If you pull the vacuum lines off the solenoid and cap or plug off the line coming from the motor then this will lock in the IWE's but not the 4x4 and at least you can drive it without the grinding. Try that and if they are still grinding then you have something wrong other than the IWE's.
Do you get the grinding all the time. Im just thinking if you replaced everything. Your grinding might not be the IWE. What all did you replace? Wheel bearings, when going out, can make a grinding noise.
Thanks for the replys I should explain myself what i did change was the drivers side iwe and 2nd check valve tested everything else all test came out 100% even though the passenger side held vacum could it still be inop., if i plug up the line going to one of the IWEs could this tell me if that IWE is gone. also could i try not to put in the IWES. would that still give me 4x2 .trk $$$ empty..p.s. great post from you guys.thanks agin
Well, if you remove the IWE's you might expose some parts behind the spindle that you might not want to completely expose to the elements. Try unplugging your vacuum line at your first check valve, put a cap on the open end of the check vavle and a plug on the open end of the vacuum line. This will remove vacuum from the system and should lock the IWEs. You will not be in 4WD the front half shafts are now just locked to the hub. It will not hurt anything. Now if you drive and you still have the grinding then your down to 2 things. You either have a IWE that is "frozen" or stuck half engaged, or your grinding is not coming from the IWE.
If you do not get the grinding anymore than you might have a vacuum leak somewhere. I dont know if you tested all the lines or what, but you could have a leak in a line somewhere, or a leak in the plastic vacuum reserve tank behind the battery. Or the first check valve might be failing.
Do you notice when it grinds, are you turning the wheel left or right, or does it not matter? And is the grind continuous, or does it come and go with engine RPM and load, and does it grind when your not moving?
slow turns lft or right hi speeds/low speeds ea iwe is holding vacum
what you said one of the iwe could be frozen an still holding vacum
changed drivers side will look at passenger side. will let you know
When i changed my IWEs they were filled with gunk, and it cold be filled to the point where it cant disengage the whole way. One way you can check the whole system is undo the vacuum line at the first check valve. Hook your vacuum guage to the check valve and apply vacuum. See it it holds. If it does, then move on, take the check valve out and hook your guage right to the line and apply vacuum, etc. This will give you a pretty good systematic check of all the components. Keep checking all parts till you find the one that is failing.
Sounds like the drivers side.hard to tell picked up another acuator for the pass. side trk repair $$$ gone. if thats not it i will take both acuators out take my chances on grim also if the grinding is still there like you said it may be the bearings..thanks
Ok took out pass. side actuator it was frozen drivers side was not holding vacum.
took out for a road test GRINDING STILL THERE it sounded like the drivers side.
so took out actuator put the old one back in without gears attached.
well it was loader
so out of beer and $$$..my ?? is what the HE$% IS IT
You got me stumped, I do remember someone else having a grinding that they chased around thinking it was a IWE problem and it ended up being something in the front differential. Or it might be a wheel bearing. At this point, thats all i got for you.
Its pointing to the wheel bearing jacked it back up done the 12 to 6:00 in an out there was play !!! with the actuator out spun the wheel and there was a hint of noise.
turned in all lose change an cans scraped up $121.00 found wheel bearing for $116.00
hubbearing.com will let you know.
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