Hey everyone

2012 Ford Escape 3.0
last week my AC went out! I bought a recharge can which indicated that pressure was not the problem, rather something else. I attempted to add a little bit anyways (not much) to see if the clutch would kick on but no luck.

I checked the relays which are good. The AC relay (number 20) reads good voltage to the relay outlet.
I replaced the low pressure switch, which did not change anything. The pressure switch reads 5V. I assume 5V is the normal voltage it should receive?

When i I first start the car and turn on the AC, the clutch engages for maybe 3 seconds then turns off. If the vehicle is warm, it does not engage at all. The clutch seems to spin ok by hand, doesn’t feel locked up and there is no grinding.

Ive read other forums suggesting to jump the clutch to see if it works, but I can’t find anywhere online that explains how exactly to do that.

Does anyone have have any suggestions for me, anything else I can check before I replace the ac compressor/clutch?

Thank you!

 

Compressors are expensive. Find a repair shop that can put a set of refrigerant gauges on the system. That's the only way to tell what's really going on.

 

If the clutch kicks on at first I doubt it is that. Something is telling it no to kick on. Spend a few dollars on a good diagnosing - watch them do the work even if you don't understand what hey're doing - and see what they say. Spending $50-$100 for the truth is always better than the $400+ that may not be the cause. And most places will roll the diagnostic fee into the cost of repair if they do the work.

 

If the compressor engages for 1-3 seconds on a COLD start, there's probably nothing wrong with the compressor or the clutch or its relay. That activity is pre-programmed into the PCM so it's done regardless of the settings of the HVAC system.

These PCM-controlled A/C systems aren't what your daddy was used to. Now, in addition to a set of gauges, you also need to be able to interrogate the computer system as to what it's seeing and what it is commanding. That means a capable scan tool (or equivalent) along with the service documentation so you can figure out what needs to be checked and how to interpret the test data. If you don't have the wherewithal (or the time and resources to get there) to pull all that off, take it to a shop that has a person who does know how it works and can properly diagnose it.