Stuck motor
#1
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#4
MMO is good stuff, use it in just about everything. In reality, any form of penatrating lube will do the trick, the key is letting it work before you grab on and spin.
I had a flatty that the lifters got stuck in. I soaked the pistons for weeks with no results. One afternoon we got tired of waiting and I pulled the intake to find what could only be described as a mouse condo...and stuck lifters. Doh! It may be worth while to pull the intake and gasket and see what kind of shape the valley is in too, maybe shoot a few squirts down in there.
Also, if it is still in the truck...after a good soaking you still cant get it, put it in gear and rock the truck.
I had a flatty that the lifters got stuck in. I soaked the pistons for weeks with no results. One afternoon we got tired of waiting and I pulled the intake to find what could only be described as a mouse condo...and stuck lifters. Doh! It may be worth while to pull the intake and gasket and see what kind of shape the valley is in too, maybe shoot a few squirts down in there.
Also, if it is still in the truck...after a good soaking you still cant get it, put it in gear and rock the truck.
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#6
I'd make sure there's no water standing in the cylinders first. If there is, you'll want to pull the heads at a minimum. If valves are stuck, you can pull the cam gear off so you can rotate the crank, but if that's the case you might as well pull the engine and tear it down properly.
#7
Gibbs penitrating oil is one of, if not the best, chemicals for losening rusty parts. It is thinner than water, on a molecular level, and gets in where oils can't.
"It ran when it was parked (in 1964)." That's a good one. The flathead is a little harder for them to get around in but I guarantee some of it is welded up with mouse pee.
"It ran when it was parked (in 1964)." That's a good one. The flathead is a little harder for them to get around in but I guarantee some of it is welded up with mouse pee.
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#10
I don't know if you followed the advice above re: pulling the intake and looking at the valve/lifter chest, but I would do that. Usually you can reuse an intake gasket so it's not a big deal.
If the valves are frozen from rust they may not get mmo on the stems where they need it. Also if lifters are stuck you can only get to them thru the valve chest.
I can tell you what happens if they're stuck and you keep using more pressure to move it..... you'll break teeth off the fiber cam gear if you force it hard enough.
If the valves are frozen from rust they may not get mmo on the stems where they need it. Also if lifters are stuck you can only get to them thru the valve chest.
I can tell you what happens if they're stuck and you keep using more pressure to move it..... you'll break teeth off the fiber cam gear if you force it hard enough.
#11
#12
Yes be patient. But I agree with the guys above, something tells me that you need to inspect that engine. We're talking 40 plus years of sitting. My truck had sat for 20 years and it took me 6 days to break it free. And I dragged it up and down this farm and the highway with no success at all. (we looked like a bunch of idiots out there on the highway dragging those old snow tires with the studs in them, LOL). On the sixth day, I charged the battery really well and it slowly bumped the fan around 1/2 revolution with multiple bumps of the starter. At that point, I went and got a big 900 CCA 12 volt battery, unhooked everything but the starter cable and it broke free. BUT, looking back on it, I was lucky that I didn't damage something. 20 years was a long time for mine. Almost 50 is an eternity. I got my engine started about 2 hours after I got it freed up. When it started, a huge amount of nut pieces, grass, and the basic ingredients of a mouse nest blew out the tailpipe. Another reason I worry you will have a bigger problem than me.