Can I take the smog pump off my 79 300 6cyl?
#1
#3
The emissions equipment on the late 70s/early 80s 300s was very minimal, and once you understand it, its easy to see that it almost has NO power draw from the engine.
Now, if it's seized up, that's a different story.
The smog pump supplies fresh air into the exhaust to help the catalytic converter to its job better. Removing it won't have any negative (or positive) affect on the engine itself.
Now, if it's seized up, that's a different story.
The smog pump supplies fresh air into the exhaust to help the catalytic converter to its job better. Removing it won't have any negative (or positive) affect on the engine itself.
#4
#5
Why don't you recommend removing the EGR valve? I just bought my 79 with the 300 and it was jerry rigged like you wouldn't believe. The air pump was already removed, but everything was just OMG backwoods engineered. So using a vacuum diagram I started redoing as much as I could, and when I tried to run the truck, which drove me home 200 miles with the backwoods engineering onboard, it sputtered and died. So I started looking at the vacuum lines I installed, and the first one I pulled was EGR. As soon as I did that the sputter went away and the truck idles fine. I'm a noob to American iron and especially to carb'd motors so I'm genuinely interested on why I should fork out the almost $90 for a new EGR valve instead of just plugging the vacuum port on the tree and running without it.
#6
Nevermind, I kept on searching and found another thread where you explained it all. Looks like I'm forking out some more money. Your explanation explains the condition of the spark plugs I pulled out. Only dilemma I have now is this: O'Reilly has three different valves listed, Advance has two, yet AutoZone only has one listed. Are there vast differences or are they pretty much interchangeable??
#7
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