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How to change your V-10 spark plugs.

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Old 03-15-2011, 02:29 PM
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How to change your V-10 spark plugs.

Start with the left front hole after all your plugs are gapped, take your 7mm socket and remove the cop hold down screw but grab it carefully and place it above the radiator so you don't drop it, pull the cop wire (easy) if you plan to replace the boot, pull out the cop and boot, use a plug socket with the rubber insert so your plug will come out of the hole and if that doesn't work you can spray the inside of the socket with adhesive (this is what I do because the insert is gone), pull the plug and replace with your new gapped Autolite 103, check your cop boot for cracks and dirt etc, if they are cracked they are worthless but otherwise you can clean them up, put a tiny bit of grease on the spring tip, put dialectric all around the top 1/2" of the boot (I use axle grease because i'm cheap and couldn't find any other than little packets), this will seal out the water and dirt, torque plug at 14 pounds if you like (I don't torque mine and they are always snug when I replace them every 2 years)....... no need to get on my case here, button that first one back up (do 1 at a time so you make sure they are tight, actually in there, and to minimize dropping anything in the hole), do the rest but when you get to the right rear 2 remove the throttle bracket and the bracket across from it (easy), twist off the hose going to the throttle body and any other hoses you can easily remove back there, remove the last 2 cop wires back there and any other wires that will come off (easy), tuck the wires away and tie all the loose hoses back with duct tape, get the proper extension with a socket taped to it with a little electricians tape, (so you don't drop the socket in the hole). Don't use a bunch of duct tape on the socket because if it comes apart you might not get the socket out.......just a little black tape. It takes me about an hour to change them after I am all set up and I use a short ladder to get up in there.
 
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Old 03-15-2011, 05:26 PM
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When you say left side, do you mean the driver's side or do you mean left as you're looking at the motor with the hood up?
 
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Old 03-15-2011, 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by jh818
When you say left side, do you mean the driver's side or do you mean left as you're looking at the motor with the hood up?
Technically everything is from the drivers view so the left side is also the drivers side (or the right side looking from the front of the hood). It's kind of like your left hand is on THE right looking FROM the front. The tough plugs to get to are on the left side looking FROM the front. (passenger side).
 
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Old 03-15-2011, 06:28 PM
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Ok I thought the same thing. The passenger side plugs near the firewall is a pain to get at.
 
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Old 03-15-2011, 06:47 PM
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Originally Posted by jh818
Ok I thought the same thing. The passenger side plugs near the firewall is a pain to get at.
Right, if you looked at a car from above you would automatically say the passenger side was the right side.
 
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Old 03-15-2011, 09:52 PM
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Hey i want to change plugs and boots. Could you please post a link of correct boots to purchase? What is the proper gap for the plugs? Thanks.
 
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Old 03-15-2011, 10:47 PM
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Originally Posted by saz2686
Hey i want to change plugs and boots. Could you please post a link of correct boots to purchase? What is the proper gap for the plugs? Thanks.
The gap is .052 to .056 and the same for the v-8. The boots are in ebay with what they fit and those boots will fit the 5.4 v-8 also. I just got 8 aftermarket ones and kept my best 2 after cleaning them up. They are dead ringers for the oem ones.
 
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Old 03-16-2011, 10:41 AM
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I got mine at Advance Auto parts in packs of two for about 8.00 a pair. They were just like the OEM.
 
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Old 03-17-2011, 12:16 AM
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Originally Posted by saz2686
Hey i want to change plugs and boots. Could you please post a link of correct boots to purchase? What is the proper gap for the plugs? Thanks.

boots, dielectric grease, 'n wobble joints on #5.

& you'll be in harmony with the universe.
 
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Old 03-17-2011, 12:26 AM
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If you use a Flex-head rachet it makes the job a little easier on the back plugs on both banks of the engine.
 
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Old 03-17-2011, 01:41 AM
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Originally Posted by UrbanXX
If you use a Flex-head rachet it makes the job a little easier on the back plugs on both banks of the engine.
If you do like I said as the OP, a regular ratchet works fine and keeps the set-up nicely lined up.......just my opinion. Even the tranny stick comes out and then there is a straight shot at it (well worth it on # 5 hole) also, Wp has too much grease on one end and not enough on the other. You need to just keep the end of the spring form corroding and the water out.
 
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Old 03-17-2011, 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by UrbanXX
I got mine at Advance Auto parts in packs of two for about 8.00 a pair. They were just like the OEM.
Do you still have a part number for those? All I can find there are $15 for 2. I found a set of 10 for $38 on eBay.
 
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Old 03-17-2011, 11:03 AM
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Here's a whole set of 10 boots on ebay for $20.00. They say they are Carquest brand.

SPARK PLUG BOOT SET FORD F250 350 450 550 EXCURSION V10 - eBay (item 170613425207 end time Apr-07-11 20:12:17 PDT)
 
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Old 03-17-2011, 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Nosedive1
Here's a whole set of 10 boots on ebay for $20.00. They say they are Carquest brand.

SPARK PLUG BOOT SET FORD F250 350 450 550 EXCURSION V10 - eBay (item 170613425207 end time Apr-07-11 20:12:17 PDT)
Shipping is $16 and that irks me just because it is nowhere near that to ship.
 
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Old 03-17-2011, 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by EXv10
Shipping is $16 and that irks me just because it is nowhere near that to ship.
True, but you're paying for "handling" or "processing".
 


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