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  #16  
Old 03-26-2011, 07:13 AM
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amadas350 amadas350 is offline
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do you have the capability of reprogramming the computer for it to know you switched. i think it should give you the wrong (miles til epmpty).. otherwise your good.
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  #17  
Old 03-26-2011, 07:20 AM
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I couldn't care less about miles to empty. I need to know gallons to empty. An accurate fuel gauge is fine. I just can't figure out if the tank and pump in the EB is the same. I haven't done it yet because it would stand to reason it isn't an EB option for a reason. But what's the reason?
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  #18  
Old 03-26-2011, 10:38 AM
Bart99GT Bart99GT is offline
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Originally Posted by spdmpo View Post
I couldn't care less about miles to empty. I need to know gallons to empty. An accurate fuel gauge is fine. I just can't figure out if the tank and pump in the EB is the same. I haven't done it yet because it would stand to reason it isn't an EB option for a reason. But what's the reason?
Probably because Ford is being hard-headed about offering the option. A marketing "genius" probably thought that nobody would want a larger tank on the EB because, after all, it is supposed to be more fuel efficient than the V8s.

I wouldn't be shocked that if you went to the fleet manager at your local dealer if you could get one ordered with the larger tank.
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  #19  
Old 03-26-2011, 11:22 AM
Eric Landstrom Eric Landstrom is offline
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I couldn't care less about miles to empty. I need to know gallons to empty. An accurate fuel gauge is fine. I just can't figure out if the tank and pump in the EB is the same. I haven't done it yet because it would stand to reason it isn't an EB option for a reason. But what's the reason?
Should you (or anybody for that matter) find out, be sure to share with the rest of us.
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  #20  
Old 03-26-2011, 11:32 AM
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I am looking in to it and I'll def share.
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  #21  
Old 03-27-2011, 09:40 PM
Jus2shy Jus2shy is offline
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I highly doubt there would be an issue with fuel pressure from the tank to the engine. And thinking that the ecoboost only puts out about 360HP, it would flow about as much fuel as either a 5.0 or 6.2. So chances are they both use the same fuel tank pump. The direct injection pressure come from the fuel pump on the engine, chances are it's a cam driven unit like it was on my LNF, and like it is on Audi's or VW's (a bosch unit most likely).
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  #22  
Old 03-28-2011, 12:06 AM
Rancheroracer Rancheroracer is offline
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Good points, I'd forgotten about the hi-pressure pump on the engine.
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  #23  
Old 03-28-2011, 11:52 AM
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New Here. Something I question on the 36 gallon tank swap with an older moder is I believe ford went to the filter in the tank on the 2011 model. If you are going to put the tank and all the hardware in a 2011 you might want the filter system from a 2009-10 as well. Something to check on and it might all be the same too.
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  #24  
Old 03-28-2011, 12:46 PM
8LITERCOBRA 8LITERCOBRA is offline
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Update on tank swap:

It's a tough job working by your lonesome, but doable. You need to jack up the back a bunch for clearance. A lift would make it easier, but then you'de need 2 people to handle the tank. I ended up putting 3 concrete blocks plus a 2x4 under my rear receiver hitch, making sure to put the load directly over the concrete block's center support. That lets the rear suspension drop to full droop. That is important to get the driveshaft out of the way.

For access, you then have to take the exhaust loose. I dropped mine from the front compression flange, also taking loose the 3 brackets supporting the muffler and tail pipe. I did not take the pipe/muffler completely out, but dropped it and slid it all the way forward.

I then disconnected the two gas line connections forward of the tank. Next, take off the front tank support strap. The front of the tank will drop....I supported it with a 6" block to keep it off the floor. Supporting the rear of the tank with a floor jack, take loose the rear strap. Lower the rear of the tank enough to allow the 2 electrical plugs to be disconnected. The gray one with red tabs on top was a real bit** for me. (Rant about arcane ways to lock plugs together when they are in a position that's difficult to see and access.) Now I know that the little red slider has to slide all the way over to allow you to press another tab that allows disengagement. The smaller plug was straighforward. Drop the tank a little more, exposing the fuel filler neck rubber hose and a vapor line that has to be disconnected. Hose clamp and a little snap clamp later, the old tank is ready to drop. At this point, you are very happy that you ran the tank just about all the way empty.

Comparing the 26 gal tank to the 36 gal tank on the ground: All plugs and connections look compatible. The high point on the tank, containing the filler neck and fuel pump are the same: ergo, it looks to me that the tank level sender and pump are the same. I suspect that the gas gauge will read identically, but that the miles to empty will not be right, as has been stated in threads above. The tanks differ in that a significantly higher dimension is carried further toward the front on the big tank, giving greater capacity. Length and width appear the same.

Putting the big tank back: Place the front on the same 6" block. Raise the rear with the jack, joining the electrical connection plugs. Raise it further to where you can mate the rubber filler hose to the neck. This is made easier by taking out 3 small bolts that secure the top of the filler neck inside the fuel filler door, and an additional hose clamp located in front of the rear wheel. These steps allow some wiggle in the fuel filler neck, and allow the hose to tank neck mating. That was the most difficult part of the job to me, due to very close access. Tightening a hose clamp screw onto the tank that you can't see also wasn't fun at all. Getting the hose fully mated with the male fitting on the tank was also challenging. Connect the vapor line back. For some of you wizard wrenches, these things may not be difficult....but I struggled. Perseverance paid off, and I'm ready to attach the support straps. You better have the straps mated up on the hinge side and hanging at this point, or you'll be unhooking the fuel filler neck connection and dropping the tank again;i.e., hang the straps BEFORE you raise the new tank. I was fortunate, and did, in fact, do this.

The straps went back in place very straightforward. I was surprised at how much they compressed the tank. It ain't gonna wiggle a bit!!

Reconnect the 2 front connections, and you are done with the fuel tank.

Now for putting the exhaust back....that's where I'm out of time until Wednesday or Thursday. I'll let you know how it goes when I'm back on the case.
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  #25  
Old 03-28-2011, 02:09 PM
Eric Landstrom Eric Landstrom is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8LITERCOBRA View Post
Update on tank swap:

It's a tough job working by your lonesome, but doable. You need to jack up the back a bunch for clearance. A lift would make it easier, but then you'de need 2 people to handle the tank. I ended up putting 3 concrete blocks plus a 2x4 under my rear receiver hitch, making sure to put the load directly over the concrete block's center support. That lets the rear suspension drop to full droop. That is important to get the driveshaft out of the way.

For access, you then have to take the exhaust loose. I dropped mine from the front compression flange, also taking loose the 3 brackets supporting the muffler and tail pipe. I did not take the pipe/muffler completely out, but dropped it and slid it all the way forward.

I then disconnected the two gas line connections forward of the tank. Next, take off the front tank support strap. The front of the tank will drop....I supported it with a 6" block to keep it off the floor. Supporting the rear of the tank with a floor jack, take loose the rear strap. Lower the rear of the tank enough to allow the 2 electrical plugs to be disconnected. The gray one with red tabs on top was a real bit** for me. (Rant about arcane ways to lock plugs together when they are in a position that's difficult to see and access.) Now I know that the little red slider has to slide all the way over to allow you to press another tab that allows disengagement. The smaller plug was straighforward. Drop the tank a little more, exposing the fuel filler neck rubber hose and a vapor line that has to be disconnected. Hose clamp and a little snap clamp later, the old tank is ready to drop. At this point, you are very happy that you ran the tank just about all the way empty.

Comparing the 26 gal tank to the 36 gal tank on the ground: All plugs and connections look compatible. The high point on the tank, containing the filler neck and fuel pump are the same: ergo, it looks to me that the tank level sender and pump are the same. I suspect that the gas gauge will read identically, but that the miles to empty will not be right, as has been stated in threads above. The tanks differ in that a significantly higher dimension is carried further toward the front on the big tank, giving greater capacity. Length and width appear the same.

Putting the big tank back: Place the front on the same 6" block. Raise the rear with the jack, joining the electrical connection plugs. Raise it further to where you can mate the rubber filler hose to the neck. This is made easier by taking out 3 small bolts that secure the top of the filler neck inside the fuel filler door, and an additional hose clamp located in front of the rear wheel. These steps allow some wiggle in the fuel filler neck, and allow the hose to tank neck mating. That was the most difficult part of the job to me, due to very close access. Tightening a hose clamp screw onto the tank that you can't see also wasn't fun at all. Getting the hose fully mated with the male fitting on the tank was also challenging. Connect the vapor line back. For some of you wizard wrenches, these things may not be difficult....but I struggled. Perseverance paid off, and I'm ready to attach the support straps. You better have the straps mated up on the hinge side and hanging at this point, or you'll be unhooking the fuel filler neck connection and dropping the tank again;i.e., hang the straps BEFORE you raise the new tank. I was fortunate, and did, in fact, do this.

The straps went back in place very straightforward. I was surprised at how much they compressed the tank. It ain't gonna wiggle a bit!!

Reconnect the 2 front connections, and you are done with the fuel tank.

Now for putting the exhaust back....that's where I'm out of time until Wednesday or Thursday. I'll let you know how it goes when I'm back on the case.
Shutter bug what you do with photos if you can and let us know if the fuel pump and sending unit work. Also, I think you need to install an inline fuel filter because didn't the EB tank have an integral in-tank fuel-pump/sending-unit/fuel-filter?
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  #26  
Old 03-31-2011, 04:11 PM
8LITERCOBRA 8LITERCOBRA is offline
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Hooked exhaust back up. Cranked it up, ran with no probs. The 36 gal tank is compatible with the 26 gal tank, for any that want to do the swap - start cruising the junk yards!! Look for any 4wd 2009-10, it will likely have a 36 gal tank.
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  #27  
Old 04-01-2011, 10:49 AM
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But about the in tank filter?
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  #28  
Old 04-01-2011, 11:28 AM
8LITERCOBRA 8LITERCOBRA is offline
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Everything in the 26 gal tank is identical to what's in the 36 gal tank, to my way of thinking. If there is a filter in one, it's in the other. I did not open the fuel tanks to look at the assemblies. I did observe that, dimensionally, the placement of the top plane of the 26 gal tank is the same as the 36 gal tank. That's why the fuel pump and sender assemblies can be identical and still work. The fuel filter neck works with either tank. Remember, I have the 5.4 engine in a 2010 truck. I do not know if the Ecoboost engine requires something different in the tank of not.
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  #29  
Old 04-01-2011, 11:58 AM
Eric Landstrom Eric Landstrom is offline
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I misunderstood. I thought you had a 2011 EB. As I understand it, the EB has an in-tank filter and the 36 gallon fuel tank has an external in-line fuel filter. Personally, I disliked the in-tank filter in the EB and was skeptical of its supposed 100,000 mile change intervals.
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  #30  
Old 04-03-2011, 09:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8LITERCOBRA View Post
Everything in the 26 gal tank is identical to what's in the 36 gal tank, to my way of thinking. If there is a filter in one, it's in the other. I did not open the fuel tanks to look at the assemblies. I did observe that, dimensionally, the placement of the top plane of the 26 gal tank is the same as the 36 gal tank. That's why the fuel pump and sender assemblies can be identical and still work. The fuel filter neck works with either tank. Remember, I have the 5.4 engine in a 2010 truck. I do not know if the Ecoboost engine requires something different in the tank of not.
I don't know how You can figure the two pump/filter assemblies are identical, seeing as You didn't compare them???

Did You ad an external filter? Personally, I would have removed the pickup assembly and removed any filter. Then installed a decent in line filter.
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Old 04-03-2011, 09:38 AM
 
 
 
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