Did the spark plugs on my truck today, and I have to say that after reading all the "blowout, torques, strip, heli-coil" threads I was a bit apprehensive, even though I could do most spark plug changes in my sleep.

It was nowhere near as bad as I thought it would be, or as some (not here) have made it sound. Just follow the directions (to the letter), go slow and everything will go fine. It was actually easier than when I did it on my 4.6L F150.

Although, #5 was a BITCH!!! I swear that Ford employs someone to sit around and think of the most difficult places to put their spark plugs.

Anyway, thanks for all the info, you guys made it easy.

 

Hey, you look like the STIG barthel. Glad it all worked out; #5 add's character. Maybe that's why there are so many characters on this forum.

 

Definitely builds character, and a colorful vocabulary!

That's "Big Stig"!

 

Makes the cold beverages taste a little better when the jobs finished.

 

These two comments are connected.....:

Funny huh?

So many simply DON'T follow instructions or ignore what they've read which might be the cause of all the horror stories with over torqued and/or wrong plugs etc etc. Honestly I too was almost scared crapless to even touch my own (plugs that is) before seeing there is a common best practice to the task. Probably the best advice is to proceed somewhat slowly the first time, observing what you're doing and maybe re-reading the numerous threads here or anywhere else. You'll have your own input and can maybe help the next guy who hesitates about doing this themselves.

See? Now you too have a war story, baptised by fire so to speak----fun to have that shared experience yeah?

 

Absolutely!!!

 

so what did you torq them too and did you use anti sieze? Thanks about to tackle this job for the first time myself..

 

Definitely used anti-seize, just enough to coat the threads. I didn't want to glop in on, I just gave it a light coat.

I torqued them to 14ft/lbs. Double and triple checked each one before I put everything back together.

I feel the best advise of the write ups here were 2 things;

1: Blow the holes out prior to removing the plugs. I was amazed at the sheer amount of crap down in those holes. I blew them out, sprayed some parts cleaner in, blew it out again (after a few minutes), them blew it out one more time when I got the plug loose but not out.

2: Thread the new plugs in by hand. When the old plugs came out, you could feel every thread and little piece of dirt. When you put the new plug in with anti-seize on it, it threads in much smoother so it's easier to cross thread.

 

I have been saying this same thing for so long! Its no big deal, just as long as you do it right.

 

..........

 

True.

 

I'd suggest anyone about to do this for the very first time read not only the numerous posts here but on Blownsparkplugs.com too---somewhat puts so much all in one place, taking some of the fear out of it.

While I disagree with their recommedation of NOT using anti-seize my torque settings will be bumped up to 21 ft/lbs instead of the 14 factory call out. The only problem there is I'll have to buy yet another Wright torque wrench since my current ones either are too high or too low in their ranges to cover the 21 ft/lbs!

 

Got it. will blow them out several times before i remove them..what toos did you have to used I.E extentions and lengths and just a rachet and socket..I did buy a magnetic sparkplug socket set so when i do get it loose it will stay with socket and not fall out on me. did you have to use any swivell extentions on any of them like #5. I hear that one can be a beep.. Thanks for any and all advice.

 

Honestly-it's not a BFD.
People are far too paranoid about doing this since a few gorillas have changed their plugs and stripped the threads causing the largest majority of the problems you read about. Personally-I refuse to use a torque wrench on a modular. With the multiple extensions, universals, etc that you need to get to the plugs-it isn't possible to accurately torque them. Always use a good quality nickel based anti-seize, and change the plugs at a realistic interval and you'll never have a problem.
JL

 

Weird, I needed no universals doing my plugs on either my v10 or my 4.6's... And really only one extension, same length for all of them. I used a torque wrench on my V10 - only because it's so hard to gauge torque by feel when you're laying on your stomach across the engine