351W - How best to get the distributor to move for timing?
#1
#2
just loosen the retaining clip enough to be able to turn the distributor by hand, then while the engine is running, turn the distributor until the timing mark lines up with the pointer. a sharpie marker makes a handy reference point on the distributor cap so that when you go to turn the vehicle off to tighten the retaining clip, you can make sure the dist. didn't move from where it was when timed.
#3
They often get stuck. Get some penetrating oil and spray around the base for a few days and then try some pliers to get it to loosen up.
1st thing to do though, is run the engine and get your timing light out, and see where you are at now so you have a starting point for reference before you move it.
1st thing to do though, is run the engine and get your timing light out, and see where you are at now so you have a starting point for reference before you move it.
#5
Is it fluctuating 5 degrees? Anything ATDC is obviously wrong, but you said you put a light on it, and you are getting a 5 degree spread?
Clean your marks up really good. I use bright neon red fingernail polish for "0" TDC, then pearl white shimmer for each 10 degrees BTDC thereafter. (those colours are arbitrary, it depends on that "phase" my teenage daughter is in)
If you are still getting a degree "spread" after you correct the timing, then you either have a worn dist, or worse still, a worn timing chain set.
Let us know what you come up with.
#7
351 timing
No, not varying, just I wan't completely sure how much past TDC it was since I didn't paint those numbers...I painted the 0 and the -10 since that's where it'll need to be eventually.
It's not varying, I just couldn't really read the ATDC number. Don't really care what it is, just wondering how it go that way...It seems to miss some and sometimes don't start good, so, hopefully those problems will go away. I'm hoping I don't need to rebuild my carb...we'll see.
It's not varying, I just couldn't really read the ATDC number. Don't really care what it is, just wondering how it go that way...It seems to miss some and sometimes don't start good, so, hopefully those problems will go away. I'm hoping I don't need to rebuild my carb...we'll see.
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#8
That's better...
No, not varying, just I wan't completely sure how much past TDC it was since I didn't paint those numbers...I painted the 0 and the -10 since that's where it'll need to be eventually.
It's not varying, I just couldn't really read the ATDC number. Don't really care what it is, just wondering how it go that way...It seems to miss some and sometimes don't start good, so, hopefully those problems will go away. I'm hoping I don't need to rebuild my carb...we'll see.
It's not varying, I just couldn't really read the ATDC number. Don't really care what it is, just wondering how it go that way...It seems to miss some and sometimes don't start good, so, hopefully those problems will go away. I'm hoping I don't need to rebuild my carb...we'll see.
Base timing is just one aspect of a properly functioning ignition system, although it IS the starting point for everything else.
#10
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Ok, got it to move, and it won't run great anywhere, before or after TDC...while running I noticed gas dripping from the carb and now, I see gas dribbling inside the rear 2 barrels. Wasn't doing that before. So, now it appears its time for a carb rebuild, then retime...
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troyvfr
1983 - 2012 Ranger & B-Series
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06-02-2012 11:43 AM
1980, 1983, 351, 351w, 83, adjustment, aftermarket, cap, disributor, distributor, econoline, ford, timed, timeing, timing, van