Hello Everyone...Kinda long post here...bear with me please...Advice will be greatly appreciated...

Here's my plan...To take a 1985 6.9L I have in the barn and completely rebuild it and install a Banks Turbo System. I will NOT be installing a block heater.

My question is...What parts should I use other than the turbo system to strengthen the engine? I am speaking here soley of parts that have been weak or troublesome when the engine came from the factory.

I am not so worried about increasing factory torque or horsepower with internal parts as I believe the turbo system will do that for me. I just want to eliminate known factory weaknesses.

Thanks,

Pete

 

7.3l (or '87 up) rockers.
head studs if you want serious boost.
victor reinz gaskets.
the torque cam from Russ (no issues with the stock grind,but your there.now's the time.it's said to make a truck with 3.55's pull as if it she's got a set 4.10's. where you wont be running a wategated turbo,this could help compensate off the line.)
there's a couple for ya.

 

You forgot one your favorite mods XLT lol the electric fuel pump dont worry i got ya covered

 

oh yeah,that's a good one.a GOOD electric fuel pump though.otherwise it's a waste of $.had to learn something the hard way on my own.been cheating by copying everyone's experiences.couldn't handle the free ride anymore i guess.

 

The biggest concern with the 83-early 85 motors is the block heater. The casting is thinner around the block heater and the concentrated heat can crack the block over time.
Don't rule a block heater out though! There is another great option, check this out: JC Whitney Tank-type Engine Heaters Customer Ratings & Reviews - Top & Best Rated Products
I installed the biggest one they offer on my '65 F350 with 352 FE. The unit circulates the coolant through your entire engine. The heat is not concentrated on any area of the engine. The deroster blows HOT air as soon as you turn the key. The unit has its own thermostat, so no worries about over-heating anything.

I don't even use my block heater. Never have any cold-start issues even in the single digits or negatives, just need good glow plugs.

How serious are you going with the rebuild?
Overboard or good enough considering the budget?

 

I have an 84 and when i plug in the block heater i leave it for 10min and then unplug it for 15 then i plug it back in. i figure just giving it awhile for the heat to soak in id like to think it helps.

 

wasnt there someone who rebuilt a 6.9 to bad *** standards. who was that, they must have been smart or something lol.

 

Off the top of my head here's a few without doing a complete teardown/rebuild:

Heads: updated 6.9/7.3 87-up rocker assemblies, Inconol turbo exhaust valves, ARP 6.9 stud kit(folllowing the crucial torque steps upon assembly), Victor Reinz Head gaskets.

Block: Replace oil cooler o-rings & gaskets, new rear main seal & crank seal, Reseal oil pan (silicone sealent only NO cork gasket), use Motorcraft FL1995 filter, New valley pan/intake gasket, Motorcraft Thermostat, water pump,

Induction: Banks Wastegated Sidewinder turbo System, New CDR, New Motorcraft Beru Glowplugs (8), Updated glowplug control module and harness (from an 87-up),

Fuel System: IP, BB code injectors, Fuel return kit with Viton o-rings#111, New mechanical transfer pump(ex:Carter), fuel filter, replace stock water seperator with a new improved filter like a Racor,

Add-ons: 3G alternator and harness, Ford Grey Paint


Of course basics like new belts and hoses.
and when your all done throw it in and enjoy.
I'll add more if I think of anything else.

 

the valves are inconel, extreme duty valves and if you want to really press the limits, get new annodized pistons........ or made from unobtanium. hehe.

 

Hey Guys...Thanks for all the suggestions...I'm 55 years old and hope this engine will last till I die...We travel fulltime in our 5ver and just wanted a little more power when pulling the mountains etc...but we don't ever drive over 55 so I don't need to get real radical with the thing...just want it good and strong...u know better than factory...I know I could buy a new truck etc...but we operate on a no finance...no bill owing kinda lifestyle...we like to use our money for other things and not rack up debt.

BTW...We are leaving Washington State at the end of June...Going to Ohio to see her Mom...then to Texas to see my Mom...then to Arizona for awhile....then who knows where...so I have to get this done in the nest 4 months and "git her broke in"

Thanks again,

Pete

 

How many miles are on the engine?

For your needs, you could get away with just a basic overhaul but with ARP head studs.

You can handle an engine rebuild in 3 ways.

1: Pull the engine yourself and bring it to an automotive machine/engine shop. They can tear it down, machine it, and rebuild it so you can simply drop it right into your truck.
2: Tear it down yourself, number/label all parts, and bring everything down to the machine shop. They can machine the parts, rebuild the bottom end, and you can pick up a rebuilt bottom end (short block) with the heads rebuilt, but not installed.
3: Tear it down, drop it off, have them machine it, then you pick it up and assemble it yourself.

I would go with option #2 if I were in your shoes. It takes precise tools to assemble the engine, tools that I don't have and wouldn't use again after the engine build.

Stock rebuilt bottom end,
ARP head studs,
Victor Reinz head gaskets,
Rebuilt heads with 87-93 7.3 rocker arms (direct bolt in),
Victor Reinz valley pan,
'93 IDI Turbo 7.3 Injection pump with matched BB Injectors (find a local fuel injection shop and work with them...they'll get ya set up right and will be local for helping any issues you may have...my fuel shop is 1 town over and we're on very good terms ) ,
87-93 Glow plug system with brand new Motorcraft/Beru glow plugs (can't remember part number, check the sticky at the top of the page),
Aftermarket fuel/water seperator,
Ditch the stock block heater for an aftermarket tank-type unit.

Doing this, you adress the major issues of the 6.9:
-By running the tank-type heater, you avoid any cracking issues with the factory block heater
-The early style glow plug system "can" stick "on", resulting in burnt out glow plugs. The tips swell, when you pull the glow plug out, the tip can break off and fall in the head. Either fish it out with a shop vac and compressed air with that piston at TDC, or use a magnet, or you're pulling the cylinder head to retreive that tip!

This also addresses the minor issues of the 6.9:
-rocker arms (not necessarily a "weak" point, but the 7.3's are in fact stronger and are a bolt-in upgrade)
-ARP Head studs mean you can run up to about 16-18 psi of boost with a stock bottom end. (That much boost pumps up too much compression in the cylinders, the solution for more boost is to drop the compression ratio by milling the pistons down) The stock head bolts are said to be good for about 10-12 psi of boost before they stretch and the heads lift...resulting in failed head gaskets. If you install ARP head studs NOW, then you can always decide to run up to 16 psi LATER if you decide that more power makes you smile!

Here's the build thread from Dave S. His engine build is SAWEEET!
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...you-think.html

As the time gets closer I hope to follow his steps with my 6.9 rebuild for the '65. I'll be building a custom turbo setup though that will flow like a Powerstroke. Yep, that was Dave's idea too...so I can't take credit for that.

I got your PM about the engine heater, tomorrow I'll take pictures of the setup on my '65 after I shovel the 2 feet of snow off the hood and head to the RMV to get my license re-newed. I didn't know your license expires when you turn 21, that was 6 days ago! Ah well, at least I didn't get pulled over yet!