Any help much appreciated.Thanks in adavance,Adam.
I don't see where you mentioned doing the key on pump prime x3 after the FF change. Did you do that? If not, that's your problem and don't worry about the other possibilities.
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Old 03-31-2011, 11:32 AM
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Yea i tried the key pump the first time and again after i took out filters to examine after issue came about,no difference...i will take a close look into all options stated by you guys again.thanks
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2000 jeep TJ on 1 tons roll'n 39.5"s iroks,3 link front,4 link rear suspension.bunch of other jazz.
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Old 03-31-2011, 11:38 AM
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Yea i tried the key pump the first time and again after i took out filters to examine after issue came about,no difference...i will take a close look into all options stated by you guys again.thanks

Not sure what you mean here, but FYI you must do the pump prime before you ever start it the first time. Otherwise it is too late and you have pumped bubbles through the line. Once you have done that, the only option is for them to eventually pass through the injectors.
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Old 03-31-2011, 11:47 AM
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Not sure what you mean here, but FYI you must do the pump prime before you ever start it the first time. Otherwise it is too late and you have pumped bubbles through the line. Once you have done that, the only option is for them to eventually pass through the injectors.
i did prime it the first time but maybe not enough? It sounds like letting them pass will be my option if i cant see anytng else wrong. Super newb question but is the ok for the injectors to pass the air?
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2000 jeep TJ on 1 tons roll'n 39.5"s iroks,3 link front,4 link rear suspension.bunch of other jazz.
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Old 03-31-2011, 12:11 PM
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Super newb question but is the ok for the injectors to pass the air?
Yes, because you don't have any choice.

On the priming, I change the filters, and after everything is buttoned up, I turn the key to the ON position (engine off). Listen for the pump running and after 20-30 seconds it will turn itself off. Then turn the key OFF and wait 10 seconds. Then turn it back ON and wait for the pump to shut off again. Repeat 3 or 6 times, depending on the source. Only after that start the engine. I have never had a stumble following that routine. I also let it idle for a couple of minutes on high idle just to be safe. But I've never noticed a miss, so that might not be important. I do it so that if anything happens it will be in my driveway and not out in the street.
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Old 03-31-2011, 02:34 PM
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Well i hope air is easier to pass than a kidney stone.Ill def keep the prime trick in my head for next time...thanks all again,Adam
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2005 F250 c.c. short bed lariet.MBRP turbo back minus the cat,line x liner,KM2's BFG's.
2000 jeep TJ on 1 tons roll'n 39.5"s iroks,3 link front,4 link rear suspension.bunch of other jazz.
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Old 03-31-2011, 02:34 PM
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