So i bought the wife a 2000 f150 a while back. Heater core leaked from previous owner and needed replaced. I did that. Putting it back together i decided to take out this god aweful mess of wires from an aftermarket gps/security system. They had scotch locked into all the main wires coming from the ignition switch on the steering column. Had power coming in from one of the coil packs thats the plug wires runs too. I assumed, which i should never do, that it simply tied into the igition wiring so once i cut it all out and its back to factory then it should work again right? Tried unplugging the battery for 24 hours, tried the unlock button "trick" replaced the pcm relay, nothing. Itll turn over just fine. But something has shut down the fuel supply. Theft light flashes too. Fast at first but then slows to a stop. Also, unlocking the truck w the key fob does nothing. I HATE aftermarket bs like this for this reason. Any help would be great. Had to have a child miss school today because of this crap. Thank you in advance.

 

Check your fuse under the dash bottom right side 30 amp (Note: has to be a 30 amp (Not anything else size fuse as a smaller one will blow) and the 5amp ones and see if they are blown. If the 30 amp is blown replace it as it is what gives power to the PCM and the other stuff to let the system turn on.

 

Make sure the key fob has a good battery in it. If all else fails, you may have to get it reset at the dealership.....

 

Leave the key fob alone for now. It's not going to cause the biggest of your issues, the "crank no start" issue.

*Might* be a fuse issue, one has to follow the data and do a logical troubleshooting process instead of blindly poking around.

Odds are, you did not completely restore the wiring to its OEM configuration when the aftermarket stuff was removed.

Your biggest issue is that PATS has shut down the issue. Start by making observations to see if the PCM and cluster both power power up. To do so, verify that both the odometer displays correctly and that the check engine light is ON when the ignition switch is first turned from OFF to RUN.

Make certain that the PATS transceiver is correctly located and connected with unmolested wiring.
Make certain that you are using a PATS key that has been properly programmed into the system.

The system you removed had a remote start feature that would have included a PATS bypass (which you removed). You now need restore that function.

 

was there a black box in all that wiring?
open it up and see if there is a key in it.

 

I solve such things with a PATS delete. Member Pontisteve did the deed and shipped it back quickly. He was a pleasure to do business with.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-delete-2.html

No one else knows your vehicle has no ATS and if you live in a bad place you can pop the inertia switch, add a concealed kill switch distant from the usual places or pull a fuse. (We had a pre-ATS wrecker where I used to work and vermin cracked the column several times over the years. Because we pulled fuses we never lost an expensive wrecker.)

 

Yes there was and I got rid of it. Sorry about the delayed response. I also own and operate a remodeling and construction business with my wife. so sometimes I get pulled in every direction but here. I'm also voice texting so if something looks retarded that's because my phone decided to make me look that way. Basically what happened was I stripped out an entire floor board of wire wrapped wires. Spliced in relays. In line fuses. On and on and on. I ended up unplugging the battery for 24 to 48 hours and that seemed to fix it. If I remember correctly, when you unplug the battery for a certain amount of time it only erases so much information. But then when you leave it off for a long amount of time, it's basically like a hard reset? I dunno. One of those things i guess. I learned by shadowing a Ford master technician for 25 years in-and-out of the shop. He never did anything for me he would just explain it to me if I had questions. I learned everything trial by fire. This actually ended up being a decent security system with a remote start on it. It's a generic version of the Viper series called Python. I believe this one was a python 5500 or something. Either way it's off and everything's working as it should.. Only thing I'm having to Dick with now is the headlight switch I switch. I ordered one off eBay but I didn't realize that there were 3 or 4 different versions of plugs on the back of these. I'll get to it 1 day.