2005 F250 owner and we love it! We bought it to haul a standard 5<SUP>th</SUP> wheel and when not towing, to enjoy in the mountains, dirt roads and Alaska. We have nothing but good things to say about the whole package of the 2005. However we now have children so need 3x rear proper seat belts. We also need to upgrade to a toy Hauler 5<SUP>th</SUP> wheel so really need a F350. Being a man I have manufactured a bunch of other reasons why we need to change – don’t tell her that though will you.
Looking at the 2011 we have some questions that we just can’t seem to get a straight answer from the Ford dealers. Of course they either just don’t know the detail or the F350’s they have on the lot don’t have what we want so they tell us what they want us to hear not what we want to know.
1. Does the 2011 F350 diesel, Crew Cab Lariat have exhaust breaks in tow haul mode
2. Where can I learn about the rear axle options – what are the features and benefits of limited slip Vs electronic locking
3. Is dimming rear mirror standard?
4. Is hill start worth the money and what does it really do
5. Is the hill descent if the F4X worth it
6. Why would I need anything other than the standard alternator option
7. I know I need a bigger alternator for rapid heat – is rapid heat worth it?
8. The dealers seem to want c$500 for chrome cab steps. What is the standard cab step option? i.e. if I don’t order chrome cab steps what will I get?
9. If I go for the short box (6 3/4’) if appears to come with a 26 gallon fuel tank. Can I order it with a bigger tank or is it 26 gallons because that’s the biggest they can fit in with a short box.

 

I can't answer them all, but I'll answer a few:

1) Yes...all 6.7 250/350 have the exhaust brake
2) 2011 Ford Super Duty Truck | A Hard-Working Pickup Built Ford Tough | Ford.com Go in and click "build and Price" to get the axle options. I believe the options are 3.31 or 3.55 rear gears with or without electronic locking rear differential. Depending on the wheels or other options you want, you may be forced into one or the other.
3) No...depending on what trim level and package it would come as part of another group.
4) No idea
5) No idea
6) You don't unless you're adding something like supplemental heat or some other aftermarket stuff that would use battery power.
7) For the $200 (invoice cost) I think you want it...especially living in Alaska!
8) Depending on the package or trim you could end up with no steps. Ford wants $495 US for the chrome tubular steps which I think look the best. They also have a flat (angular) step available depending on trim/options.
9) 26 gallon is the biggest for now from Ford. There are several aftermarket tanks available. I'm sure someone will chime in with the brands, costs and capacity.

 

Fantastic - thank you so much

 

Bigg...did a nice job on your list. I can maybe add a little more information. My comments follow your questions in red print


...26 gallons is the largest size fuel tank Ford will install...it is not the biggest tank that will fit. I hated the small tank so much that I spent the money to buy a Titan 50 gallon OEM replacement tank. I installed it with the help of my nephew in less than 2 hours. Extremely happy with the choice

Hope this helps

Regards

 

Fantastic! Thank you so much Ricatic.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
1. What do you mean fine tune the exhaust brake does it self-adjust or is it a manual fine tune?<o></o>
2. Okay.... I want a SRW so understand from your reply that I can have 2 different axle options. I also want a locking rear axle having not understood it was available when I bought the 2005.... However I don't understand the gearing implications between the 3.31 and 3.55 - Which would I chose and why. Assume I'd get the wheels that went with the best axle for my use / choice. Does one axle impact towing weights more than the other?<o></o>
3. Sorry to appear dumb. If I order a Lariat will I get chrome steps? There are two Lariat packages as I understand it; The “Lariat Interior” and “Lariat Ultimate”. It looks like the tubular steps are standard on the DRW but an option on the SRW – is that correct?<o></o>
4. Rough costs of the Titan 50 gallon Tank? Did you have to do anything to the computer / fuel gauges etc?<o></o>
Thanks again very helpful!<o></o>

 

I loved my 2005 F250 6.0, except for more than a few engine/turbo/EGR issues, and the lack of load capacity (I was used to driving F350s and have gone back to one).

Adding a little more to the other things:

Quote:

Originally Posted by mnbrown

Other things:

The backup camera is great. It's even better when it's part of the dash screen/radio/GPS package, although maybe that won't be worth the significant cost if GPS or other satelite options have limited use in AK.

The electric folding and telescoping mirrors and memory postitions are great.

The 6.7 will run circles around your '05.


Joe

 

Hope that helps until Rick comes back.

Joe

 

The engine brake(EB) is integrated with the tow/haul mode. There is no separate dash switch for the EB. It is activated when you tap the brake pedal as you start down the hill. Subsequent taps of the brake pedal result in more EB and slower speeds. The system has been controversial to say the least.

My "fine tuning" comment really refers to hooking up your trailer and using the EB on the hills you travel and see what speeds the EB holds back your load the best. I pull 13000 pounds of fiver with mine. It will hold 50 mph all the way down a 3.5 mile 9% grade. It will not hold 60 mph though. Try your EB with your trailer at different speeds to see where it works best for you.

Your axle gear ratio choices are tied to your wheel size. Your option packages will dictate this to a certain degree. For instance, no 3.31 available with 20 inch wheels/ No 20 inch wheel s with the camper package option so you can get either 3.55 or 3.31 gearing. In the end, it really does not matter what ratio you end up with. The load and tow ratings for the 2011 6.7 trucks are the exact same numbers, regardless of gear ratios. The end result for mileage is how you drive the truck has so much more to do with MPG's than the gear ratios ever will. Order your truck with the options you want and go with the gearing it comes with. Neither you or the truck will know or care about the difference when driving or towing.

I am not as up to speed on the tubular vs rectangular running boards and what comes with which package. Someone else will have to help here.

Titan fuel tank is about $1100 delivered now. I was involved with the pre production purchase program so I saved a couple of hundred dollars. If I was doing it now, knowing how much I like my Titan tank, I would still buy it for $1100. YMMV

Regards

 

Thanks to all of you that have given input.
On the various sites that I have found where you can build your own truck not all of the options are shown etc. There are bits missing and wondered if anyone has a definitive build your own website?
I am sold on the rapid heat, F4X package and all of the comments have helped tremendously. However I am still struggling to understand the axle issues.
I am still having trouble understanding the axle options. I am sold on the electronic locking axle and I want a SRW so the options appear to be 3.55 or 3.31. As I don’t understand the values or benefits of the two the only difference I can see is about $1,300 in price. Assume I have no preference on wheel size….. what are the technical difference between the two ratios? Is one better for towing and one better for MPG? I want to pull a 5<SUP>th</SUP> wheel 40’ toy hauler which the brochure says is 3,260lbs hitch weight, 14,186lbs dry with load capacity of 4,814lbs. Obviously we will pull the Toy Hauler from A-B and then stop for a week and use the truck for general driving around and fun. We will travel all states including Colorado and mountainous terrain at times, hence my interest in the exhaust break. I have every faith in the replies I have above on axles and I am sure I will not notice the difference between a 3.31 and a 3.55 but as there are options there must be a significant technical difference and I would like to understand it a bit better before making the choice.
Also I have been looking at some window stickers and notice there are several GVWR packages. I have seen 10,000 and 11,500 but there may be more. Can anyone shed light on what the full range is and which would be best for me based on what I have said? I may also at some stage have to put a quad bike on a rack over the cab as the children get older and the toys get more and more so I would rather spec up for future without being ridiculous.

 

based on reports over the last year, there doesn't seem to be any practical difference between the 3.31 and 3.55 when towing. the 3.31 seems to get a little more mileage when NOT towing. about 1 mpg more.

these trucks weigh about 8,000 lbs empty. so, get the highest GVWR you can.. you're gonna have 5 people, bikes and a whole lot a trailer sitting on the pin.
this page lists the variations.. but you will want an F350 SRW 4x4
2011 Ford Super Duty | View Payload Specifications | Ford.com

Sam

 

Yep, the official Ford site is the "definitive" build and price site. Found HERE.

It's a gearing difference, and it affects your overall gear ratio in every gear. 3.31 means that the driveshaft turns 3.31 times for every time the rear wheels turn. 3.31 is considered a shorter ratio and doesn't provide as much of a gearing advantage as the 3.55s. But due to that, the 3.55s have the engine turning more RPMs at a given speed and deliver slightly worse fuel economy.

My recommendation is next:

This trailer has a GVWR of 19,000 lbs! This is significantly over the SRW's max towing capacity of 15,800 lbs. The pin weight alone would put you either very close to, or over your max GAWR depending on what package you get. You do NOT want a SRW truck if you're planning on towing a trailer that large.

I highly recommend at a minimum an F350 DRW truck for that trailer. These trucks come with 3.73 rear gears and will see between 1-2 MPGs below the SRW trucks empty on the highway.

The only way you're gonna pull that off with an SRW is to buy a smaller trailer.

 

f450 territory, especially travelling long from AK down south all the time, you will not be loaded light. You might as well convince wife you want the safest heavy tow package, obviously if she likes that 40 foot toyhauler you got her on the hook for a 450. Just saying, i would not tow 19000 lbtrailer those distances without the right truck. You could probably do it with a 350 dually but you would have to load light all the time. What make toyhauler and floor plan, what toys?

 

By choosing some options it is eliminating others. This might help
ProFleetSales.com - Ford Official Order Guides

 

I missed the really big toy hauler...you are definitely in Dually territory...that will solve your axle ratio problem...Dually's come with 3.73's

 

X3 on the Dually with a 40' Toy Hauler, I know it's a bitter pill to swallow but your asking a lot of the back tires on a SRW. Any of the 36's all day long but the big dogs just require to much thought about loading and then sort of take the fun out of it as it's always in the back of your head how there is so / no margin. Thats just my opinion.

BTW Rapid heat worth every penny, the rectangular 6" wide steps are part of the 995.00 Chrome package only.

If you have driven a Dodge with the E Brake do not expect the Ford version to behave the same. They have different hardware and software configurations and the end results are different, there is plenty of discussion around the web.
I have not driven the GM so I won't comment to compare the two.

What Toy Hauler are you thinking of?

We used to live South of Diamond by Campbell Lake in Anchorage.