hey, so my oil pump is really beginning to make me really mad, i was thinking of taking it out and cleaning it out and get some fresh oil in it. i was hoping on doing it Friday but not sure on how long or hard it is. my dad said that hes done it before on our old '88 f150 but that was a while ago. my truck is a 1990 f150 with a 5.8 and any advise will be greatly appreciated
why would you want to clean it and there is always fresh oil going through it ? to pull the pump you have to pull the pan and to do that you will have to undo the motor mounts and jack the engine up ! IF YOU PULL THE PUMP THEN THROW IT AWAY AND GET A NEW ONE !
IF THE STRAINER IS PLUGGED THEN CLEAN IT OR GET A NEW ONE , NEVER PULL A PUMP AND REUSE IT AS THERE IS A REASON FOR PULLING IT AND PUTTING IT BACK IN WONT FIX IT !
here is a high volume pump from autozone , and the spring that your referring to is for high pressure witch you dont need as the pump works just fine as is ! i would never use a used spring in a new pump , your currant pick up tube will work with this pump just clean it up good !
For your 1990 Ford Truck F150 1/2 ton P/U 4WD 5.8L FI Windsor 8cyl
Eligible for FREE 2-Day Shipping
Part Number: M-83HV
Alternate Part Number: 50123
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Features & Benefits
High volume replacement oil pump
Part Number: M-83HV
Weight: 5.7 lbs
Warranty: 1 YR
Notes: High volumeIt has 25% additional volume of oil than stock pump, stock relief valve and shaft design, may require minor modification of oil pan. Priced individually.
Material: Cast Iron
Shipping Information: Overnight and Two Day shipping are not available for PO Box, APO/FPO/DPO or US Territory addresses.
To change it you have to disconnect both motor mounts and jack the engine up until the intake hits the firewall. You will then have to unbolt the oil pan and before you can get it out you have to reach in it blindly and unbolt the pump (or pick up tube, I can't remember) and drop it in the pan and then you will be able to remove the pan. Not the hardest job to do but it will take some patience.
You'll have to release the engine mounts and push it up (pull if you have a cherry picker). In order to have clearance for the pan to come out. there will be 3 bolts you need to take out. One of them holds the end of the screen in and two of them will hold the pump in.
When I did my buddy's 351w we did the clutch and new injectors in the same weekend. Taking out the tranny for a inspection and replacing the clutch was a great idea because it allowed us a ton more room. We removed the fan and fan clutch and pulled the engine way up and out with a cherry picker. This allowed the pan to drop out without the oil pump and screen off. Just a min... I'll post a pic that should help you locate the bolts without the pan off.
In the pic below you'll see a 351w with oil pan off. The red arrows to the right show the pump bolts (2 of them) and the green arrow shows you the last nut to remove the oil screen. The green circle is there to show you where the nut will be on the other side. The nut you need to remove isn't pictured in the circle, but it will be right on the end of that main cap bolt.
the oil pump drive shafts are known to break sometimes so you might want to spend the $$$$ to replace that. Just remember to set the depth guage ring on the new pump shaft (if you get one). It's the same as the one you take out. If you don't set the depth guage ring properly and you remove your distributor later... Your distributor might pick the pump shaft up upon removal and drop it into the bottom of the oil pan. MAJOR NO NO!!!!! AKA the death plunk!
It sounds to me like you need to stop, take a step back, and figure out what's wrong with your truck before you start changing parts. To be honest, from your vague description of the symptoms, you're wasting your time and money with the oil pump. And don't use a high volume pump unless the motor is built for it. Too-high oil pressure can blow gaskets out and cause lots of problems.
So... how many miles on the truck? What is the actual oil pressure? The gauge is just an idiot light. More than 7psi and it swings about halfway up. Less than 7psi, it reads zero. There is no in between. Any other readings are electrical related and have nothing to do with oil pressure.
How long has it been doing this? Any recent work done to it? Have you pulled the codes? When was the last tune-up?
I think you need to take this one thing at a time too. I know you were asking about the real oil pressure guage in another forum. You should start with doing the Real oil pressure guage... Go back to the post I revived today and read through what you need to do then get back to us.
you should check and get your real oil pressure first. Then if you are still low on oil pressure it could be your main berings... So the next step would be actually checking the berings before spending $100 on a new oil pump, screen, and pan gasket.
You need to drop the pan in order to check your berings anyhow... So... push/pull your motor up and drop your pan off. Then take the oil pump and screen off. Then pull a couple of the main caps in order to inspect the mains. If the mains are bad you'll need to do new mains before a new oil pump will make any difference. If the mains are fine you can bolt them up, torque them down to speck, and install a new pump, screen and one piece pan gasket (the one pieces are crutiual- felpros are great!).
PS: if you don't want to mess with all the parts for a real oil pressure guage in the cab... One of these oil pressure testers is $15 and can be found about anywhere! It will also give you a more accurate reading than the guage in the cab (before or after the real pressure switch swap) b/c it actually reads by PSI numbers and not low-normal- high... Amazon.com: Engine Oil Pressure Tester: Automotive
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