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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

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  #31  
Old 04-04-2011, 11:11 PM
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I originally wanted the rear of the frame, at the axle, 3 1/2" higher than the front, at the spindles. Not a lot of rake, but yeah, now it has to go flat.

I am actually OK with having to go flat with the truck. I think it will look and handle just fine.
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  #32  
Old 04-07-2011, 09:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sdetweil View Post
Grizz/SVT what is you chassis rake angle?
This may not sound all that technical or planned out. But whatever the No Limit IFS and No Limit rear 4 link give me is what I am going to end up with.

I know the IFS packages is a 4-6" inch drop without dropped spindles and the 4 link is bout a 4". So I am guessing I may have an inch or two of rake maybe none.

Although since finishing the front I have a rolling a chassis on the ground. With the stock rear and IFS I have one crazy rake right now.
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  #33  
Old 04-07-2011, 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by SVT-F100 View Post
This may not sound all that technical or planned out. But whatever the No Limit IFS and No Limit rear 4 link give me is what I am going to end up with.

I know the IFS packages is a 4-6" inch drop without dropped spindles and the 4 link is bout a 4". So I am guessing I may have an inch or two of rake maybe none.

Although since finishing the front I have a rolling a chassis on the ground. With the stock rear and IFS I have one crazy rake right now.
I guess the next question will be.. how did you level the front cross member so that the lower arms are level front to back when the truck is finished?

This is where I am working now, as I can put it level right where the truck sits now, but I KNOW this is too much angle. so I KNOW I have to bring the rear down, and in doing so will mess up the level angle I just set on the MII cross member. One degree might not sound like much, but on an alignment with 0-2 degrees this is pretty big difference.

I have stopped working on the MII while I lower the rear.

Sam
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1955 F100 460/c6, 3.55ls - 436 hp, 489 tq
2012 F350 4x4, DRW, 3.73ls, CC, LB, 400 hp, 800 tq
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  #34  
Old 04-07-2011, 09:59 AM
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Sam,

Starting on pg 5 of the instructions are the steps I followed...

If you notice in the figures and in my pictures the upper control arm mounts are actually at a slight angle. I think that is part of the cross members design to assist with the offset of any rake. The lower arms may have a natural offset angle as well but am not sure. When I get home I will look a little more thoroughly.
In addition to natural angle of the control arm, the upper control arms also sit on an aluminum eccentric that have the thru bolt hole at an angle so you can adjust alignment by simply adjusting the eccentric. I am not seasoned on the way this all works but from friends that do more work than I, they state that the eccentric adjustment is good design for alignment.

http://www.nolimit.net/it01/WideRideIFS.pdf
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Last edited by SVT-F100; 04-07-2011 at 10:58 AM. Reason: typo
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  #35  
Old 04-07-2011, 10:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SVT-F100 View Post
Sam,

Starting on pg 5 of the instructions are the steps I followed...

If you notice in the figures and in my pictures the upper control arm mounts are actually at a slight angle. I think that is part of the cross members design to assist with the offset of any rake. The lower arms may have a natural offset angel as well but am not sure. When I get home I will look a little more thoroughly.
In addition to natural angle of the control arm, the upper control arms also sit on an aluminum eccentric that have the thru bolt hole at an angle so you can adjust alignment by simply adjusting the eccentric. I am not seasoned on the way this all works but from friends that do more work than I, they state that the eccentric adjustment is good design for alignment.

http://www.nolimit.net/it01/WideRideIFS.pdf
yep, there is it.. step 2,

"Make sure that the truck is level side-to-side and front-to-back. Shim as needed – then double check this. – VERY IMPORTANT –"
(emphasis mine at the beginning)

so, they are going for NO rake.. the eccentrics on the upper arms allow some adjustment of caster (front/back) and camber (in/out) lean adjustments.. but if the lower arm doesn't move up/down perpendicular to the road, then the spindle is moving all over.. thus the 'very important'..

Sam
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1955 F100 460/c6, 3.55ls - 436 hp, 489 tq
2012 F350 4x4, DRW, 3.73ls, CC, LB, 400 hp, 800 tq
2013 Keystone Alpine 3720FB 5th wheel. 40', 15,500gvwr
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  #36  
Old 04-07-2011, 10:48 AM
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Leveling the frame and marking new center line took me two days just because the guy at No Limit told me that was very important, why, I didn't really know I just followed their instructions.

Thanks for the clarification.

I turned wrenches and worked on planes in the USAF for years but this was my first time applying it to cars. I just left my faith in the instructions.
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  #37  
Old 04-07-2011, 10:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SVT-F100 View Post
Leveling the frame and marking new center line took me two days just because the guy at No Limit told me that was very important, why, I didn't really know I just followed their instructions.

Thanks for the clarification.

I turned wrenches and worked on planes in the USAF for years but this was my first time applying it to cars. I just left my faith in the instructions.

gothca!.. are you planning on the same sized tires & wheels front & back?

Sam
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1955 F100 460/c6, 3.55ls - 436 hp, 489 tq
2012 F350 4x4, DRW, 3.73ls, CC, LB, 400 hp, 800 tq
2013 Keystone Alpine 3720FB 5th wheel. 40', 15,500gvwr
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  #38  
Old 04-07-2011, 11:04 AM
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After my learnings from you this morning about the rake and stuff I am not sure what I will end up with. I think that I will leave the wheels I bought from CL alone for now (18" rim and same size tire all around) till the project is done. Then when the truck is complete I will have to revisit my Wheel Tire Setup.
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  #39  
Old 04-09-2011, 12:11 PM
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SVT have you put her back on the ground yet? I should have my rotors in a few days and i can fit the front rims.

If you did any new pics? I'm curious to see the rake of yours. mine was crazy but very well within reason for daily driving.
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  #40  
Old 04-11-2011, 06:41 PM
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Snook I got her back on the ground for a couple weeks, I did not go with the dropped spindles and but I can tell a hell of a difference already. I am on pause from the build doing some spring cleaning around the house and in the yard for the wife.

I will take some pictures but they may not be a good reference as I have the stock rear on the back still.

As far as the wheels... I think I mentioned before, it is a challenge to find a rim that will go over the pieces of the rotor that stick out. I actually had to grab my grinder and take about 3mm off of the centers to make it work.
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  #41  
Old 06-05-2011, 12:41 PM
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How's progress? Mine is slow I took my rear end to a local shot to get built and they are rounding out 6 weeks. Sad thing is they didnt touch it for 3 almost 4. Should have my rear wheels on in a week or so and then the engine comes back out.
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  #42  
Old 10-02-2013, 11:29 PM
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Any progress?
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Old 10-02-2013, 11:29 PM
 
 
 
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