Hub assembly and axle seal replaceing....
#1
Hub assembly and axle seal replaceing....
hu guys tmrw im goin for the hub assebly and axle seal replacment.
im getting timken parts. What else do i need.... also so i no if im buying the correct parts.. My truck as a fluid drip on the passanger side knuckle. that should just be a seal correct? my truck is a 02 f250 5.4 i think i need the seal and a dust cap... also is the part called a axle seal.? and for the hub assebly what do i need for it.. im getting mine from auto zone. what extra parts do i need bolts o rings. washers snap rings..? i just want to get everything and get it done..
Thanks for the help The koolaidman
im getting timken parts. What else do i need.... also so i no if im buying the correct parts.. My truck as a fluid drip on the passanger side knuckle. that should just be a seal correct? my truck is a 02 f250 5.4 i think i need the seal and a dust cap... also is the part called a axle seal.? and for the hub assebly what do i need for it.. im getting mine from auto zone. what extra parts do i need bolts o rings. washers snap rings..? i just want to get everything and get it done..
Thanks for the help The koolaidman
#2
If you have a fluid drip coming out of the axle tube (knuckle) then you have an inner axle seal going bad. Thats the issue I have. Unfortunately to replace the inner seals you have to pull the diff. carrier. Yea and considering that only a few months ago I had the whole front end apart to replace the ball joints Im kinda pissed. But you need the following-
Inner axle seals I believe are about $60 each. And you will have to do both sides. Of course you would have to pull both axle shafts to be able to remove the carrier, so you need to pull both hubs. (Yea thats the *%^#%^ part.)
2-Knuckle seals- Ford recommends not reusing the old seals. But they cost about $65 each.
2-Axle Dust seals- From Ford they are $25 each.
2-Hub seal- From Ford I think they are about $6 each. It's just a yellow rubber o-ring
There is a rubber o-ring for the locking hub. I always cleaned and lubed it for reuse. So i cant say what it will cost. Not much though.
There is a snap ring too, but it is reusable along with the washers.
The knuckle seals are almost "press-fitted" onto the axle shaft. But you use a hammer and special tool to force them on.
Inner axle seals I believe are about $60 each. And you will have to do both sides. Of course you would have to pull both axle shafts to be able to remove the carrier, so you need to pull both hubs. (Yea thats the *%^#%^ part.)
2-Knuckle seals- Ford recommends not reusing the old seals. But they cost about $65 each.
2-Axle Dust seals- From Ford they are $25 each.
2-Hub seal- From Ford I think they are about $6 each. It's just a yellow rubber o-ring
There is a rubber o-ring for the locking hub. I always cleaned and lubed it for reuse. So i cant say what it will cost. Not much though.
There is a snap ring too, but it is reusable along with the washers.
The knuckle seals are almost "press-fitted" onto the axle shaft. But you use a hammer and special tool to force them on.
#3
ahhhh dammit. i just did a front end fluid change too. im wondering this tho.. if it is a inner seal wouldn't the outer seal stop it? and when i pull both axles out will the carrier(the gears im assuming) just come out?
how do u get the seals out? on the ends of the shafts just tap them out with a hammer and something against them.?
how do u get the seals out? on the ends of the shafts just tap them out with a hammer and something against them.?
#4
also what would that special tool be ? i want this to be a job that i have everything , dont want to get the whole thing apart and be screwed and have to run back out. im going to be doing this repair at my works shop. its closer to the auto parts store. but it will suck if i dont have everything
#5
yea it's a B$%^* aint it? lol The outer axle seals are only "dust shields" They just "attempt" to keep dirt/mud/slush out of the axle tube. Ask anyone around here and they will tell you they really dont do much. And they def. are not worth pully the axles just to replace them. You wait until something else goes bad and forces you to pull the axles lol. So no, they wont keep the fluid in.
When you pull the axle shafts out of the tube, they pull out from the spider gears in the differential. But the carrier assembly they are held in is bolted into the axle housing. So you have to pop the diff cover, drain the fluid, unbold the bearing caps and pull/pry out the carrier. It's a b&%^$. No other way to put it. Then you have to push out the inner seals from the axle housing. You have to be careful not to damage the bearing races machined into the housing though. They have a special too to remove and push the new seals back in.
Now the Knuckle seals are the ones you have to hammer on and off. Search the forum for that ball joint replacement post. It describes it. It's a big seal, about as big around as a softball. And the old one you can just hit with a hammer to get off. But you have to use a special tool or make one so you don't destroy your new $65 seal trying to get it on striaght(been there, got the t-shirt) I bought a 4" iron pipe flange and a 1 1/4" pipe section to make a tool. I dont have pics, but you can search and find it.
When you pull the axle shafts out of the tube, they pull out from the spider gears in the differential. But the carrier assembly they are held in is bolted into the axle housing. So you have to pop the diff cover, drain the fluid, unbold the bearing caps and pull/pry out the carrier. It's a b&%^$. No other way to put it. Then you have to push out the inner seals from the axle housing. You have to be careful not to damage the bearing races machined into the housing though. They have a special too to remove and push the new seals back in.
Now the Knuckle seals are the ones you have to hammer on and off. Search the forum for that ball joint replacement post. It describes it. It's a big seal, about as big around as a softball. And the old one you can just hit with a hammer to get off. But you have to use a special tool or make one so you don't destroy your new $65 seal trying to get it on striaght(been there, got the t-shirt) I bought a 4" iron pipe flange and a 1 1/4" pipe section to make a tool. I dont have pics, but you can search and find it.
#6
OOOO ok.. i actually have that post printed off and in a 3 ring binder.. my dad did his a year ago and he also made the seal tool. same thing as u. So basicly pull pull everything then tap out the old seals with out damadging the tube.. then use the tool to put the new seals in.. when im putting the new seals in do i put them in from the inside of the diff where the carrier came out or put them in where the dust shield was and tap them in that way..
ive been researching this a little bit. and i am finally getting somewhere..
thanks.... keep the info coming
ive been researching this a little bit. and i am finally getting somewhere..
thanks.... keep the info coming
#7
here's a link to that homemade tool for the knuckle seal-
Ford Super Duty Knuckle Seal Tool - AKA OTC 6695 | Superdutypsd.com
As for the tool to remove and install the inner axle seals, I have heard people use a long pipe going from the outter end in to punch out the old seal. and use a spacer to place against the new seal and tap it into place. But I havent done it personnally
Ford Super Duty Knuckle Seal Tool - AKA OTC 6695 | Superdutypsd.com
As for the tool to remove and install the inner axle seals, I have heard people use a long pipe going from the outter end in to punch out the old seal. and use a spacer to place against the new seal and tap it into place. But I havent done it personnally
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#8
#11
hopefully someone who has done it first hand can chime in here. There may be some tricks and tips they can offer to make it easier. But yup, you knock them out and then tap/press them back in place. I'm not sure how hard it is to get them started straight though. When you reassemble everything, you will want to use some gear paint and make sure the diff. backlash and pattern is still good after the work. From others I have heard that everything was still good after reinstalling the carrier. But it's good to check. And they have said it takes abit of force to push the axle shaft through the new seal when you insert the axle shaft back into the diff.
#15
Checking Vent Line
Vent line is a rubber hose that goes from the differential and attaches to the frame with a clip. Purpose is to avoid build-up of pressure within differential (i.e., which would force oil past inner seals and out dust shield.) The end attached to the frame is open and sometimes gets clogged with mud. Simply run a wire thru the vent line to clear it (first disconnect at differential end.)