Interesting.

How is the GPR indicator being turned on? by a voltage drop, or power across the terminals?


I suggested TRS because its the only main difference I could come up with between Stick and Auto that would be in effect with RPM's and goign forward.
Manual trucks have no clue the transmission is in motion.

 

It has nothing to do with motion, it's just that people see it then because the rpms are higher....

If you sit still and rev the motor you will see the needle jump.

My truck runs the GPs solid for a few seconds initially, then on, off, on, off etc....

 

Wow, i swear i'm on a different level here on this.

The discussion was the GPR turning off when you rev the motor or start to drive.
I was relating other reasons and or sensors that could cause the GP to cycle.
The TRS recognizes whats going on in the transmission.
I do not have my GPR cycle off while the engine is reved. it stays on for x time then turns off.
Difference between the original posts and me was I have a stickshift.

If you rev the motor, of course the needle will move, the alternator is spinning faster and generating more.

GP's only cylce on and off like that in the IDIs' Ian,
if your truck is doing it, there is something not right.



I'll check my volt draw in the morning on the scan gauge when I start it up.
Will be to cold out for me to get the meter and test the Stancore's resistance though.

If I had a clamp on amp meter, it could do us some more good.
but each bank is supposed to draw 20 amps.

 

I have the Stancor and my gauge would jump around if I rev or took off. I cleaned all the battery terminal's and cables and it seems to have quite. Anyway, I do like my GP on-off switch. I think if you were to burn up the GP's prematurely, all that cycling of them for short trips will do it. First start of the day I use the GP's then I shut them off. As far as dropping one into the cylinder, I don't think so, hope not anyway. Like said, I think a relay is a relay, the Stancor is just tougher.

 

I see what you are saying. I guess maybe off was the wrong word. I was meaning to say that when I rev the motor after starting it, the amp gauge stays towrd the bottom for a few seconds, then starts moving back and forth (higher voltage, lower voltage) for several more seconds, till it comes up for good. I don't know if they are completely turning off, but there are definately rapid fluctuations in current draw. It is not just my truck that does this, I have seen lots that do it.

 

its not rapid fluctuations in current draw.

you guys are forgetting the alternator puts out x amps/volts at x rpm's
so when you increase the RPM's, you increase how much the alternator puts out.

Thus relying on the gauge moving around is a bad indication of off and on, unless you know the place whre the truck runs with it on vs off.

When I start and the truck idles low, the gauge is almost to 8 volts.
When I get the truck moving, it moves half way between half and 8, and then when the GP's turn off, it moves to normal.
Doesn't matter how much I rev the motor, it will only charge so much when the GP's are on.

now, as for the system momentarily turning off, I'm not sure.

But I believe when you key the truck to start, the GP relay turns off, then turns back on again for x minutes Dependant on the temp of the oil.

The real only way to tell if its turning off is to actively measure the GPR while the motor is reved after its started.
An analog meter would do this best compared to a digital, digitals are sometimes too quick, but you can see the needle jump on an analog meter.

Good tip for you guys checking TPS's and pots and such.
use an analog meter, you can see the flat spots easier while turning the POT.

Anyone have a small child they can throw on the engine with a guage while you get in the truck and rev the motor with the GP's on?
haha.
J/k.

If I had an amp meter, I'd hook it up to watch while I was in the truck.
So cold out though!!


The only differences in the relays would be the coil resistance.

I personally believe the Stancore pulls more voltage than the stock GPR, but its late, and I could be having a pipe dream.
My brain has malfunctions when it comes to EIR
Circuits sometimes dont ... function in my brain.

Oh.
if people can get me enough info.
I can load everything up in multi sim and test it.

I can plug in the various relays and loads.blahblahblah and test the circuit.

 

Somewhere in this forum is a video I remember seeing about this same topic. And supporting data somewhere?....


Wish I could afford a DC amp meter....pretty pricey...had on at my last job...darn thing came in handy troubleshooting DC amp draw problems.

But regarding the Stancor...just a beefy contact ...where it needs to be, at the High amp draw side where the arcing takes place.

 

I'ma have to do some more testing on this.

If the truck is cold, under X temp, where I cannot define X.
Reving my truck wont do a damn thing to the GPR.

Now, when the truck is up past X temperature, The GPR stays engaged and if I, lets say, move the truck using the throttle. The GPR is turning off.

Im going to guess its around 80-120 for now.

 

The relay is just not a relay.
The oe relay is filled with a gas to keep arch under control.
Its contacts is also a disk. The disk rotates every cycle of the relay.
The pcm will PW control the relay in the event of to high or to low
of batt voltage. Low is so you will have enough power to rotate the motor
for starting. High is protection of system.

B

 

So Bill, your saying the Stancor is not the best of choice?

 

How does the disk in the relay rotate?.......

I'm no expert, but I've never been taught in any of my electronics classes that there are moving parts in a relay.

 

I only use the oe relay. Choice is yours.
The trick/secret to a long lasting starting system is to
change your batts every 4 years no matter how they test.

The batts are the reason for failures down the line.
Its worked for me for the last 14 years.

B

 

Wish I still had my OE relay, I'd be glad to rip it apart and see what's going on there. Not to question Bill (because this man knows his stuff) But I've never heard of a disk style relay either. I thought most relays were an electromagnet that closes a set of contacts with linear travel, not rotary. I've been wrong before.

Either way, thanks Bill for the info. Shot you some rep.

 

Thats good battery policy Bill. I do the same. Four years if your lucky they last that long these days. Gotta change out the 97's batteries soon. No idea how old they are. New cables too since the PO hosed them up.

 

I have never used this one but i here its a keeper.
FORD DIESEL GLOW PLUG Relay 6.9 and 7.3 Powerstroke - eBay (item 290521779425 end time Apr-11-11 13:00:00 PDT)

By oe relay i mean IH not ford.
I dont know who makes them for ih.

B